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  1. #1
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    Need advice for cutting ripstop and webbing

    I was planning on purchasing a soldering gun for cutting ripstop. I've seen this 100/140w unit for about $30. I know that's enough heat to cut ripstop, but what about webbing? Would I be better off spending $45 for a 200/260w unit or even a bit more ($55) for a 200/300w unit if I want to cut both ripstop and webbing? Are these even appropriate for 1" poly webbing or are scissors/knife and a lighter the preferred method? Would I be able to use the same tip on both ripstop and webbing?

    This hotknife would do both, but it's a bit pricey. The foot attachment is nice and would allow you to cut ripstop on any surface without having to worry about marking it, but it isn't really necessary if you choose your cutting surface carefully (glass or tempered hardboard). In the videos, they use the standard tip to cut both fabric and webbing, but this optional tip looks like it leaves a nicer edge on webbing. Has anyone used the Sailrite knife?
    Last edited by Spaceman; 08-13-2014 at 21:38.

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    Need advice for cutting ripstop and webbing

    Overkill. I use a 30w soldiering iron. It cuts ripstop as fast as you can flick snot or as fast as you can draw a pencil line - which ever analogy works best. If it's a soldering iron, and can fuse metal....it's hot enough to melt nylon. Just get one with a tiny tip.

    In my opinion for webbing a sharp knife and a lighter works best.

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    Do you use a metal/aluminum straightedge with your 30w iron? I've read in other posts that 30w may not be enough if you use a metal straightedge because much of the heat is transferred to the straightedge rather than the fabric. That's why I was looking at some of the higher wattage guns.

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    Need advice for cutting ripstop and webbing

    Oh i wasn't aware of others having trouble with it. I use a soldering iron used for circuit boards. Not sure of what type of metal though.. No brand. Similar to:
    The tiny tip is where the heat is focused. I've had nothing but success and it was bought at a cheap electronic stores for $5.

    It cuts and seals like a dream.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post
    Do you use a metal/aluminum straightedge with your 30w iron? I've read in other posts that 30w may not be enough if you use a metal straightedge because much of the heat is transferred to the straightedge rather than the fabric. That's why I was looking at some of the higher wattage guns.
    My experience is the 6' aluminum straight edges common in the states (which I use) will suck the heat out of low wattage irons.

    I use the same wattage gun as you linked with a tip similar to the Weller Plastic Cutting Tip with great results on nylon. I like the quick heat up/cool down of a gun over and iron as well.

    I found using it to cut webbing creates too much smoke to use indoors and just doesn't work as nicely as one would think. I use a ceramic knife on a wood cutting board for webbing and seal the ends with a lighter.

    I also use the gun with a rope cutting tip on nylon and polyester climbing rope....outdoors...lots of smoke, but worth it for the end results.

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    So you're saying I don't need to drop $1100 on one of these?


  7. #7
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    A rotary cutter for my rip stop and bic lighter works for me. I use a pair of scissors and a big lighter for my webbing.

    Since I will be rolling or folding ( depending on what you want to call it ) the edges of the rip stop and sewing it, I am not to worried if the edges are a little frayed.
    I am still 18 but with 52 years of experience !

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    I use a Weller gun with a thin cutting tip as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by gmcttr View Post
    I found using it to cut webbing creates too much smoke to use indoors and just doesn't work as nicely as one would think. I use a ceramic knife on a wood cutting board for webbing and seal the ends with a lighter.

    I also use the gun with a rope cutting tip on nylon and polyester climbing rope....outdoors...lots of smoke, but worth it for the end results.
    I agree on the smoke & irritating fumes.....though I usually put up with it in the basement shop if I'm only cutting a few bits of webbing. One big advantage of the gun vs melting with a lighter is that you can 'flatten' (aka 'sculpt') the melted end of the webbing if you will be putting it into a ladder fastener or cam buckle of some kind. Doing this with (even wetted) fingers on burning webbing can be painful -- don't ask!

  9. #9
    Senior Member Yojimbo's Avatar
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    I either use an old soldering iron or wood burning iron with the tip filed done to resemble a flat blade. My patterns are large sheets of bristle board paper. This doesn't pull the heat as some talk about with metal. Plus they are light weight and can be folded. The bladed edge also cuts thru webbing like melted butter. Usually the cutting is quick enough I don't even notice any smoke. When I can't find the iron I just use a candle. But never actually stick the webbing or rope close enough to actually catch flame. Again avoiding smoke. The heat will cause fibers to melt and pull back enough to fuse together.
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  10. #10
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    I use a pencil soldering iron with a 33 watt element and an aluminum straight edge with no problems as long as I let the soldering iron warm up. The one advantage of a soldering gun would be fast warm up, but the bulk would make it harder to control. The copper tips of both soldering irons and soldering guns can be hammered flat to make a knife edge, just be careful to only flatten the tip.

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