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  1. #1
    Senior Member 4estTrekker's Avatar
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    WWT for Bridge Hammock w/ Bug Net

    Howdy, all. I'd like to get a second netted bridge hammock for my wife/kids to use. I made myself one with a bug net and just don't have the gumption to do it again. I'd like to work a trade, if possible, for something along the lines of a JRB Bear Mountain or WBRR. If you've got one of these or something similar, let me know and perhaps we can work a fair trade. Thanks much!

  2. #2
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    What are you offering in trade?

    I have a new double layer RR, set up for 10 minutes, that I am thinking about posting for sale. I bought it to have as a back up to have one with a bug net while I work on my DIY. But its to narrow for me to get comfortable in.

  3. #3
    Senior Member 4estTrekker's Avatar
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    Thanks, Opie. When I get near my computer later this evening or early in the morn I will post some options, complete with descriptions and photos. I'm working on the fly with my iPad at the moment. Hope we can work a great trade!

  4. #4
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    Look forward to see whatcha got!!

    I do have a DIY bridge with no end caps and no net, just the body and suspension. Its not perfect as it was my first attempt. But I was able to salvage a 80" x 50" body out of it while using 43" spreader bars. Made out of a double layer Argon 1.6. Most of the hard work is done.

    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post1278683

  5. #5
    Senior Member 4estTrekker's Avatar
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    Opie, I really like the sound of that double layer WBRR! Here’s what I’d like to offer in trade to you (or another with similar hammock, should we not be able to strike a deal).

    I am a hobby blade smith and enjoy making custom blades. I would enjoy making such a blade to your specs in exchange for the hammock. I volunteer at a local historic fort and get to spend time swinging a hammer in the forge (see pics below), so many of the examples I’ll post have that bent to their finish. This is sometimes referred to as “brute de forge”. However, your knife doesn’t have to have a rustic look to it; we can work out the details and finish of your blade. Here’s the scoop:

    You will decide on the type of knife you want and, within certain parameters, the details of the build. This will include the profile, dimensions/desired finished weight, finish (forge finish, belt finish, hand-sanded), handle material (wood, stabilized wood, antler, bone, micarta, etc.), sheath material (leather, Kydex), etc.. We’ll mesh your wishes with my abilities and supply and VIOLA! You’ll be one hammock lighter AND have yourself your very own custom knife.

    I will make three successive posts to this thread with some example pieces. All of the blades shown are forged from carbon steel (1080, W2, 5160 and the like), have been saltwater etched to reduce surface corrosion, and are convex ground. I find this edge to be the stoutest, easiest to sharpen in the field, and equipped for most cutting tasks. Nearly all have been differentially heat-treated, rendering the cutting edge harder than the spine/tang of the knife. This makes for a tougher (and safer) blade overall. A variety of sheaths are available, depending on the knife design and sheath material used. These include blade-up and blade-down sheaths for neck knives and vertical or horizontal carries for belt knives.

    Here’s a couple pictures of the forge where a few of these knives were born.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 4estTrekker; 06-30-2014 at 09:20.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 4estTrekker's Avatar
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    FRICTION FOLDERS

    These are designed after some early American examples. They are finished with stabilized rosewood and tiger maple handles, respectively. The “mechanism” and construction is friction fit with hand-hammered brass pins. Once opened, they have the safety of a fixed-blade knife, in that they can’t close up on you.

    2-3.jpg2-1.jpg2-2.jpg2-4.jpg2-5.jpg2-6.jpg
    Last edited by 4estTrekker; 06-30-2014 at 09:33.

  7. #7
    Senior Member 4estTrekker's Avatar
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    BELT KNIVES

    These blades have a bit of forge finish showing here and there. They all have full tangs except for the open-frame piece, which is patterned after early Viking concepts. The first knife has a forged-in finger guard.

    3-1.jpg3-3.jpg3-2.jpg3-4.jpg3-5.jpg3-6.jpg
    Last edited by 4estTrekker; 06-30-2014 at 09:28.

  8. #8
    Senior Member 4estTrekker's Avatar
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    NECKERS & CAPERS

    Here is a myriad of little guys. The goofy one with the twisted handle is called a ringed bird and trout and is used for both fly fishing and bird hunting.

    4-2.jpg4-1.jpg4-5.jpg4-6.jpg4-3.jpg4-4.jpg4-7.jpg4-8.jpg
    Last edited by 4estTrekker; 06-30-2014 at 09:31.

  9. #9
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    That is a mighty tempting offer. I do appreciate a quality knife, but I'm afraid I wouldn't appreciate the trade as much as you would.......

    But now that I think about it, I could use a rope knife. Some utilitarian that will keep an edge (relatively well) being used on used, often times dirty, rope up to 1.5" diameter. 6-8" or so blade with the handle set high as I am usually cutting on a flat surface and need to retain the space for my fingers so I can get full pressure on the cutting edge and keep my fingers off the surface. Do you have any examples of something like what I described?

  10. #10
    Senior Member opie's Avatar
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    LIke one of these, but with a larger blade.




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