just ordered my bridge hammock making supplies, is there anything I should watch for?

[The LumberJack]

So I just ordered 10 yards of 1.9oz ripstop, 10 yards of No-See-Um mesh, 15 yards of 1/2" nylon webbing, 25 yards of 1" nylon webbing, 4 18" 0.625" aluminum tent poles, and a lot more #5 coil zipper than I needed to make a three-way zipper on both sides of the bug net. It will be a double layered hammock with both ends open on the bottom layer, so that I can shove a pad into it, also because I might grow yet, already being 6' and 180lbs at only age 16. The main reason I ordered the stuff to do it myself is because I don't like the bug net designs from warbonnet, grizz, and any other manufacturer, they all seem too low and "minimalist". I also ordered the DIY parts so that I would have left overs for stuff sacks, pack covers, etc. My total came out to about $205, but projects like this are more about the build and the satisfaction than the budget. Now is when I ask you, "Is there anything I should watch out for, and be careful of when making my first DIY Bridge Hammock?" also I will post pictures of what my project looks like as it goes further. I plan on ordering a Warbonnet SuperFly tarp as soon as I finish the hammock. It may seem like I have a deep wallet, but I have been waiting to build my own hammock since I watched my first video of Shugemery use one virtually in my back yard, That was over 4 years ago. A big thanks goes out to Shug because he inspired me from the day he hiked the Minnesota, Superior Hiking Trail.
Oh and everything that I bought was ordered directly from Quest Outfitters, they do have a very nice website, and very good for the DIYer.

[Boston]

Welcome to the DIY world.

Here's my one tip: Avoid Quest if at all possible. Some times they are the only convenient source for the materials you need, but if you can find it at DIY Gear Supply, or elsewhere, buy there - usually the prices are lower, sometime by 50% or more.

[The Old Boot]

I did my own bridge, basically following Grizz, cause he already had the engineering done. I changed up the bug net design because, like you, I wanted it way far away from my face. I left only one end open for pad insertion, couldn't see the need for both ends.

Parts of mine are way over-engineered but better that than under.

My advice, watch the videos that are available multiple times and then watch them again.

One thing I did that I don't regret is putting a row of 1" grosgrain between the hammock and the zipper and between the noseeum and the zipper. It's made the connection much more stable than I figure it would be without and I don't have to worry about catching the zipper on either fabric. My netting is sewn in at the foot so that it can be unzipped and put away if the darn bugs here ever decide to quit..

Willing to mentor if you need it.

[stevebo]

Good luck with your project! The bridge is a great design (we owe grizz alot for that one!) I have 2 pieces of advice -------1. what I did on mine was make the entire hammock, including the end caps, out of one piece of material. Its pretty easy---just extend the ends out in the shape of a semi circle, (or even easier a triangle) and sew a draw string into the end. When you set up your hammock, just tighten the drawstring (use small diameter elastic cord like they sell at wallmart) put a cordlock in the middle, that way when you cinch up the cord you have an adjustable end cap! Lots of advantages here---you can experiment with different length spreader bars with out worryiing about ripping out the end cap. (not my origional idea---some one on the forum did the same thing--works great!
2. When I made my dog bones out of amsteel, I basically made them like whoopie slings. I liked this because if your hammock is slightly out of rig due to the sewing, or when you cut the cloth, you can adjust the dogbone lengths and fine tune it. Again, works very well! PM me if you need any help (Ive made several!)

The bridge is actually pretty easy to make once you wade thru all the jargon and math (curves etc) Are you making it grizz style, or more like the eureka chry;salis?

Also, if you look at the warbonnet ridgerunner, at first glance it looks like the foot end is cut narrower than the head. Actually, its made out of a piece of cloth the same width at both ends----a smaller spreader bar at the foot end makes it narrower and adds some stability------simply brilliant!

[ezhiker]

[QUOTE=The LumberJack;1278339]So I just ordered 10 yards of 10.9oz ripstop,
Are you really using 10.9 oz ripstop for a double layer bridge? or was that a typo?

[opie]

After just getting my feet wet not only with the sewing machine, but with making a bridge, here is what I learned.....

First and foremost, dont try to sew the loops into the webbing until after you get the webbing sewn in, rolled and sewn in again. One option that I tried, but didn't like, was to sew loops on after the webbing is rolled and sewn in. What I did was left the webbing long past the ends by 4". This accomplished 2 things.... It allowed me to make a loop in the end only having to sew through 2 layers of webbing rather than 3. It allowed me to make the loops equal distance side to side and end to end. I still have not gotten the knack for the fabric ends of my bridge to come out equal on both sides. So leave the webbing long so you can make adjustments and have your connection points equal. If your webbing loops are not equal length side to side, you will miss load the hammock and suspension triangles.

Make sure you alot fabric for any edge finishing you are going to do.

Use lots of pins. I did not pin my edges as I was sewing the webbing in, and I think that may be one of the reasons my edges are never equal. But I did go slow, only a few inches at a time making sure the webbing is rolled tight. My next one Im going to pin everything and see if it makes a difference.

[The LumberJack]

I did not have the ability to look in any hobby stores, but I found that compared to the prices I found anywhere else on the internet, quest was pretty reasonable, not to mention I was already buying the tent spreader bars there so I just got it all from them to save on shipping. Plus it was free because I spent more than 175$ but I got all kinds of extra fabric.

[The LumberJack]

Actually stevebo, I was watching HikingDad's video on youtube and he makes a triangle on the end and then cuts a fish mouth out, he then sews the two "fish jaws" together, making an endcap.

[The LumberJack]

oh haha, Im sorry 10.9oz would be some HEAVY stuff. I am actually using 1.9oz ripstop nylon.

[The LumberJack]

First and foremost, dont try to sew the loops into the webbing until after you get the webbing sewn in, rolled and sewn in again. One option that I tried, but didn't like, was to sew loops on after the webbing is rolled and sewn in. What I did was left the webbing long past the ends by 4". This accomplished 2 things.... It allowed me to make a loop in the end only having to sew through 2 layers of webbing rather than 3. It allowed me to make the loops equal distance side to side and end to end. I still have not gotten the knack for the fabric ends of my bridge to come out equal on both sides. So leave the webbing long so you can make adjustments and have your connection points equal. If your webbing loops are not equal length side to side, you will miss load the hammock and suspension triangles.

Actually when I first started watching DIY videos I was wondering why in the world someone would not do just this? I recently bought rabbit furs, canvas, and thinsulate to make bomber hats, which was successful, but after making my first 3 I decided that was enough because if the material did not bind and break my needle, It still took 5-6 hours to make sure all of the layers where correctly placed as I sewed. I then learned that you always want to sew through as few layers as possible.