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  1. #281
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    TeeDee,

    Why wouldn't the scarab work instead of the single pass lock (single Marlin splice)?

    - MacEntyre
    Don't understand the question, but I'll answer what I think the question is.

    I think the single pass lock is more secure, just my suspicion based on no evidence whatsoever.

    Having said that, I think the difference in security is small and reflects OrionFyre's question about the scarab pulling off the end. See below.

    As far as convenience, I prefer the scarab nacrabiner as easier for me to use. The trouble I have with the regular nacrabiner (which I assume is what you meant by "single pass lock") is using the "lock". I find the lock hard to open and once open it tends to pull closed unless I use 2 hands to hold it open. My main use is to connect my version of the SLS to my rope huggers. In that use I need to hold the single pass lock nacrabiner with one hand and open it with the other hand. If I then grab the loop of the Whoopie Sling on my SLS to insert the nacrabiner through the loop, pulling on the nacrabiner to insert it, the nacrabiner tends to pull closed. I am then caught in a recurring comedy of opening the nacrabiner with 2 hands, then using one hand to bring the Whoopie Sling loop up while holding the nacrabiner with one hand and pulling the nacrabiner closed in the process. I have to be really quick in bringing the Whoopie Loop up, to get the nacrabiner inserted through the loop before the nacrabiner closes. The scarab variant of the nacrabiner really shines here, since the scarab doesn't move and it is very easy to then insert the scarab nacrabiner through the loop, hook over the lanyard knot and move the scarab to lock.

    I keep a few of both variant on hand since I "think" there may be situations where I like my perceived security of the single pass lock nacrabiner.

    Of course, my perception will probably change as I gain more experience with the scarab locking variant.

    Quote Originally Posted by MacEntyre View Post
    Of course! I didn't think of that.

    I never would do something like that...

    Still, the bend at the end would tend to resist a little more than the bight.
    The scarab can pull off the end, but it would not be easy depending on how tight the Solomon Bar was tied. If tied so tight that the scarab is hard to move, then the "little" extra width at the end is going to prevent the scarab from coming off except under very heavy duress. If the scarab is tied loosely, then it can be pulled off easily, but then the scarab is probably going to be sliding when you don't want it to slide. At those "in-between" states, where the scarab is hard to move, pulling off the end is not going to happen without your definitely knowing it has happened.

    One note: I have found the scarab to very useful for 2 other purposes:

    1. marking a position on a rope. I put a scarab on the loop of my Whoopie Slings on my suspension. I adjust and attach one end of my suspension to one tree, attach to the second tree with the Whoppie sling loop pulled way bigger than needed. Then I grab the movable side of the loop and pull the suspension real tight and slide the scarab on the loop up against the tree hugger to "mark" this position. Then I can pull the tail of the loop to make the loop smaller until the scarab is approximately 3" from the hugger. This sets my suspension sag angle. No further adjustment needed. The scarab here serves another purpose: it keeps me from pulling the Whoopie Sling loop closed and forming a termination splice.
    2. "locking" a spliced fixed eye. Sometimes I need to "lock" another rope in a fixed eye. For this I use a lanyard knot or a cord lock or some kind of "bump" in the rope. Then slide a scarab down the eye to change the size of the eye and "lock" the eye.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  2. #282
    Senior Member lonetracker's Avatar
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    ok i learned how to do the solomon bar.another neat knot.you can tie it so it does not slide off the nacra by starting on the loop side(loop of the nacra)start the solomon by having the cord go between the strands of the nacra,as opposed to under both strands of the nacra.then tie solomon as normal.it will not come off the nacra now.

  3. #283
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    Lanyard/Diamond knot question.

    How well and tightly do you have to dress the knot?

  4. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chingyul View Post
    Lanyard/Diamond knot question.

    How well and tightly do you have to dress the knot?
    The question is are you a "knot snob" or are you just getting the job done?

  5. #285
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chingyul View Post
    Lanyard/Diamond knot question.

    How well and tightly do you have to dress the knot?
    I try to dress the knot well. I also leave tails so that when you put load on the knot the first time, and it draws up some more, you don't pull then ends thru and have the knot fail.

    Best regards,
    Knot Snob
    Knotty
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  6. #286
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    This seems as fitting as a place anywhere.

    A guy I made a hammock for doesn't particularly care for the whoopie slings I provided, doesn't trust them (even though I weigh almost twice as much as he )

    Would a series of these 'lanyard' knots in amsteel provide good and strong enough anchor points for a hook to latch onto?

  7. #287
    Senior Member angrysparrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrionFyre View Post
    Would a series of these 'lanyard' knots in amsteel provide good and strong enough anchor points for a hook to latch onto?
    That should be fine, although amusing. Tying knots into Amsteel de-rates the strength far far more than splicing.

    Your friend should read up here on the forum...
    “I think that when the lies are all told and forgot the truth will be there yet. It dont move about from place to place and it dont change from time to time. You cant corrupt it any more than you can salt salt.” - Cormac McCarthy

  8. #288
    Senior Member TeeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OrionFyre View Post
    This seems as fitting as a place anywhere.

    A guy I made a hammock for doesn't particularly care for the whoopie slings I provided, doesn't trust them (even though I weigh almost twice as much as he )

    Would a series of these 'lanyard' knots in amsteel provide good and strong enough anchor points for a hook to latch onto?
    As Angrysparrow wrote the knots derate the rope.

    Having said that I use lanyard knots on my suspension. Easy way to "hook" into fixed eyes without hardware. In my use the Lanyard knots are only used with AS-78 rated at almost 3,000 lbsf, so even at 50% derating, I'm okay. However, if I figure that Schneiderlein's testing of the nacrabiner with the Lanyard knot yielded failure at 175%. That's double line, so probably the single line would be approximately 87%. Either way I'm confident.

    Using Lanyard knots I have finally been able to completely eliminate all hardware from my suspension and hang the suspension and then the hammock from the suspension. With all hardware removed, my AS-78 (2 Whoopie Slings) and Lash-It (ridge line) suspension comes in at 2.25 oz and my Dynaglide (2 Whoopie Slings) and Lash-It (ridge line) suspension comes in at 0.90 oz. Combined with my AS-78 rope huggers, my total suspension weight comes in at 3.9 oz or 2.5 oz. Still working on my zero weight backpacking hammock stand though - need that so I can go above tree line.
    Those who sacrifice freedom for safety, have neither.

    Do not dig your grave with your teeth. (Unknown)

  9. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by angrysparrow View Post
    That should be fine, although amusing. Tying knots into Amsteel de-rates the strength far far more than splicing.

    Your friend should read up here on the forum...
    thanks Angrysparrow and TeeDee. Believe me, I showed him how strong the buries were. put one around a tree limb, a steel bar through the bottom loop and me and my dad stood on either end of the bar. that's gotta be an easy 500 pounds right there.

    Well now I've got something to do in the morning after I get back from work and try to get to sleep in my crappy BED

  10. #290
    Senior Member Frawg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaydweight View Post
    I'm wondering what length of amsteel 7/64 I should use to make my own nacrabiners. I want them to be the same size as the ones pictured above in this post.
    My apologies for missing this earlier. IIRC, I started with about 16" - 18" of line to make the nacrabiner in the picture. IME, the knot uses up about 6" of line when using 7/64" AmSteel Blue. Toss in another inch or two for the tails for about 7" - 8" of extra line. Then add 4 times the length of the distance you want to span, i.e., the length of the nacrabiner under load.

    For example --

    Suppose you want a closed shackle to span 2". There are 4 segments of line, plus a little curvature, spanning that 2" so that would account for 8" of line plus a smidge. Add 6" for the knot and another 1"-2" for the tails and your 2" shackle needs close to 16" of line.

    Bottom line: 4 x the loaded lenth of the nacrabiner plus 8" for 7/64" AmSteel Blue.
    - Frawg

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