Pipe Stand Mods

[cougarmeat]

I looked for the original tread on the Pipe Stand but couldn't find it (maybe it qualifies for a "sticky"). So here are my mods:

In Pipe1 photo you can see I used a "T" instead of an elbow at the top. That makes it easier to hang suspension lines, especially if you use Atlas/Python straps. I also put tape every three inches starting at fifty inches from the ground. That way the suspension height is easy to hit per the hammock hang calculator.

In Pipe2 you'll see I made it 15 ft long by using three 5 ft sections. That's because bridge hammocks need more space. I was told that the WB Ridge Runner is often set with 13 ft between apex points.

In Pipe3 I added 1x3's to the base and they were a bit too narrow. 1x4's would have been better. I also added caps on the ends of the base. The caps are so it wouldn't rock on the T joint if that was all there was. The boards are to distribute the weight so the joint connectors wouldn't dig into the floor if the stand was used indoors - like for an indoor demo.

Pipe4 shows I capped the top too. I painted the pipe with a reddish primer, then a "tree" brown. I taped over the threads and back on the pipe a little, to keep paint off of there - figuring I'll touch all that up if the stand works.

In addition to paint touch up, I need to add one or two more height markers on the vertical pipe and I might even just write the inches on the marker tape with a felt pen. I also want to put some strong duct tape type product on the pipe were I'll be grabbing it by hand. I put the caps on with a wrench but the other joints are hand tightened.

The biggest concern is the "racking" motion - the movement of the hammock parallel to the horizontal top pipe. It doesn't take much motion in that direction to feel like a lot. I'm putting a lot of faith on the top T joints.

I also have a 2 ft pipe I can use in place of one of the 5 ft sections. With the extra distance of the joints, that would bring the width to about 13 ft so I could still us it with a bridge hammock; just that the apex of the suspension lines would be right up to the pipe.

[cougarmeat]

Replacing a 5 ft section with the 2 ft section reduced the racking motion quite a bit. But I didn't get my 13 ft. The pipes were cut to specified widths which included the treading. So some of the distance I gained with the joints was lost in the threading to those joints. I ended up with 12 ft 4 in. I'd think that is still good enough to demo a bridge hammock - or I can just have a 3 ft section cut.

[cougarmeat]

Moderator, feel free to move this if you feel it belongs more in the DIY forum. I put it here because it involves suspending a hammock. But it is not "hammock suspension". I couldn't find the other pipe stand posts to see what forum they were in.

[CamoDeafie82]

I'm thinking you could increase strength on all the T joints by having gussets made out of lumber or pipes and attaching via metal straps or bolts? I mean, what I can see as a problem is that your 90 degree joints is not braced, and if each of them gets braced by a diagonal gusset of some sort, then you would either reduce or eliminate the racking motions on 2 axis?

EDIT: with two beefy gussets at the corners of the top rail and verticals, you could put holes in them for large U bolts to strap your hammock to, and using U bolts to the pipe sections, you would be able to eliminate the racking motion on the top part, and for the sides, more gussets would be a good thing...could use 2 pieces of 1/2" to 1" plywood panels cut into a right triangle and put the long edge on the bottoms and use U bolts into the plywood... I will be sketching up what I am envisioning for you to base on

[CamoDeafie82]

OK here is a rough sketch for the gussets

Pipe clamps/straps would be used for the 90 degree joints at the vertical and top rail, while U-bolts would be used for the plywood panel gussets on top of a larger board to support the system without crushing the floors.

DSCN1790.jpg

[cougarmeat]

Thank you for those ideas. The bottom (foot) is pretty stable for normal use. When I reduced the top bar length from 15 ft to 12 ft, it tightened things up quite a bit. I'll consider your top reinforcement because a failure there brings the pipe down on top of me. But as it is, this basic design has been used successfully by several in the Forum.

[Busky2]

Two eye bolts per end, one in top one in side then use turnbuckle with cable and cable clamps to tighten things up? Or 1" x 1" angle iron that would be thru bolted at top and sides the sides being eyes to attach tarp or whatever

[Zilla]

That looks like a very sturdy set up,nice job !

[cougarmeat]

Moderator - from what I've seen, it looks like this would be better placed in the DIY forum. If you feel the same, please move it there. Thank you. Paul