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  1. #1
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    Underquilt air gaps

    I am working on an under quilt for a custom asym hammock I just finished making. I'm kind of new to this. I've read that air gaps between the quilt and the hammock will result in cold spots, which sounds bad. However, in experimenting I'm finding it particularly difficult to come up with a shape the will hug the hammock everywhere.

    A lot of designs I see (KAQ for instance) seem like they cannot possibly be eliminating all gaps.

    How critical is this and are there some tricks (shaping or design) that might help me?

  2. #2
    Senior Member te-wa's Avatar
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    i found that a 2/3 or 3/4 length UQ will solve the issue of gaps at my lower legs. i had tried to solve an issue with lower leg gaps that could not be totally removed lest i had too tight a fit under the torso. maybe its me, maybe its my hammock. full length quilts work for many a hanger, but i just prefer the shorter, no fuss design of a 2/3 length.

    in a philosophy targeted at my UL principles of packing and shelter, the small ccf pad i use under my lower legs takes care of insulation, and works as a sit pad, and works as my pack frame in some instances but in many cases its a multi-use item that functions very well for all of its intended purposes. i have to strap it across the top of my ULA Conduit and its a minor pain to hike through brushy terrain so id rather not place it there... so im going to mod the conduit to have a bungee system across the front, keeping the pad vertical. Also, if i had to go to ground it would work as a torso pad, down to freezing. (its about 24x30x3/8)

    you may find if you use a full UQ that the center-foot end drawstring feature (found on Jacks R Better quilts) will help you keep that footbox gap-free. It worked great for my Hudson River UQ.

    ask Geuro about his custom differential UQ for his HH hammock. It looks really cool! (or should I say warm)

  3. #3
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    An underquilt acts differently when you are actually inside the hammock. Shock cord suspension allows the quilt to move with you. So if there seem to be gaps, get inside and you'll feel cold spots if there are gaps, or warmth if there is not. I have JRB quilts and they work very well indeed.

  4. #4
    Senior Member thecrumb's Avatar
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    I finally slept with my new KAQ Friday. It wasn't really that cool low 60's but I was very comfy.

    The quilt was a bit odd to get used to - it wasn't like being wrapped up in a bag. I woke up a few times at night and really didn't notice the quilt until I moved it around and then I could really feel how cool it actually was!

    Only thing that got chilly was my feet (wasn't wearing any socks!)

    This weekend will be a better test - headed to the mountains for a 4 day weekend - temps I think are supposed to be in the 50s at night.

    Jim

  5. #5
    Senior Member Knotty's Avatar
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    Is a KAQ easier, cheaper, smaller, lighter or warmer than the HHSS?

    Not a loaded question, just curious.

    I have a SS and I've been fine down to mid 30's with the addition of a space blanket on top of the OCF pad.
    Last edited by Knotty; 05-26-2009 at 11:09.
    Knotty
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lori View Post
    I have JRB quilts and they work very well indeed.
    Are the JRB quilts very fitted or do they rely on suspension to fit them?

    Seems like this is the case for KAQ. Some fitting to get close then suspension for tweaks... Is that the right coarse?

    Also, how large does a void have to be before it become a "cold spot". Is full contact necessary or just close?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merganser View Post
    Are the JRB quilts very fitted or do they rely on suspension to fit them?

    Also, how large does a void have to be before it become a "cold spot". Is full contact necessary or just close?
    JRB quilts are rectangular unless you get the Mt Washington with the differential cut baffles. You are able to customize fit using draw cords - there is an end mod for a center draw cord for the foot end that works well to eliminate gapping. I experienced this last weekend when I forgot to clip the center up and my feet were cold.

    I don't really know how close it has to be - I just know gapping by feeling a cold spot. My usual remedy is to reach out and tighten a draw cord while I'm still in the hammock until the spot disappears. (Yay, Blackbird full length zipper!)

  8. #8
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    Thanks lori, that helps.

    I was coming to the conclusion that while you could contour the heck out of an under quilt variations in how you're laying could cause issues. Too much shaping could result in a void in the worst place, right under your back.

    It seems that slightly less contoured shape that is drawn up with a flexible suspension of some sort would be more immune to that. The center cord on the foot end sounds interesting. That is where I notice the most trouble, the side opposite me feet really pulls up there when I'm in the hammock.

    BTW, my DIY hammock is pretty much a BB clone, with a few planned differences. A full length zipper was not one of them.

  9. #9
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    This should help you visualize it: http://jacksrbetter.com/End%20Cord%20Mod.htm

    You are basically making a hole in the center of the cord channel, attaching a biner, and drawing the cord up and out from the center rather than using the cord locks on the corners of the quilt.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Merganser's Avatar
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    Yup, I can totally see how that could help. That center cord would allow you to adjust both sides independently. Thanks again.

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