I'm getting ready to redo my living room and thought I would add hammock hooks in a couple of places. Any ideas on what kind of anchors I'd need or ways to make them less noticeable.
I'm getting ready to redo my living room and thought I would add hammock hooks in a couple of places. Any ideas on what kind of anchors I'd need or ways to make them less noticeable.
I drilled into the studs and installed some fat eyescrews, which must be beefy enough since they never dumped me on the floor. Guess you could paint them and hang some kind of decoration, candle, or whatnot from them.
I use I-bolts screwed into the center of the wall studs.
Pre drill a pilot hole then screw the I-bolts all the way into the stud, (flush with the wall). I use this setup in a couple of rooms and never have had any issues.
You can use shadow boxes or a box self to cover it...
Eyebolts fit in nicely, so long as the rest of your furnishings are Early Dorm. If not, you may meet some resistance. Check with some place like West Marine, and look for pad eyes in brushed stainless. They will still stick out, but will be more likely to get by your code enforcement officer.
Dave
"Loneliness is the poverty of self; solitude is the richness of self."~~~May Sarton
I'm new to hammocks but have been reading a bunch on this site. You guys are too much thanks and keep it coming
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Last edited by Duffy; 10-08-2013 at 18:26.
Something hidden. Go and find it. Go, and look behind the Ranges. Something lost behind the Ranges. Lost and waiting for you . . . Go! - Rudyard Kipling
make sure you hang from the correct angle. i hung from ceiling joist because of the lack of distance needed. i tried the wall studs at eye level, but saw the studs wanted to cave in because the hammock was suspensed too tightly
have safe
be fun
Ok I finally got off my butt and did a video of my set up. Hope this helps:
After much reading and research (mostly right here on HF), I installed my indoor hooks today.
I was originally going to put an eye screw in, like many have mentioned, but was just too afraid that a large diameter screw would crack the 2x4 stud, especially if not perfectly centered. I followed the advice of others and got some structural screws (SPAX @ HomeDepot) that are smaller but stronger.
I made sure I found dead center on the stud I wanted and made sure the hardware is a little off vertical so the screws are not as likely to find the same grain and split the wood. Between the windows are four 2x4s nailed togethers with a 2x10 header spanning the windows, plywood outside and a bottom plate. As long as the wood of the target stud holds together, can easily hold 1,000lbs perpendicular to wall (out) and 600 parallel (down). Mounted high enough that curtains cover the hardware when not hanging.
The door is to a closet and has 2 studs nailed together and attached to a top and bottom plate as sell as the header over the door. Not quite as solid, but easily repairable if necessary. Any problems and I'll drill completely through and use a bolt with a 2x6 behind the wall (inside the closet) spreading the load. Not hidden, but not very noticeable. You could paint it a matching color and hide it even more.
After all this thinking and planning, look what I did! Make sure you pay attention to which bag you grab your 'biners out of...the climbing bag NOT the gear bag. 15 seconds into the first load test I saw them straightening out! and bailed out onto the floor. Probably worse than if I just fell!
I've bounced with my 260lbs in the hammock and it appears solid as can be.
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