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  1. #1

    Catch-All Suspension

    Looking to update my suspension, in order of priority:

    #1: Minimize setup/adjustment/takedown time.
    #2: Minimize bulk.
    #3: Modularity.
    #4: Minimize weight (but not at the expense of other goals).

    My current suspension consists solely of two 8' lengths of 1" climbing-spec tubular webbing (94g/3.3oz each). No other hardware besides the heavy ss S-hooks tied into the hammock ends (stock Grand Trunk UL). It works, but it's slow, bulky and does not allow for on-the-fly adjustment. Furthermore, I need to tie a [water knot] end loop at each end, which–even making the smallest possible 1 to 1.5" loops with very little slack–eliminates three[!] feet of webbing! Indeed, I've run out in the field and had to use two hammock's worth of webbing to pitch only one hammock. This is clearly not ideal.

    What I'm interested in putting together:

    1) Ditching the stock S-hooks and cordage in favor of Amsteel continuous loops.
    2) Whoopie sling with a whoopie hook on the fixed eye connect to continuous loops; the adjustable eye contains a safety bead.
    3) Adj. eye of w.sling fed into a biner which is clove hitched to a 10' polyester tree strap (no clips or other hardware at end-loop of the strap).

    I'm favoring having the w.hook on the fixed eye for two reasons. (1) To allow for the possibility of the adjustable end of the w.sling to fit over larger hardware, such as Dutch buckles. (2) To keep the w.tail under the rainfly (even though the w.hook also functions as a water break).

    I feel this setup would allow for pitching in tight quarters (ditch the whoopie slings and just use straps) and also when the trunks are large and/or far apart (slings + straps).

    Does anyone see anything unreasonable with this setup? Any comments, suggestions?

  2. #2
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Having a hard time understanding the advantage of whoopie hooks on the fixed eye. Seems to work great on the adjustable loop.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Mouseskowitz's Avatar
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    Sounds like you've done your homework. My only question is why the biner and clove hitch vs marlin spike hitch? It seems like you could drop quite a few grams there. I use graphite arrow shafts with my MSH. I haven't put them on the scale yet, but I'm not sure if they'd even register.

  4. #4
    Senior Member MAD777's Avatar
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    Catch-All Suspension

    Sounds like a sound plan to me!

    Unless you have huge trees, you can probably reduce the length of tree straps. I use 5' which will go around an 18" diameter tree. If you wanted to go with a Marlin spike, you could ditch the heavy biners and simply pass the free end if the strap through the looped end around the tree, or use Ditch clips for more convenience at very little weight and bulk penalty.
    Mike
    "Life is a Project!"

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by SilvrSurfr View Post
    Having a hard time understanding the advantage of whoopie hooks on the fixed eye. Seems to work great on the adjustable loop.
    You may have missed my explanation in my super long-winded post... (1) I've heard people complain about Dutch buckle clearance on the fixed eye; (2) I prefer the tail to be under the rainfly to act as a primary water stop.

    Mouseskowitz, MAD777:

    I prefer a biner for personal reasons. I know I'm crazy but I like the added security of the biner compared to the marlinspike. Plus, it makes it so I can't forget my suspension since I use the biners to latch my camp/water shoes to the outside of my pack.

    Quote Originally Posted by MAD777 View Post
    Unless you have huge trees, you can probably reduce the length of tree straps. I use 5' which will go around an 18" diameter tree.
    I'm gonna pitch where I've run out of webbing before and cut my 10 footers down to size. Just didn't want to be stuck too small again!
    Last edited by Sabatier; 04-17-2013 at 00:33. Reason: No can make English coherent sentence

  6. #6
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sabatier View Post
    You may have missed my explanation in my super long-winded post... (1) I've heard people complain about Dutch buckle clearance on the fixed eye; (2) I prefer the tail to be under the rainfly to act as a primary water stop.
    I know you have big trees in CA, but that seems like a heavy suspension with Dutch Buckles, carabiners and whoopie hooks. With the Dutch all-in-one suspension, you could eliminate carabiners and Dutch buckles:



    For short distances, you could eliminate the whoopie sling and hang continuous loops on MSH or Dutch buckles.

    Sure looks like you're prepared for any contingency.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by SilvrSurfr View Post
    I know you have big trees in CA, but that seems like a heavy suspension with Dutch Buckles, carabiners and whoopie hooks. With the Dutch all-in-one suspension, you could eliminate carabiners and Dutch buckles:

    For short distances, you could eliminate the whoopie sling and hang continuous loops on MSH or Dutch buckles.

    Sure looks like you're prepared for any contingency.
    SilvrSurfr, thanks again for chiming in. Yeah... trees are an issue here. Either there's no trees (like Joshue "Tree" Nat'l Park or other desert parks), the trees are huge (anywhere above 7000ft [pic below], which is the minimum elevation to beat 100 deg F+ heat in late Spring through early Fall), or the trees are sparse (say around 4000ft [pic below]). Below 4000ft is out of the question...to much poison oak.

    Regarding the suspension, I'm not planning on using Dutch hooks, but wanted to allow for it--thus, wanting the adjustable end on the upstream/toward tree suspension. I'd be using biners for that function anyway. That's why I see it as a catch-all suspension. Regarding the biners..I always have them on me anyway so I'm not bringing extra kit there; furthermore, they're a great water break. Indeed, the suspension I want to put together is very similar to Dutch's all-in-one using whoopie hooks, only with the whoopie hook reversed and the biner in place of the Lark's head. Good observation!

    For funsies, a couple contrasting photos of SoCal tree size/density...


    4000 ft. Chapparal: sparse trees; smaller diameter, very far apart.


    7000 ft. Pine forest: more trees; larger diameter; not super dense but workable.

  8. #8
    joe_guilbeau's Avatar
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    I took a long length of Amsteel Gray 7/64th and tied a taut line hitch at the end to secure to trees after a series of cow hitches.

    http://youtu.be/Dm-aiNaalAU

    So the adjustment is putting in enough butterfly alpine knots (reduces 1,200 lb static line strength of the Amsteel to about 33% or 400 lbs.)



    I use a Petzel 29 Gram 22Kn rated climbing carabiner to attach the gathered end to ALL of the loops left in the rope, so if one loop gives, it only moves 3 inches to the next alpine loop that is already attached to the carabiner.



    So, to put another way I place ALL of the alpine butterfly loops on the carabiner and "let out" only what I need to get the correct hang. The rest of the loops are fitted onto the carabiner.

    Guess I will have to take a pic for illustration purposes.

  9. #9
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    that YouTube was in Portuguese. btw
    I like the idea of keeping the line on the carbiner then use what's needed.

    ya huge trees in CA. I feel bad using dogbones to extend tree straps
    my post doesn't help the thread much just want to chime in that this thread is interesting.
    ciao

  10. #10
    Senior Member ninjahamockman's Avatar
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    I would not use rope that really hurts the bark on trees. Try using webbing.
    Bacon and Camping makes me happy.

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