OMG, I never thought my simple question would yield so much information as to create more work. Now, I have to learn splicing and knots and stuff. Holy crap! Better get busy searching for threads of reference.
OMG, I never thought my simple question would yield so much information as to create more work. Now, I have to learn splicing and knots and stuff. Holy crap! Better get busy searching for threads of reference.
I wonder how light weight you could get with a hammock made of dyneema.
I have recently re-read this. Lot's of great info here regardless of your level of experience.
my general rules of thumb for dyeema:
1. Use zingit/lashit for structural ridgeline if you are under 250lbs otherwise use dynaglide. But, beware that at some point in the future a structural ridgeline using zing-it will fail. usually on the 2nd night of a 5 day backpacking trip so use dynaglide or don't place your hammock over sharp rocks or sticks.
2. Use Zingit for tarp ridgelines as it is very lightweight and will never get near the 500lb breaking point when used properly.
3. Use Amsteel for anything that will require direct weight bearing capacity. Things like whoopie slings, continuous loops for end of hammock, etc.
Malo Periculosam Libertatem Quam Quietum Servitium
I also know they're equivalent. Any hmw polyethilene based product should be fine.
Not to be too picky, but the use of the word "Equivalent" is really questionable in this case. There are several (as I understand it) versions of UHMWP fiber that can be used to start with, plus the difference in coatings used, plus the difference in how those fibers are handled during production, plus how they woven.
So manufacture and starting fiber can contribute differences to the final products, so although a rope uses UHMWP it doesn't follow that ropes from different manufacturers will be "equivalent". They may be similar, but like most things in life ... there is usually a range of quality in any manufactured goods and rope IMO is no different.
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