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  1. #11
    Senior Member AtHomeDad's Avatar
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    Could you just take two layers of noseeum net and sew through at intervals, then attach it to the edge of your ripstop, no sewing in the middle. Once it's inside the ripstop, open the "Pockets" created by the sew through and fill, as well as putting fill in the narrow spaces.

    I could see that there'd be some shifting between the cells outside of the original pockets, but would also allow you to adjust to ensure that you had more insulation in the center.

    You may also consider some of the "high bond" tape that they use for the Cuben tarps to hold the net to the ripstop. It should hold the noseeum, and would grab some of the down, but then no longer be sticky.

    I guess that I will be dealing with the Pain of sewing baffles, but think that this may be considered as an easier way that this thread desires.
    The person who says that it can't be done, doesn't
    The person who says that it can be done, does it!

  2. #12
    Member gt7599a's Avatar
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    I think you'd get a lot go down movement when you went to fluff but maybe it'd even out.

    Re, High bond tape: That's an interesting idea. How well it would bond to rip stop nylon?

    Ed
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  3. #13
    Senior Member hikerman2000's Avatar
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    Could someone PLEASE explain to me what the difference between sewn-through baffles and non sewn-through are? I'm going to construct a TQ soon and I don't want to compromise heat retention and this topic seems to be numero uno with regards to that.

    So, I know it's a matter of the stitches compressing both sides of your shell together, which promotes cold spot possibilities, so if this isn't accomplished to hold the baffles in place, how else can the baffles be set into their place? I guess my question is, what and where do you exactly stitch then. I'm a visual learner and pictures with a label or something would be extremely helpful if one would be so inclined

  4. #14
    Senior Member hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikerman2000 View Post
    Could someone PLEASE explain to me what the difference between sewn-through baffles and non sewn-through are? I'm going to construct a TQ soon and I don't want to compromise heat retention and this topic seems to be numero uno with regards to that.

    So, I know it's a matter of the stitches compressing both sides of your shell together, which promotes cold spot possibilities, so if this isn't accomplished to hold the baffles in place, how else can the baffles be set into their place? I guess my question is, what and where do you exactly stitch then. I'm a visual learner and pictures with a label or something would be extremely helpful if one would be so inclined
    Hikerman, you're sort of off topic but look at my recent build and see if it makes more sense.

    http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=57248

    You have to sew all the baffles to one shell first, then sew them each to the other shell. The shells don't touch where the baffles are when finished stuffing. Feel free to pm me with questions if you like.
    Some say I'm apathetic, but I don't care. - Randy

  5. #15
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikerman2000 View Post
    Could someone PLEASE explain to me what the difference between sewn-through baffles and non sewn-through are? I'm going to construct a TQ soon and I don't want to compromise heat retention and this topic seems to be numero uno with regards to that.

    So, I know it's a matter of the stitches compressing both sides of your shell together, which promotes cold spot possibilities, so if this isn't accomplished to hold the baffles in place, how else can the baffles be set into their place? I guess my question is, what and where do you exactly stitch then. I'm a visual learner and pictures with a label or something would be extremely helpful if one would be so inclined
    Here is a quick drawing that I made showing baffle construction and a sew through design.

    To sew the baffles, start by sewing all of the baffles to the inside of one of your shells, lets say the bottom. Then you work your way across the baffles sewing one at a time to the top shell. In my sketch above you would sew the baffle on the right first and work your way across. If you keep everything neat it's not too bad. I have a series of photos in my thread here. http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=56604

  6. #16
    Member gt7599a's Avatar
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    @hikerman
    Typical baffle construction is exactly how these guys described it above. A baffle is simply a wall dividing two spaces. It works very well and if you have the time and skill (and the skill isn't really that much) it is the best & lightest option for down quilt construction.

    A sewn through quilt simply means the inner and out layers (green in the picture above) are sewn directly together with no baffle (wall) between them. That means all along that seam there is No Insulation. That's the cold spots we're talking about, more accurately cold lines.

    That's the typical problem with a sewn through quilt, why most people don't use them below 40°F & what we're trying to find a work around for - Easier & faster to build than a typical baffled quilt, almost as light weight, just as warm.

    Ed
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  7. #17
    Senior Member hikerman2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gt7599a View Post
    @hikerman
    Typical baffle construction is exactly how these guys described it above. A baffle is simply a wall dividing two spaces. It works very well and if you have the time and skill (and the skill isn't really that much) it is the best & lightest option for down quilt construction.

    A sewn through quilt simply means the inner and out layers (green in the picture above) are sewn directly together with no baffle (wall) between them. That means all along that seam there is No Insulation. That's the cold spots we're talking about, more accurately cold lines.

    That's the typical problem with a sewn through quilt, why most people don't use them below 40°F & what we're trying to find a work around for - Easier & faster to build than a typical baffled quilt, almost as light weight, just as warm.

    Ed
    I think I get it now... So you don't completely envelop the down with the no-seeum, but only to act as a spacer between the baffles. If this is true, I'm all good

  8. #18
    Senior Member doogie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikerman2000 View Post
    I think I get it now... So you don't completely envelop the down with the no-seeum, but only to act as a spacer between the baffles. If this is true, I'm all good
    You got it!

  9. #19
    Member gt7599a's Avatar
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    What doggie said, but remember, you have to share pictures.

    Looking forward to seeing what you cook up.

    Ed
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  10. #20
    Senior Member hppyfngy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hikerman2000 View Post
    I think I get it now... So you don't completely envelop the down with the no-seeum, but only to act as a spacer between the baffles. If this is true, I'm all good
    A common point of confusion is in the terms "baffle" vs "chamber."

    The baffle is the no-seeum, (or other,) material that creates the separation between the chambers.

    It may be a minor point but using the terms interchangeably confuses some.
    Some say I'm apathetic, but I don't care. - Randy

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