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  1. #3091
    New Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Matthews, NC
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    8
    non bent hinge.jpg

    Other hinge. Setting eye bolt 2" in from end puts the ridgepole right into the outside leg.

    Adding chain connecting eye bolt to bow shackle the answer??

    This would allow me to be a little closer to the ground and also allow the ridge pole to center below the hinge better.

  2. #3092
    cougarmeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Hammock
    WBBB, WBRR, WL LiteOwl
    Tarp
    OES, WL BullFro
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    HG UQ, TQ, WB UQ
    Suspension
    Python Straps
    Posts
    3,780
    Looks like you needed to put another bolt in the hinge connection to the wooden leg. Also, I didn't see anything keeping the base of the legs from spreading.

    Kudos in using a sandbag instead of something like a younger sister to test the setup.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  3. #3093
    New Member
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    Aug 2016
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    Matthews, NC
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    8
    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    Looks like you needed to put another bolt in the hinge connection to the wooden leg. Also, I didn't see anything keeping the base of the legs from spreading.

    Kudos in using a sandbag instead of something like a younger sister to test the setup.
    Yeah, I learned the hard way one time already.

    Set the legs to be contained to 48" and also created a strap and hook system that lowers the ridgepole down approx. 9".
    new strap.jpg
    Can anyone explain why the ridgeline goes slack when weight is added to hammock now? When I had it set up between two trees (about 16-17 feet apart) I didn't have this.

    thanks
    Last edited by cgstclair; 07-05-2019 at 15:29.

  4. #3094
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    394
    cgstr,

    So if you are done dialing in your TDS and your ridgeline is not the way you like it, you have to play around with the distance and the height of your TDS. Or you can just get rid of the fixed ridgeline and make you own adjustable ridge line, for the hammock. Something else to remember is maybe it will not all be perfect.

    Dont give up. It will be worth it.

    FWIW, I made my TDS legs at 8 feet of height. I used 2 X 2 X 8 foot pieces of lumber, I got at Lowes. My ridgepole ended up at about 13 or 14 feet, in 3 pieces. I hung the ridgepole about 4 inches below the leg hinges.

    Have fun.

    Bob

  5. #3095
    cougarmeat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Bend, OR
    Hammock
    WBBB, WBRR, WL LiteOwl
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    HG UQ, TQ, WB UQ
    Suspension
    Python Straps
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    3,780
    When using 2 x 2's, do you angle the bottom of the stick so it's more flush with a solid flat solid surface; like a patio or floor. I can see how in dirt, the sharp edges of the leg bottoms would dig in, be more anchored. But if this were to be used on a hard flat surface I wonder if there is any real benefit to cutting the bottom of the 2 x 2 legs so they are flat to the floor when extended to their limit. Because it seems like it could be a lot more work to get that angle correct and even on three pieces. Because I'd be using this for inside demos or outside on a patio - not soft ground - I wondered if it would be an extra step - to angle the bottom of those legs - I'd need to make.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  6. #3096
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    394
    cm,

    I think it would limit your setup if you angled the legs where they contact the floor, unless you used the same length hammock for each setup. In other words, I would not cut angles on the end of the legs. I think you may even compromise the integrity of the 2 X 2, if you angled the leg ends. FWIW I just remembered, for my TDS, I used 2 X 3 not 2 X 2.

    I would recommend you using those rubberized, non slip discs that people put under chair legs, so as to not scratch wood floors. They are just like drink coasters but made of non slip rubber. I picked them up at Lowes and use them under the legs of my cot, when I sleep in my Wall Tent. They protect the floor of the tent from punctures.

    I would make the TDS as per usual. I would then put those non slip rubber disc coaster floor protectors under the end of each leg. I think these will work just fine for your application.
    Last edited by Draketake; 07-07-2019 at 19:11.

  7. #3097
    New Member
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    Mar 2019
    Location
    Denair, CA
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    1
    Does the cross piece have to be metal? Has anyone tried 1 1/2- 2 inch PVC?

  8. #3098
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    394
    Quote Originally Posted by denairt View Post
    Does the cross piece have to be metal? Has anyone tried 1 1/2- 2 inch PVC?
    PVC may work. The ridgepole does take some stress on it. Look at some of the videos and you can see it as people get in and out of hammock. When people are in the hammock (static) the ridgepole bows upwards in a shallow angle, so there's stress then also. Not sure PVC would absorb it well.

  9. #3099
    Senior Member Texas Hanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Hammock
    DIY 11',65W;V-Allen Bridge
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    I would not trust a pvc cross bar. It will flex too much and over time (especially with uv/weather degradation) it could snap dropping you to ground with the tri-pods collapsing inward. Not good...
    Failure is a good friend you will meet on the road to success. Just remember, he will give the best directions...

  10. #3100
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    chicago
    Posts
    2
    New hanger here, made my TDS then discovered, holy cow, I can fit it in my car! Was quite amazed.
    IMG_20190810_134916_01_01.jpg

    IMG_20190811_102131777.jpgIMG_20190811_102144076.jpg

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