Dynaglide whoopie help

[IOInterrupt]

I am trying to make a set of whoopie slings with Dynaglide but I am second guessing myself. I read that Dynaglide only needed a 6" bury, but I can't find any Dynaglide whoopie specific instructions (only amsteel). I started using the instructions on the Hammocker.com website, but I am not sure it's right. The bury doesn't seem anywhere close to 6" after the fixed eye loop. The bury is measured after the fix eye loop correct?

Any help here would be great. I don't want to do this wrong and have it break on me. I only had 25ft to work with and I'd like to get as close to a set of 6 footers possible.

[IOInterrupt]

If it helps to know, I am just looking for a 1" fixed eye to connect to my HH Explorer.

[MAD777]

I'm no excerpt on rope but I've read in many sources that a Whoopie bury needs to be longer than a fixed eye bury. I don't have a clue why, but people much more knowledgeable than I on the subject do it this way.

[rip waverly]

i've always just made mine with the same instruction for the 6' whoopie slings. 25ft. of line will make 2 6'ers pretty much on the nose.

better to have too much bury, than not enough.

[lazy river road]

I think I get what you are asking so I will try and answer. Not including the 1" fixed eye the bury should measure 6". That 6" should be measured from the point of entry to the end point of splice (and I personally do not count the tapered portion of the cord so the bury is actually a bit longer). So if you have a 6", you should be able to measure a little over apx. 7.5" from the top of the fixed eye to the end of the buried cord depending on how much you taper (I cant remember the recommended taper length off the top of my head). Hope this helps ya out.

P.S. I personally bury my adjustable end and fixed eye end a bit over 6", I'd venture to say I bury between 7"-8" as a margin of error.

[DemostiX]

The key to reducing anxiety with this is to realize you are working with nominal dimensions. What does that mean?

Well, for one, it means that sizes are used to distinguish products from the same maker,and you can be sure bigger is bigger, but not too much else.

Second, after these lines have been used, they become tighter because the constructional looseness has been gotten out. So, if your bury was 70 times the diameter when you started, it will be more than 70 times the diameter after the line has been worked.

Third: You can find Dynaglide labeled as 1.8mm as often as you find it called 2.0. Further, since the fiber and weight are close to identical to those of Zing-It 2.2, after they are worked, they must be the same diameter.

Are you catching on about there being a margin of error and looseness here?

Probably more important to holding and breaking strength is that you take care to milk the sleeve over the bury when you use the sling as we use it, and to compress the sleeve to loosen the grip, so that the gradual tightening of stands near the loop exit from the sleeve is slower than it will otherwise be, and the load will be more evenly distributed. I spend some idle time evening tightness, mostly because I want to reduce the possiblity of snagging of any of the increasingly open strands following the entrance from the bury.

Finally, the reason for good working load margins is so that you don't approach the 800 lb of load at which this might break in a worst case.

For the record, with limited testing of new whoopies, they have broken where there is only a single strand supporting the load, between the eye-splice bury and the sleeve of the bury. As that was at or above the breaking strength of the line, the sling obviously held.

[DemostiX]

The key to reducing anxiety with this is to realize you are working with nominal dimensions. What does that mean?

Well, for one, it means that sizes are used to distinguish products from the same maker,and you can be sure bigger is bigger, but not too much else.

Second, after these lines have been used, they become tighter because the constructional looseness has been gotten out. So, if your bury was 70 times the diameter when you started, it will be more than 70 times the diameter after the line has been worked.

Third: You can find Dynaglide labeled as 1.8mm as often as you find it called 2.0. Further, since the fiber and weight are close to identical to those of Zing-It 2.2, after they are worked, they must be the same diameter. And 7/64" Amsteel? A nominal 2.5mm, suggesting that a safe and by the book target bury length for Dynaglide could be from 10-20% shorter than what is calculated for the Amsteel Blue.

Are you catching on about there being a margin of error and safety here?

Probably more important to holding and breaking strength is that you take care to milk the sleeve over the bury when you use the sling as we use it, and to compress the sleeve to loosen the grip, so that the gradual tightening of stands near the loop exit from the sleeve is slower than it will otherwise be, and the load will be more evenly distributed. I spend some idle time evening tightness, mostly because I want to reduce the possiblity of snagging of any of the increasingly open strands following the entrance from the bury.

Finally, the reason for good working load margins is so that you don't approach the 800 lb of load at which this might break in a worst case.

For the record, with limited testing of new whoopies, they have broken where there is only a single strand supporting the load, between the eye-splice bury and the sleeve of the bury. As that was at or above the breaking strength of the line, the sling obviously held.

Don't forget to taper in eye splice bury.

[jdneri]

PM sent. Hope it helps.

[Callahan]

Myself, I just do what Rip does and make them the same as my 7'64 amsteel whoopies. They work great.

Cheers

[DemostiX]

Don't cite that table. It has several errors, and should be buried, not least for the illusion of precision swamped by measurement error. See my remarks above on that.

Some corrections and simplifications were made in an update Angry Sparrow posted in the last several months.