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  1. #31
    tazmaniac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilvrSurfr View Post
    Tarp under ridgeline for me - just always worried about excessive wear on tarp from ridgeline rubbing against it. I might try it the other way just for kicks and giggles.
    Agreed, main reason for over tarp for me. The wind can turn that line in to a chainsaw. Some of my tarps have cat cuts, some don't, never considered that angle.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bubba View Post
    Another option is to not have a continuous ridgeline.
    Agreed.

    I prefer split suspensions but will run CRL's when necessary. Ie., I hang the RL above when using poles on my panel pull-outs and my main tarp is cat-cut. One of my winter tarps is not cat-cut with no panel pulls, but has a center pole mod. That one I run a CRL under, out of necessity.

    All other times, and during warm weather where I typically just use a small hex tarp, I do split suspensions. I also add independent drip lines to all my RL's so over or under doesn't make much of a difference in that respect.

    All-in-all I think it's just a personal preference thing.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikekiM View Post
    ....I use split ridge lines. Find them far easier to adjust, they require less cordage and the excess cord creates it's own water break.
    X2

  4. #34
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    I don't use split suspension because we have just a wide range of tree diameter in the PNW. In the summer, I put my "all the way across" ridge line over the tarp. But in the winter, I'd put it under the tarp for more support if there was a heavy dump of snow. Rain - a pathway under the tarp - isn't so much a concern in winter and If I were concerned with wear, it wouldn't take much hanging from the ridge line (to dry) to pull it lower, greatly minimizing the rub.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  5. #35
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    I don't use split suspension because we have just a wide range of tree diameter in the PNW.....
    What does tree size have to do with using split ridge lines?

    I have 12' - 15' on each end (depending on the tarp I grab) and have never used all of it. In fact, I don't think I have used more the 10' on either end. Admittedly, NE trees aren't nearly that large, but I am still not getting why larger trees would prevent one from using the split RL's. Wanting to have support for snow, I get...
    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

  6. #36
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    I've never seen a tarp that has been damaged by running a ridge line under it but a lot of folks seem to worry abut it. The tarps that I have that are cat-cut do not have a cat-cut along the ridge seam. Even if a tarp did have one, I think it would be hard to get a ridge line taut enough to affect it. I like a one-piece ridge line because I find it easier to hang a tarp: first the line it strung, then the tarp is hung. Mostly I hang the tarp below but occasionally over the top, depending on what ridge line type I happen to be using. Of course, drip lines are called for if you run the ridge line under the tarp.

  7. #37
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    MikeiM, your two 15 ft pieces totals 30 ft and my 50 3mm utility cord from REI comes in a 50 ft. hank. So that's only 20 ft extra and I can handle the extra weight of that 20 ft cord. I've done the math plenty of times ... What's the biggest practical diameter I'll be dealing with. What's the furtherest distance between trees because I can only reach so high, etc. It all comes out about the same as you use - around 30 ft.

    But for me, it's okay have a little extra cord handy. And as mentioned, in snow conditions a full length under the tarp can better support a snow fall. And the way I rig my suspension - a continuous loop - if I need to adjust the tarp position left/right a few inches I just need to pull the line. I don't have to go to one end, loosen it, go to the other end, make an adjustment, then go back and retighten the first setting.

    So yeah, 15 ft on each end would probably work. But that full line across the top is also handy to hang clothes and also supports my exterior panel pull poles. Works for me.


    Okay - this isn't the PNW. This is Belize. Cougarmeat with Python straps and cheapie "travel" hammock. But still, we have big trees.
    BelizeTreeScaled.jpg
    Guess my Python Straps are a little short.

    This is from Cathedral Grove - in B.C. on the way to Tofino
    IMG_1068.jpg

    Broughton Group - kayak camping
    TreesBroughton.jpg
    Last edited by cougarmeat; 01-21-2020 at 19:42.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  8. #38
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    Tip: if you have split lines, they can be joined together in 5 seconds with a simple sheet bend. Then you can do anything with it in any situation.

  9. #39
    Senior Member MikekiM's Avatar
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    @cougarmeat... You make a great point for carrying longer lines. I always have a ten foot zingit dogbone and the two door hooks I carry have another fifteen feet or so. I still don't see how larger trees warrant a continuous ridge line.

    Here's the thing... if I carry fifteen feet at each end, I can use all fifteen feet at each end. There is no doubling over, no V's and no making big continuous loops and such. It's one piece of cord that goes around the tree and secures with a diamond knot (like using a DWG Hook). 100% of the length you carry is put to work if needed.

    Admittedly, I never see trees like you show in the first two pics... more like the third pic.. And I have never used the full length I carry. To be candid, the problem is more often that there are too many trees. Too close. Too many sapling sprouting between the perfect pair you want to hang from.

    As far as moving the tarp, with the mini ucrs your bump the tarp and inch or six one way or the other, double check your stakes and you're done. I don't have to go to one end, loosen it, go to the other end, make an adjustment, then go back and retighten the first setting. Same for lowering if need to batten down... bump the ucr and inch or three, tighten the stakes and you're done.

    I've never been one for hanging stuff under the tarp... over the hammock ridge line.. sure. And I don't use poles any more.

    So, it's not a matter of right or wrong.. we've both been doing this long enough to have tried both ways (hopefully) and have settled on what works best. I try to get as absolutely simple as possible and, like you, it works for me. While I am happy to share my perspective and experience I am not arrogant enough to think that my way is the only way or that my success can't be improved upon. I'm not trying to convert anyone. Inspire.. yes. Convert.. no.
    Yes, my pack weighs 70lbs, but it's all light weight gear....
    Bob's brother-in-law

  10. #40
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    MikeKiM, if my post sounded like large trees "required" a continuous ridge line, that's not what I meant. I use a continuous ridge line because it works best for me - on large or small trees. This summer I'll probably change things up and string just one line from tree to tree, using prussic on that one line for the tarp - at least try it a few times. I was lucky enough to get in on that 600 ft spool of Amsteel at under 10 cents a foot sale a while back and need to justify it somehow The single line between the trees still protects the tarp if there is any movement in high wind.

    When I post something, I'm only sharing how I do it, not how everyone should do it. I do have my own philosophy; but I understand it's just my idea and there's a reason why there is more than one person in the world.
    Last edited by cougarmeat; 01-26-2020 at 18:02.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

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