DIY UQ sewn-end baffle dart question

[jwright]

Wow, after LOTS of reading (especially happyhiker, GLP and grizz), I think I have the baffle ends sorted out. I now seem to have a dart question.

After sewing the length of the baffles to the outer fabric and then bringing the outer fabric up the short edge/end of the baffle at ~90 deg (the baffle height) one is left with what I think of as a rectangular (lasagna) baking dish shape (the dish handles would be the seam allowance). see attachment #2

The inner fabric then fits on as a 'lid'.

Now, we want to add darts to shape the ends of the quilt into a 3d curve and to taper the overall shape. We will need to dart both the inner and the outer shells to create this effect and the dart width/length will affect both the resulting curve and the taper of the quilt. The darts in the outer shell will also need to be wider to account for the wider baffle spacing (chamber width) of the outer shell. This will give us equal edge lengths along the width of the inner and outer faces, allowing them to mate up.

That is how I understand the mechanics so far. Please correct me if I have botched it.

My question has to do with the shape of the darts in the outer face.

Looking at the many pictures of sewn baffle quilt ends, the near square shape of the outer panel end is quite noticeable. On the outer face, most people seem to make a simple triangular dart of the appropriate width and of the same length as the inner face. This does not seem to account for the first several inches (2"-4+") of vertical outer shell material that makes up the chamber end wall (for lack of a better term).
Would adding an initial parallel portion (length equal to baffle height) to the the outer face dart, before starting the taper, be more ideal? The actual taper would then start on the proper portion of the outer face (parallel to the inner face) and the taper lengths would then match.

see attachment #1

I don't know if this would even make a difference but as I have been pondering the ends of UQ, it just didn't seem to fit until I put this into my mental images.

What do you think?

Jason

Sorry for the wordy post, this is a case where a picture or two would save a thousand words

[HappyHiker]

That is how I understand the mechanics so far. Please correct me if I have botched it.

Sounds right to me

My question has to do with the shape of the darts in the outer face.

Looking at the many pictures of sewn baffle quilt ends, the near square shape of the outer panel end is quite noticeable. On the outer face, most people seem to make a simple triangular dart of the appropriate width and of the same length as the inner face. This does not seem to account for the first several inches (2"-4+") of vertical outer shell material that makes up the chamber end wall (for lack of a better term).

On my UQ, I used a modified dart in each corner (total of four) of the outer to take up the additional material both length and width wise - and to give it the "baking pan" shape.

Would adding an initial parallel portion (length equal to baffle height) to the the outer face dart, before starting the taper, be more ideal? The actual taper would then start on the proper portion of the outer face (parallel to the inner face) and the taper lengths would then match.

see attachment #1

I don't know if this would even make a difference but as I have been pondering the ends of UQ, it just didn't seem to fit until I put this into my mental images.

What do you think?

Jason

Sorry for the wordy post, this is a case where a picture or two would save a thousand words

I think the "baking pan" shape is better. It keeps the inner tight against the hammock and leaves the outer hanging loose. With a taper, it seems to me that you would be adding fabric to the inner and possibly reducing the available fabric on the outer when suspended.