My only reservation is that the dynaglide may still slip against itself. I've got a ton of mule tape in my work room so I'm going to sew up one and try it.
My only reservation is that the dynaglide may still slip against itself. I've got a ton of mule tape in my work room so I'm going to sew up one and try it.
I honestly think it'll hold, I wouldn't be surprised if I am wrong though, I often am. It's gotta be better than a dg lead to a dg loop though... I'm sure I've read that dyneema to dyneema connections cut through themselves pretty quickly. Looking forward to your results, I'm a fair bit heavier than you so if it works for you it still might not work for meI'll be sending some muletape to Scotty Von Porkchop too, so there should be some decent results of what does and doesn't work and varying ideas over the next month or so.
That is a negative. It did not work. As I guessed the stuff slid right out like it did last time. I wonder if you can wash it to the point it isn't slippery anymore. My first set of Dynaglide UCRs had turned gray after over a year of continuous use to the point that people wouldn't believe that it was dynaglide. I cannot remember if it was less slippery and I am not sure where I put those.
Ah, oh well. What about a different knot? Slightly more time consuming but not much...http://wonderfulinnovations.com/knots/heaving-line-bend
I don't know. After weight is on that knot how hard is it to untie?
Done a quick check with kevlar straps and dg, it seems like it'll hold, a pain to untie though, like you guessed. Back to the drawing board.
Revisited this idea due to all the interest in this thread and I might have found something. This shows promise at least. All it requires is one step added to the becket hitch. I am using 1/2" woven kevlar strap on the hammock end. It is very similar to muletape.
You will pass the DG through the loop.
IMG_0174.jpg
Wrap the working end around the strap loop. still nothing new here.
IMG_0175.JPG
Now instead of passing a bite through that wrap- make a second wrap around the strap loop.
IMG_0176.JPG
Now pass a bite through both of these loops as you would to finish a normal becket hitch.
IMG_0177.JPG
Done! Don't forget the toggle.
IMG_0178.JPG
This holds. Initially at least. I haven't tried it for more than a minute but it held all right and looks like it will work. It takes a good bit more pull to untie than a normal becket hitch but unties the same way. I'm beginning to wonder if it is more of a line diameter issue than simply the slipperiness of the line. Maybe the right combo of diamters would allow for a normal becket hitch?
Edit: sorry for the strange pics, the pictures rotated their orientations after I uploaded. hopefully its not too confusing.
This is good news! Thanks mophead.
I wonder if instead of a toggle, the tag end of the line e could be slipped through the loop.
Last edited by MAD777; 06-10-2015 at 08:50.
Mike
"Life is a Project!"
I thought you might be describing a double sheetbend but it looks different in your picture.Originally Posted by mophead
I tried making a 7/64" Amsteel to 1" poly strap connection this weekend with a plain Beckett and it wouldn't hold ( it pretty near melted a groove in my strap from friction ). I may try your connection above with a toggle to see how that holds. Thanks for sharing.
Yes I'm not sure this is a double sheetbend, the bite kind of makes it confusing to think about. This is a sheetbend that has two wraps of line cinching down on the bite where there would normally only be one. I think a double sheetbend has one wrap cinching down on two where there would normally be one. This is the other way around.... I think....
Last edited by mophead; 06-10-2015 at 11:00.
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