I don't know how long it can wait, I usually went within a few minutes of applying it since it dries fast.
I don't know how long it can wait, I usually went within a few minutes of applying it since it dries fast.
LBP, the primer needs to dry, which it does within 5 minutes under good conditions. After that it can wait quite a while, but the work should be kept clean - don't let dust settle on it, for instance. So, finishing the bond within an hour or so is fine, maybe a lot longer.
Take a look at my description of taping the cuben to a masonite work surface again. That works well, and it's easily done by someone working alone. Your idea of taping the cuben to a long stick would be much more difficult, IMO, because you need to get the whole length aligned accurately and placed all at once. An 11' piece of wood bends a lot under its own weight, unless it's a 4 x 4. It's better to have the cuben pieces already aligned and held in place, so they bond instantly as the backing paper is removed.
Ok, so I see the point of the wood bending. Didnt think of that. That thought just came to me while looking at the video.
Thanks for the replies.
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Beware Plan A can be a little excessive .
There are two differences between 9460 and 9485: type of adhesive and thickness. First, 3M uses two different adhesives for these tapes. Both work for polyester (which includes CTF3 or cuben fiber). The adhesive used for 9485 is called "350" and the adhesive used for 9460 is called "100MP". The difference between these two is that 100MP requires a primer ("Primer 94") to achieve the strongest possible bond, but with that primer, it is stronger than "350", especially in resisting peel forces. To some extent, that's academic because we should be designing to limit loading on our tarp seams to shear forces, not peel. It's also not terribly important because both types of adhesive are "strong enough" for our uses. FWIW, using Primer 94 with 9485 improves its bonding, too, but it's still second-best when it comes to bond strength. Using Primer 94 is very easy, so I chose 9460.
The second difference between the two tapes is the thickness of the adhesive layer. Both types of adhesive transfer tape are made in two thicknesses, 2 mil or 5 mil. 2 mil is good for very flat or very thin and flexible materials (like CTF3). 5 mil is good for bonding stiffer materials with rougher surfaces (like an aluminum sign to a brick wall). Tapes using 100MP adhesive are 9460 (2 mil) and 9469 (5 mil). Tapes using 350 adhesive are 9482 (2 mil) and 9485 (5 mil).
The information on the relative strengths of the bonds is from the 3M data sheets, and it was confirmed in my testing. I use 2 mil tape (9460) with primer for construction and 2 mil tape (9482) for on-trail repairs (which I haven't needed so far, but I have pieces of CTF3 with tape applied ready to use).
Hope this helps. Everything works, for the most part, but it's nice to feel that you're using the best possible combination of materials and bonding agents.
Reading that, I wonder if one could bond nylon pull-outs to cuben using 9485? And if you could, how strong would it be?
Here's what 3M says about nylon and other materials. Nylon is very close to polyester in surface energy, so both types of adhesive transfer tapes should stick to it. The surface of a woven strap is rough, so a thicker tape (9469 or 9485) would be better.
That's the theory, anyway. When I'm doing my tie-out tests I'll try it. I wonder if one of the urethane glues like Hysol or Aquaseal wouldn't work just as well. It's hard to get them thin enough for bonding sheets, but they might penetrate a woven strap and work the better for it. I think I'll try 1/2" grosgrain to CTF3.
man i need to get some cuben now.....
It puts the Underquilt on it's hammock ... It does this whenever it gets cold
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