Hanging out... Indoors!

**tiger1dd** · 07-14-2011, 16:02

Yup, but, my point, atleast, is that I'm not hanging from a hinge. Using the hinge as a STOPPER (i.e. keeping the carabiner from sliding), while the force goes on the door.

Lets do some math:

my door is 80 inches tall, and an inch and a half thick. multiply those for the area... 120 inches, PER side. so double it. 240 inches squared. So, divide my weight (150 lbs) by 2, and that's 75 lbs per door. 75 pounds by 240 inches, is 5 ounces of force, per square inch.

In reality, it probably isn't that simple, because of the angle/location of the force, etc, but for all practicality, that's what I'm going with.

I would also like to point out, that, from the orientation of my setup (doors SHUT), to pull the hinges out, you would have to rip a screw through an inch of wood.

I feel perfectly safe hanging like this-your experience my vary. At any rate, this is at least a basis for innovation.

Cheers,
Dave

**AppalachianHammock** · 07-15-2011, 01:45

Originally Posted by tiger1dd

Yup, but, my point, atleast, is that I'm not hanging from a hinge. Using the hinge as a STOPPER (i.e. keeping the carabiner from sliding), while the force goes on the door.

Cheers,
Dave

This is what Im doing as well. instead of just the carabiner, I have my tree strap around a 1"x4" board about 2ft long, that spreads the load among the entire door frame, and the hinge just keeps the webbing from sliding.

Oh, and your math is just like mine when I started, Totally wrong. Apparently each support holds MORE then your entire weight. If it was as simple as you and I thought, We could use 550 cord for someone weighing 400lbs. (ive broken 550 cord at my 265lbs) and why rated cordage atleast 1000lbs is reccomended,

**joehasbeard** · 07-15-2011, 02:17

Originally Posted by tiger1dd

In reality, it probably isn't that simple, because of the angle/location of the force, etc,

You're right, it isn't that simple. The guys here on the forums helped me A LOT when I was working on my indoor setup, but basically what it all comes down to is the angle of your hang. less than 30deg and you're cutting weight, anything greater and you add weight.

Now for my setup i have rope held with a door and rope tied off on a bar in my closet. The closet bar is particularly precarious yet it holds my weight (220lbs) and has held me for several dozen nights now. If you hung from a higher height your angle would actually be decreased, lessening the force on your anchor points, but I wouldn't count on the actual hinge screws holding onto your weight.

I seem to remember someone saying that wall studs could withstand vertical force way better than horizontal force. Keep that in mind.

**toober** · 07-15-2011, 08:13

Originally Posted by tiger1dd

Yup, but, my point, atleast, is that I'm not hanging from a hinge. Using the hinge as a STOPPER (i.e. keeping the carabiner from sliding), while the force goes on the door.

Good point about the hinge being a stopper.

Originally Posted by tiger1dd

75 pounds by 240 inches, is 5 ounces of force, per square inch.

In reality, it probably isn't that simple, because of the angle/location of the force, etc, but for all practicality, that's what I'm going with.

What you did not figure into the equation is that your rope(or equivalent) is not evenly distributing the weight across the entire door or hinge. And the rope in one spot THROUGH the crack is less than a square inch.

Maybe a true test would be to secure the rope(or equivalent) through the crack at a point "BETWEEN" two hinges and close the door. See if the door crack, without the help of a hinge, is supporting you without the rope moving.

Originally Posted by nc527

This is what Im doing as well. instead of just the carabiner, I have my tree strap around a 1"x4" board about 2ft long, that spreads the load among the entire door frame, and the hinge just keeps the webbing from sliding.

This definitely seems safer and could allow for increased angles. Try the "between" test also and let us know the results!

**tiger1dd** · 07-15-2011, 19:38

Originally Posted by toober

Good point about the hinge being a stopper.

Maybe a true test would be to secure the rope(or equivalent) through the crack at a point "BETWEEN" two hinges and close the door. See if the door crack, without the help of a hinge, is supporting you without the rope moving.

Well, I tested it out. Put it right between the middle and upper hinges, closed door, and sat down in the hammock. The rope didn't budge.

The first pic is from the side, before the moment of truth

The second pic is after putting my butt on the line... (and no, I was sitting IN the hammock... not on the rope.)

**tiger1dd** · 07-15-2011, 19:48

I would also like to add this (stolen from justjeffs site... sorry!)

**Moolelo** · 07-16-2011, 02:55

Fairlead eye straps rated at 1,500lbs. Concrete screw anchors rated at 360lbs each. Mounted on solid concrete walls. Now can sleep a little sounder knowing the ground will stay down

photo-1.jpg

**toober** · 07-18-2011, 08:13

Originally Posted by tiger1dd

Well, I tested it out. Put it right between the middle and upper hinges, closed door, and sat down in the hammock. The rope didn't budge.

Most excellent. Now people can height adjust without worry.

**tiger1dd** · 07-18-2011, 08:42

While you COULD use it, I wouldn't say that I felt extremely comfortable with it there. I still prefer the "backup" of the door hinge.

However, it CAN be done.

**Acer** · 07-18-2011, 08:46

For outside and working on gear,,,I just cemented a treated 4 x 4 2 ft in the ground,,and can hang up to 3 hammocks in different directions at different lengths in front of house, as its 200 yds into my 40 acre woods,, but inside. with my building the house, and knowing the living room studded,,just drilled the walls, and inserted a 2" eye bolt in 17' x 20 living room for hammock hanging.. Works great except wife has to walk all way around it to get to kitchen,,lol,,and great for working on gear inside as well as hammock hanging in center of room.