Stake Boom

[BrianWillan]

So why not just use a decent sized rock or log placed on the line directly in front of the stake, therefore changing the direction of the force on the stake from vertical to horizontal? This would alter the direction of the stake on the ground as the fulcrum would move up to ground level and therefore the ground behind the stake would be significantly greater (roughly tripled assuming 45* angle) so a much greater force would be required to cause the stake to launch on it's own.

It is truly UL as you don't have to carry the rock or log with you, simply pick it up at the campsite. Also this has been done for years with success by many people. All you reall need is an extra 6 inches of guy line.

I agree with this assessment. Unless the OP is routinely trying to stake out his tarp in really loose soil or sandy conditions, then I feel his solution is searching for a problem. If one is using shepherd hook style stakes that lack the holding power for the soil conditions they encounter, then they need to use different means to stake out their tarps. I use the Coughlan brand of the MSR ground hog stakes and they do their job quite well. These were an upgrade to the regular ABS plastic tent pegs that I used before and those were perfectly find for the soil conditions that I regularly encountered on my hammock camping trips.

Now if you camp in areas that routinely get enough wind that cause your tarp stakes to come out of the ground, then site selection becomes more of an issue that needs to be addressed than using a stronger stake. Remember, having tent pegs pull out is a better option that having your tarp rip in such conditions.

As always, HYOH and my comments are worth exactly what your paid for them.

Cheers

Brian

[Stovemandan]

Alamosa, I like your way of thinking. I'll Send you an idea via a PM when I get back from a 3 day campout.

[WV]

Here's my version.


Now all I need is a ti gimlet. (Is this the birth of the Dutch Stake?)

I used a 1/8" drill bit to put the angled hole in this stick, but quickly tired of twisting it with my fingers, so I cheated and used the drill.

This thing really holds great. I would like to find a lightweight gimlet or else make one by modifying one of these (Mountainfitter's) stakes.

[gmcttr]

WV...Nice...however, I would trim the excess off from the back side of the stake. It introduces another lever into the equation that might tend to pry the stake out of the ground.

[Gqgeek81]

I like in most cases this whole discussion is a bit academic (but interesting to be sure) but I think WV's stick idea is great.

To make this expedient I would suggest an easier way would be to use the saw on a leatherman to cut a slot partway into the side of the stick so it can clip onto the stake. It would be easier than trying to drill into the stick. If the stake fits snug into the notch your blade happens to cut great, if not you'd need a bit of string or cord to keep it in there.

To be fair though, if you're going to cut up branches to make it, you could probably just find a fork in the branch and make the whole stake one piece shaped like the red plastic one earlier in the thread.

Unless you are going somewhere you know you're going to have issues I tend to think the main idea is overkill. I usually find a trail stick the size of a pencil or so and have never had it pull out but I've never had to deal with high wings while on a trip either.

If you know you're going somewhere especially windy with soft soil it might be a good idea but I tend to think this is more specialized like a snow stake. You don't pack them every trip.

[WV]

WV...Nice...however, I would trim the excess off from the back side of the stake. It introduces another lever into the equation that might tend to pry the stake out of the ground.

I see what you mean. It puts the fulcrum of the boom farther back. I had been thinking that the extra length would keep the boom parallel with the ground, but that supposed advantage would only be present with very soft soil, when the point of the stake might move easily. The angle of the guyline is a factor, too. Experimentation is in order, but first I need to find an easy way to put a hole in a stick.

I think it's worthwhile to develop your ideas about staking, because multiple tarp tieouts are a nuisance. I'd rather pitch a square tarp on the diagonal with a single secure tieout on each side. Of course, that might not do for bridge hammocks. Also, I have avoided placing tieout points in the middle of each side (away from the edges), but Shug makes a good argument for them as protection from side winds. Still, if they use the same staking point as the edge tieout, that's all the more reason to devise a stronger stake.

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Gqgeek81, I like the slot in the stick idea. I'll try it.

[Dutch]

So what you want is a ti tube with a hole drilled in it and notch on the other side with a ti stake that fits inside.

[Fronkey]

So what you want is a ti tube with a hole drilled in it and notch on the other side with a ti stake that fits inside.

Dutch stake?

Fronkey

[nothermark]

I'm trying to figure out why I would need this. Sometimes stake recovery is an issue. I can't remember a failure. OTOH I always run them in as far as possible and put the tie point at ground level.

[Alamosa]

Wow, I went away for a couple days camping to find this has turned really negative.

To those that showed support and offered suggestions, thank you.

I tried to make it perfectly clear in the original post that I have a specific project that these are needed for. I tried very hard in my explanations and depictions to work through the need and development process to demonstrate the theory of why I made them and how they work.

These stakes are not just academic or theoretical. It is also not because I can't pick a spot or hang a tarp. Rest assured that I am not setting up a tarp in a wind tunnel at the sand dunes at the end of a 20 mile uphill trail. Some people have really jumped to some conclusions and then made disparaging comments about how ridiculous it is to use a stake boom in the scenarios they provided.

The physical implementation shown was again due to my actual needs and the materials I had available. Of course the theory can be applied to different materials and scale based on need. That is one of the things I find very interesting about it.

So, before posting disparaging or condescending comments, please be patient and give me an opportunity to post the project that these were developed for. If you want to blast it at that point, at least you will have the information to know why I made them.