I've been sleeping on this rig going on a year now. Made it to be adjustable.
http://www.hammockforums.net/gallery...6/img_1289.jpg
I have the WBBB 1.1 DL, the legs of my tripod are 7' tall right now. I plan on taking another 6" off them because I have to spread the legs a little too far out for my linking. The ridge pole is a 10" length of fence rail.
I am 5'5" 160# and for me the best lie is to have the ridgeline at my shoulder level. I use Prusik knots about 3" from the ends of the post and hang the BB from the web suspension right next to the adjustable rings and the ridgeline is pretty tight and when I sit in it my feet are about 2" or so off the ground.
I would post a pic but I am experiencing technical difficulties uploading right now.
Jim T
Awesome! What's it made of and where can I find some? How'd you get the varying angle on the brackets?
Last edited by robertey; 05-25-2012 at 10:57. Reason: spelling
Here's my Turtle Lady stand for my every-night living room lounger. It's made with tulip poplar saplings cut from the woods around my house. I used a TV antenna mast for the for ridgepole, which is 10 feet long. I added lanterns, a power strip for the laptop and a cat hammock on the end:
This stand, unlike Turtle Lady's, was not made to break down and carry from one place to another. It has served us well for almost a year now. So, as you can see, there are many readily available, inexpensive materials you can use to make an inside stand. Good luck!
Last edited by Pipsissewa; 05-26-2012 at 05:03.
"Pips"
Mountains have a dreamy way
Of folding up a noisy day
In quiet covers, cool and gray.
---Leigh Buckner Hanes
Surely, God could have made a better way to sleep.
Surely, God never did.
First, let me thank everyone that has posted their ideas on this thread. It really helped as I designed and built my stand this weekend.
I choose to use Cedar and Douglas Fir as I intend to use this outside on our front porch.
Using 4x4 beams...want a strong stand to withstand my weight and maybe one other person.
Materials, acquired at local Menards:
two(2) 4" x 4" x 10'-0" Douglas Fir @ $14.49 each
one(1) 4" x 4" x 8'-0" Cedar @ $18.69 each
one(1) 1" x 6" x 10'-0" Cedar @ $ 8.65 each
two(2) 3/8" x 4-1/2" screw hooks @ $ 1.59 each
one(1) bag of 3/8" x 5" galv. lag screws @ $3.89
one(1) bag of 3/8" x 6" galv. lag screws @ $3.89
twenty(20) 1/4" x 3-1/2" AC2 Power Lag screws (T4 star bit needed to screw in) @ $ 0.37 each
Total Cost: $74.68 + tax
Tools needed:
sharp tooth hand saw
power skill saw
3/8 ratchet wrench
drill or power driver for T4 screws
drill or power driver for pre-drilling holes
drill bit for pre-drilling
wood clamps wide enough for 8" clamping
Total time to build, approximately 4 hours.
Basic Steps.
1. cut the 4x4x8'-0" in 1/2 - two(2) equal 4'-0" lengths. When cutting any 4"-4", I used a hand saw, as my skill saw's blade is not deep enough to make the full 4" depth of a cut.
2. You'll need to notch out an area equal to the width of the bottom support (4x4) and about 1/2 deep into the width of the these segments. By clamping the two together, you can do both at once. I did this by running my skill saw through multiple times, about 1/8" - 1/4" apart. I actually took my hand saw and cut diagonal to make next step easier. Then using a wide chisel to knock out the remaining wood. One benefit to choosing cedar/Douglas fir is that the wood is very easy to work with in this regard. It was my first time trying this and I found it quite simple to do. THIS STEP is very important to providing stability for your hammock stand when it's in use.
3. Cut one of the 4x4x10 pieces in 1/2 to create two(2) 5'-0" segments. Cut off one end of each at a 53 degree angle.
4. Now we'll assemble the main bottom support to the two 53 degree cut pieces. Use a nice flat area like your garage floor. In order to create a 12'-0" distance for your hammock, you'll need to attached the support arms at a location 2'-0" from the end of the bottom support. Lay it all out on its side on the floor, and then you can measure the distance between the support arms where the hammock attached to verify your distance. Moving the arms closer or further away from the bottom support beam ends will increase or decrease your attachment distance. I recommend a minimum distance of 12'-0". A shorter distance is going to require more 1"x6" wood that what is listed in the material list when it comes time to attach the stabilizing pieces later.
5. I used 4 lag bolts on each support arm. two(2) 5" bolts and two(2) 6" bolts. Because your wood is at a diagonal, you'll use the 5" on the shorter connection length and 6" on the longer. You'll see what I mean when you lay the pieces out on the floor. If you used 6" bolts everywhere, they would punch all the way through the thickness of the support arm at some of the attachment points. Pre-drill the holes through the bottom of the main support beam. Position the support bar where you want it attached. I used the drill one more time through the main support beam to make indentations on the support arm where it will attached, and then continued pre-drilling the support arm where those indentations are. A steady hand and a level drill are important here to try and keep your holes as straight as possible. AN EXTRA set of hands really helps here.
6. Attached the support arms to the main support beam with lag bolts, using ratchet wrench (or applicable wrench of your choosing). AN EXTRA set of hands really helps here.
7. Attach the bottom 4'-0" support bars to the main support beam. I put mine right at the ends of the main support beam to provide optimal balance and support. I used two(2) 1/4" x 3-1/2" AC2 power lag screws on each support. You'll have the hammock stand upside-down to make these attachments. Again, another set of hands will really help here.
8. Now you can flip the hammock stand right-side up and see what it looks like. You'll need the stand in this position for the last steps.
9. Take your 1"x6" board, and put it flush with the end of the main bottom support and use a pencil to draw where it intersects with the support arm (53 degree cut).
10. Cut the 1"x6" on the line you drew. Attach piece to stand with four(4) 1/4" x 3-1-2" Power lags. Two(2) on the support arm, and two(2) on the main support beam. Pre-drill your holes for these attachments.
11. Repeat steps 9 and 10, three(3) more times. The nice thing about the diagonal cut on this wide board, is you can reuse diagonal cut on another piece. When I was done I had maybe only 1-2" leftover of the 1"-6" board. That's right, almost the entire board is used if you do it right with a 12'-0" span.
12. Attach the 3/8" x 4-1/2" screw hooks to the top ends of the support arms, about 1-1/2" from the top. Pre-drill your holes first.
13. Hook up your hammock and enjoy!
My biggest challenge now is that everyone in the family wants to use the hammock on my new stand!
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