Q:Grizz/Hangnout Bridge advice on dimensions

[packeagle]

Im looking to build a bridge hammock for my girlfriend along with possibly one for myself down the line. I have copied some measurements from various areas and I hope I'm not getting confused. After my tarp blunder I have learned my lesson and am asking for a double check before I begin.

Basically I want to build a hammock using Grizz's dimensions. The issue I am having is while his dimensions work for me. My girlfriend wants a shorter variation. I also want to further complicate madders by adding in Hangnout's end caps as they seem to be the easiest to construct.

I know shorter bridge hammocks have been made (2sticks hammock for example) I would really like some input on what dimensions for some one 5'2". I was thinking shortening the hammock body down to 5.5" for her. My question comes with the rest of the dimensions. Do I need to scale back the width, spreader bar length and cat cut to make it have a similar lie?

Will mule tape work for the webbing in the sides of the hammock?


Thanks for your assistance,
PackEagle

[JerryW]

I'd offer that 5'5" won't be long enough for someone that is 5'2" tall. You want enough room to lay flat with your feet stretched out plus a little extra above your head. I'd suggest 72" or so. Just my opinion, of course.

Muletape works great for the side webbing. I have used it on three bridge hammocks and have had no problems.

I'll let the pro's answer your other questions.


Jerry

[GrizzlyAdams]

putting my name in the thread subject is one way to get my attention!

My rule of thumb is to add 6" to body height for the length of the hammock. That's before hangnout's endcaps, you need to add their length as well.

I have used mule tape on one hammock, but one only. Am glad to hear that Jerry's had no trouble.

[packeagle]

That is what i was hoping for Grizz! Do i need to cut down the width or the depth of the cat cut?

Attached is what i was thinking for my hammock (very much plagiarised from Grizz) Could I just cut down the length to something in the 5'7" range and keep the cat cut depth.

[GrizzlyAdams]

That is what i was hoping for Grizz! Do i need to cut down the width or the depth of the cat cut?

Attached is what i was thinking for my hammock (very much plagiarised from Grizz) Could I just cut down the length to something in the 5'7" range and keep the cat cut depth.

I wouldn't change anything but the length for someone this size.

[hangnout]

What Grizz said

On the end caps 16" will be fairly close, but length of spreader bar and final width after rolling webbing can change this measurement. Below is how I figured mine.

• Figure what your final width after webbing is rolled will be.
• Decide what length spreader bar you will use.

You use the measurements above to figure the depth the end caps need to be. I am going to do this with minimal math

• I take a length of cord and mark 2 points the width of my hammock on the cord.
• I then pin the cord to a wall putting the 2 marks the same distance apart as my spreader bars. Make sure the 2 points are fairly level.
• Put a straight edge across the pins and measure the distance between the straight edge and center of cord.
• This gives you the measurement for the exact size the end cap arcs need to be.
• You will edge these instead of using a rolled hem so you do not need to figure a hem allowance for the length.

Also start the arc where the final rolled webbing will be, not at the sides of the fabric.

Another tip is to angle cut the ends of the fabric that will be rolled around the webbing. When you do the final roll the fabric will be even with the end cap. More of a cosmetic thing but gives a nice finished look.

Hope this helps

BTW this is where I got the idea for the no zipper bugnet on my gathered end hammock. The bugnet is made just like the bridge end cap.

[packeagle]

Got the hammock done finally she ended up doing all the sewing. I regurgitated all the forum info to her. Now we are working out bugnet and suspension. Looking to attach AHE cinch buckles to the suspension triangle. We have grizz's system of the soft shackles at the hammock with the triangle having nacra biners. I tried larkshead to amsteel whoopies didn't work. The triangle shifted making the hammock lean to the side of entry. Thinking of making a bury in the center to girth hitch the chainlink of the buckle.

Any advice on attaching a bugnet to the hammock around the end caps? Maybe a seperate bugnet?

Lastly, will a single layer 1.9oz hold my 250lbs in a bridge hammock? I know it will in gathered end hammocks, but are bridge forces stronger?

Another random thought. Would a ~36x60" UQ be sufficent coverage in a bridge. The design is only ~42" at its narrowest, and most pads are in the 20-25" range.

[packeagle]

Also thinking of directly attaching the cinch buckles to the loop at the center of the suspension triangle. So that the buckles are loose in the loop but the loop is directly attached to the triangle so no shifting can happen.

[packeagle]

Really looking for any thoughts on these ideas so I can start ordering supplies. I know that I rely on the forum a lot for advice, but this is where the people who have experience like to hang out. (yes this is a shameless bump) Maybe I need to start a new thread with a name that is slightly more relevant to my current questions.

[GrizzlyAdams]

...
Any advice on attaching a bugnet to the hammock around the end caps? Maybe a seperate bugnet?

See the way hangnup did his. Not around the end caps though. But the path of least resistance.

Lastly, will a single layer 1.9oz hold my 250lbs in a bridge hammock? I know it will in gathered end hammocks, but are bridge forces stronger?

when I've made bridges for others 250 is as high as I'd go with a single layer.
No engineering behind that, just a feeling that there's an awful lot of load on the webbing stitching around your butt when you first sit in the hammock. If you're hammock is going to tear, I think that's when and where it will tear.

Another random thought. Would a ~36x60" UQ be sufficent coverage in a bridge. The design is only ~42" at its narrowest, and most pads are in the 20-25" range.

None of my DIY UQ for the bridge are wider than 36". They're just fine.

Also thinking of directly attaching the cinch buckles to the loop at the center of the suspension triangle. So that the buckles are loose in the loop but the loop is directly attached to the triangle so no shifting can happen.

I've done that splicing at the apex, but without the fixed eye, the cord just went to the tree. No issues provided the usual bury length precautions are followed.