Dutch's New Ninja Figure-9 Improvement

[angrysparrow]

I've been having a PM conversation with Dutch this evening, and it would probably be easier to share attachments from it in a thread instead of PM.

Here's the back-story. Maybe Dutch will post his drawing as an attachment.

I'm a holdout for using Figure 9's for tensioning a tarp ridgeline. Sometimes I carry just one.

But I'm disappointed that they often bend after a few trips, and they don't work well with cording smaller than 2mm without slipping.

The bending is just a result of the 9 shape not being 'inline' to make the most of the strength of the material. I always wondered why they didn't start with an 8 instead.

I had a couple of free minutes today while listening to a conference call, so I drew up what I think a couple of better alternatives should look like. While imagining the scale, think of the smaller holes being *just* large enough to allow Dynaglide to pass through.

If you are inspired to work from or make either, I'd buy a pair.

Traffic Light -



Figure K (Eight K?) -

YOu mean to tell me the figure9 isn't the end all to all our problems??
I also bend them and they slip in windy conditions if you don't use a backup knot.

See if I have this correct. On the stop light you go through the middle hole then through the top hole the anchor it in the angle. On the figure K you do the same thing only anchor it in 2 angles.

The downside would be feeding it through the holes and the upside would be strength and it would be more inline.

I'm gonna think about this and get back to you. Since this is small it may be a great use for my TI.

There are probably a few ways to use either.

My idea is to leave it on the tarp line, by running the line up through one of the smaller holes, and down through another, just to keep it on the line. Then, the line goes around the tree, and back to the larger hole to pull tension...and keep the tension with the slot anchor.

The only 'running through' you have to do with the cord when setting up the tarp is through the larger hole to tension the cord. At least that's the idea.

I think these could be made very small indeed.

What if the larger hole was a hook so you don't have to thread it. Then you would esentially have an in-line Figure9 made out to TI.

I didn't render it yet. Something doesn't seem right, but that's closer to what you described.

I drew something in cadd and will try to show you.
Since I can't attach to a pm can I put it in the rant thread?

[angrysparrow]

More followup -

I drew this before your latest with the K configuration. I can revise it but what do you think about the dimensions?

I think it *looks* great.

The holes can probably be a good bit smaller. Maybe .1 inch each? And the wedge arm will have to be a little steeper to catch the cord well.

This is fun.

[Cannibal]

Ooooooo! I like!

[Dutch]

I just realized that angle is exactly the wrong way.

[angrysparrow]

More from the dispatch -

When I measure dynaglide it is 1/8th or .125 No tangle measures about 3/32 or .09375 so I think .1 might work for no tangle but barely I can make it any size you want. If it is too small I think you can drill it open…maybe possible. Honestly I haven’t tried to cut the stuff yet and may not be able to and then I have to take care of the rough edges…we’ll have to see about all that. I hear you on the angle and I might try to add teeth. What do you think?

I was thinking that Dynaglide was 2.2mm, which is .086 inches. But if you miked it, then I believe you! I'm running out of No-Tangle (finally!), so sizing it for spliceable cord would be best. No worry, though.

I also thought about the holes holding the cord. If it slips too easy, that would be aggravating. I wonder if the cord should run up through one of the holes, around to the other side of the 8, and the up through the second hole in the same direction as the first before going around the tree. Maybe a notch on the side for the cord to make that turn? Or am I overthinking it?

Teeth on the arm would be nice, but if the arm is tight enough to the body maybe not needed. I didn't know how much trouble that would be to cut and then smooth, so I just kept it simple.

[angrysparrow]

I just realized that angle is exactly the wrong way.

Ha! You probably got the bad idea from my Traffic Light drawing.

In my defense, I drew the Eight K first.

[Dutch]

email from ASI was thinking that Dynaglide was 2.2mm, which is .086 inches. But if you miked it, then I believe you! I'm running out of No-Tangle (finally!), so sizing it for spliceable cord would be best. No worry, though.

I also thought about the holes holding the cord. If it slips too easy, that would be aggravating. I wonder if the cord should run up through one of the holes, around to the other side of the 8, and the up through the second hole in the same direction as the first before going around the tree. Maybe a notch on the side for the cord? Or am I overthinking it?

Teeth on the arm would be nice, but if the arm is tight enough to the body maybe not needed. I didn't know how much trouble that would be to cut and then smooth, so I just kept it simple.

I didn’t mike it but I held it up to a ruler. I don’t know why they call rope the size they do but it is always way off, like twice the name. So if it is .125 then what do you say .150 for the holes and .175 for the hook? That will make it stronger.
So the notch should be betwwen the holes on the other side from the angle, How does that sound?

[angrysparrow]

I didn’t mike it but I held it up to a ruler. I don’t know why they call rope the size they do but it is always way off, like twice the name. So if it is .125 then what do you say .150 for the holes and .175 for the hook? That will make it stronger.
So the notch should be betwwen the holes on the other side from the angle, How does that sound?

I think you nailed it!

[Dutch]

I think you nailed it!

I'll make a new drawling

[Dutch]

...in the morning

Peace