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  1. #91
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highbinder View Post
    Hey Dutch,

    I've been thinking about your design a lot today, I looked back over the older threads and love how you refined it. I'm considering making my own, a simplified version. I have a few questions though,

    How is the fabric to sleep on? Other than cotton I've found pertex to be the most comfortable synthetic to sleep against, much nicer than polyester or ripstop nylon.

    Did you fabricate the hip belt and shoulder straps yourself or did you source then somewhere? I'm a big fan of those used on my golite rucksack, but short of canabalizing one I can't think where to get more.

    Is Velcro the lightest way to furl the edges, or would a small clip and a loop of shock cord be lighter?

    As a newb thread injection technician ( ) I need to ask as well: by what method is the material reinforced to bear weight? Just normal stitching on the velcro section the should straps fit to or is there more to it than that?

    Also, I've seen a lot of people comment on the trickiness of fitting a bugnet to a bridge hammock. I've also seen some cool mods like the changable endcaps. Im assuming you can fit a structural ridgeline to a bridge hammock so how about a bug sock style net?
    My choice of material changed every time. Every time is became more heavy duty because so much work goes into it I don't want a failure. I never slept on pertex, but my first question would be is it puncture resistant and do yo want it to be waterproof. I did find the Dyneema to have very little stretch and that helped with the shoulder squeeze. Other than that I wouldn't say I ever minded sleeping nylon or polyester.

    The first 2 versions I made the shoulder straps and used an old ULA hipbelt. The shoulder straps were copied from an osprey pack for shape. Th 3rd used shoulder straps because they are so much work and they just don't work as well as commercial ones. If I were to make another i would buy the shoulder straps again.

    I would think velcro is best because you have to lay on it. i use teh soft velcro for inside the hammock.

    The seam that has the velcro is a critical one. I use 92 pound test boot thread which is over kill. To make the seam you fold it and sew it 1 1/2" from the fold. Unfold it and flip it over. With the folded part laying on the wing sew 1/4" away from the seam. Then sew it again 1/4" away from that seam. remember to have your velcro in place and also the pocket to receive you poles to use as a frame. Other than that it is just a straight stitch.

    Bugnet is especially tricky on a bridgeskin. It has to be either removable or fold inside somehow. I made a simply on once and it tore the first time I rolled over in my sleep. Now I just don't take it when the bugs are out. I don't like endcaps because it obstructs my view and serves little purpose. it also leads to problems when folding in the wings. It can be done but it isn't as neat. A bugnet sock seems like a good idea.
    Peace Dutch
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  2. #92
    Senior Member Highbinder's Avatar
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    Ah that sounds sweet!

    I can definitely see the benefits of using dyneema for the fabric, I certainly wasn't suggesting petrex as a suitable choice. Im having trouble sourcing dyneema within the eu, so depending on cost I may consider 1.1 or heavier ripstop

    I see what you mean with laying on the velcro for the furlings.

    Where did you buy the straps?

    The bugs haven't bothered me so far, I haven't slept with a net since last autumn when the midgies (noseeums) stopped coming out in Scotland, an here in Spain I've been bothered more indoors with Mosquitos than out in the hammock!

    Bug net seems like a good compromise as it should simplify the whole affair. And on that line I don't think I'd bother with the frame supports. My current pack is frameless and I like it fine. I'm imaging i could use velcro for both the shoulders and hips (rather than the belt within the taco) and once it is attached I could stitch a breathable padded layer across the whole back section, open ended both top and bottom. I really like the mesh design on my golite so along those lines if possible. And that would stiffen the back up just enough, I mean what goes inside anyway? A stuff sack of sleep gear and clothes, a tarp, a cook kit, a bit of grub and a bag of miscelanities?

    The removable pocket was way high on the coolness but totally beyond me, so a simple stretch pocket will suffice.

    And then hiking poles for the spreaders. Which is one of many things i'll have to look into if I'm to attempt this.

    Less is better, besides if I had a badboy transformer rucksack blam hammock then Id be one up whenever a 10 item survivalist thread came up..

    Just one more question right now did you use the 420d dyneema or a differed grade?

    Seems like a good idea to attempt especially with the series grizz just posted!
    Last edited by Highbinder; 05-01-2011 at 16:18.

  3. #93
    Dutch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highbinder View Post
    Ah that sounds sweet!

    I can definitely see the benefits of using dyneema for the fabric, I certainly wasn't suggesting petrex as a suitable choice. Im having trouble sourcing dyneema within the eu, so depending on cost I may consider 1.1 or heavier ripstop

    I see what you mean with laying on the velcro for the furlings.

    Where did you buy the straps?

    The bugs haven't bothered me so far, I haven't slept with a net since last autumn when the midgies (noseeums) stopped coming out in Scotland, an here in Spain I've been bothered more indoors with Mosquitos than out in the hammock!

    Bug net seems like a good compromise as it should simplify the whole affair. And on that line I don't think I'd bother with the frame supports. My current pack is frameless and I like it fine. I'm imaging i could use velcro for both the shoulders and hips (rather than the belt within the taco) and once it is attached I could stitch a breathable padded layer across the whole back section, open ended both top and bottom. I really like the mesh design on my golite so along those lines if possible. And that would stiffen the back up just enough, I mean what goes inside anyway? A stuff sack of sleep gear and clothes, a tarp, a cook kit, a bit of grub and a bag of miscelanities?

    The removable pocket was way high on the coolness but totally beyond me, so a simple stretch pocket will suffice.

    And then hiking poles for the spreaders. Which is one of many things i'll have to look into if I'm to attempt this.

    Less is better, besides if I had a badboy transformer rucksack blam hammock then Id be one up whenever a 10 item survivalist thread came up..

    Just one more question right now did you use the 420d dyneema or a differed grade?

    Seems like a good idea to attempt especially with the series grizz just posted!
    I found the straps on ebay but I can't remember the manufacturer.

    It was 210d dyneema from thruhiker It was the only place I could find it. I also suggest a prototype bridge to get the width just right.
    Peace Dutch
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  4. #94
    Senior Member Highbinder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    I found the straps on ebay but I can't remember the manufacturer.

    It was 210d dyneema from thruhiker It was the only place I could find it. I also suggest a prototype bridge to get the width just right.
    I've found a local source of pu coated ripstop (1.9oz roughly) at 4eu a meter, so im going to order a couple lengths, if it sleeps better than my diy I'll go for it!

    Not sure if I can afford dyneema cordura (or rather do I trust myself with it, maybe it could go to a seemstress) so I wonder how normal ripstop nylon would fair

  5. #95
    Dutch's Avatar
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    You'll be fine with normal ripstop. Just gotta be a little more careful.
    Peace Dutch
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  6. #96
    Senior Member grok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post

    This is not light weight by any measure. My first one only weighed 1.7 pounds and used trekking poles for spreader bar. I have a theory about backpacks and it is the point of the backpack is to carry your load comfortably. Many manufacturers are trying to hit that low number and sacrifice real decent suspension. So don't make your 18 pounds feel like 25 so you have sup 2 pound pack. This version has 4.0 oz per yard material. The stretchy bugnet is heavy. The commercial shoulder straps are really padded and probably weigh almost a pound. So this version comes in at around 3.5 pounds. I wasn't going for ultra light I was going for ultra cool.
    Dutch, you just threw the weight of a tent/hammock out the window. Double duty cuts the weight in half! you are not carrying a backpack and a hammock, you are carrying your gear and sleeping in your pack. nice design

  7. #97
    Dutch's Avatar
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    This needed bumped.
    Peace Dutch
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  8. #98
    Senior Member gargoyle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch View Post
    This needed bumped.
    Shameless and good looking. How do you do it?

  9. #99
    Senior Member Catavarie's Avatar
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    My question is when are these going to go up on the website? I've always loved the idea of the bridgeskin.
    *Heaven best have trees, because I plan to lounge for eternity.

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  10. #100
    Senior Member craige's Avatar
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    Genius! Some serious skills Dutch and ingenuity!
    Btw we need a better range of dutchware in the UK!

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