My new thread injector

**Big Jim Mac** · 10-11-2010, 22:12

I do think it has better visibility. The other thing I notice over my other machine (a Hammockmaker, OK Dressmaker) is this Singer has a real flywheel action, so I have to stop a little sooner than I would have before. It kind of coasts to a stop. And the bobbin works so much nicer, this one is horizontal and the other one was vertical. This is gear driven, so no belts to slip or break. And I love how the machine threads, there's even a threading diagram inside the door.

I spent an hour playing with attachments, can't get either the hemmer or the binder to work. Anyone got a video on how that's supposed to work? The manual I downloaded shows directions for both but they don't make much sense to me.

BTW, I found a great place for machine parts:
ThayerRags Fabric Center
108 W. Grand Ave.
Frederick, OK. 73542
http://www.thayerrags.com

They have lots of donor machines, you can make an offer on the entire machine or on parts. Got back to me right away and they had what I was looking for.

**MacEntyre** · 10-12-2010, 05:41

Big, when you suddenly lift your foot from the gas pedal, the machine doesn't stop right there?

I don't think that is right...

**Big Jim Mac** · 10-12-2010, 05:46

It cycles once or twice, then stops. Also notice I can't stop it from cycling the needle when I loosen the stop on the handwheel.

**Lonely Raven** · 10-12-2010, 09:04

Originally Posted by Big Jim Mac

It cycles once or twice, then stops. Also notice I can't stop it from cycling the needle when I loosen the stop on the handwheel.

Yeah, that doesn't sound right. I can literally stop mine in mid-thrust if I need to. I've gotten it's rhythm down to where I can almost always stop it as the top of it's swing to turn/adjust my project and just stomp on the gas for the next run.

**nacra533** · 10-12-2010, 13:31

Originally Posted by Big Jim Mac

It cycles once or twice, then stops. Also notice I can't stop it from cycling the needle when I loosen the stop on the handwheel.

Machines with larger driven pulleys or those with multiple belts for reducing speed/adding torque will have the fly wheel effect and will continue a stitch or two.

My Sailrite LSZ1 carries enough momentum to punch at least one more stitch in heavy sailcloth corner patches, sometimes two after letting off the pedal.

If I have to stop at a certain spot, I'll use my hand to stop the hand wheel.

**nacra533** · 10-12-2010, 13:38

Originally Posted by Big Jim Mac

I spent an hour playing with attachments, can't get either the hemmer or the binder to work. Anyone got a video on how that's supposed to work? The manual I downloaded shows directions for both but they don't make much sense to me.

Practice on some reasonable fabric first. Nylon is very tough in a hemmer. It can be done. The key is feeding the correct amount of material into the hemmer.

I did this one handed while holding my camera phone with the other and watching the camera screen, so not the best video. This is a little heavier nylon taffeta I was making some kids hammocks from.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31EOwtBukGY

**Ramblinrev** · 10-12-2010, 13:39

There's a big difference between the old cast iron flywheels and the newer synthetic hand wheels. The fly wheels are great for balancing the mechanics and giving a good consistent stitch line with a less than perfect speed control. Sometimes my foot shifts weight and the machine will "stutter" a bit on a couple stitches from the change in speed. Them old flywheel machines had no such fault. You can stop the wheel with your hand. Or you can stop early and hand turn the wheel the few more stitches.

Now with the electronics you can get some where the needle will stop on a dime fully up or fully down. No more hand cranking but more electronics to go wonky.

**Lonely Raven** · 10-12-2010, 13:49

Originally Posted by nacra533

I did this one handed while holding my camera phone with the other and watching the camera screen, so not the best video. This is a little heavier nylon taffeta I was making some kids hammocks from.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31EOwtBukGY

Showoff!

Originally Posted by Ramblinrev

There's a big difference between the old cast iron flywheels and the newer synthetic hand wheels. The fly wheels are great for balancing the mechanics and giving a good consistent stitch line with a less than perfect speed control. Sometimes my foot shifts weight and the machine will "stutter" a bit on a couple stitches from the change in speed. Them old flywheel machines had no such fault. You can stop the wheel with your hand. Or you can stop early and hand turn the wheel the few more stitches.

Now with the electronics you can get some where the needle will stop on a dime fully up or fully down. No more hand cranking but more electronics to go wonky.

So you're saying his Singer (which is pretty much like mine) has enough mass to keep stitching? Maybe my gears need lubing then!

**Ramblinrev** · 10-12-2010, 14:02

Originally Posted by Lonely Raven

So you're saying his Singer (which is pretty much like mine) has enough mass to keep stitching? Maybe my gears need lubing then!

I can't say that without knowing more information most of which I wouldn't be able to deal with anyway. The size of the motor, the torque behind it, the quality and condition of the parts would all enter into that.

I wouldn't think it would hurt to have the machine looked over by someone who can assess the bushings and such and give it a good cleaning. Also it will only continue for a stitch or two. Not very long.

**pedro** · 10-12-2010, 17:01

Originally Posted by skyclad

What's your impression of the slant needle/foot arm? Better visibility? Any other advantages?

thanks

One of the advantages of a slant shank is supposed to be that the needle won't fray or abrade the threads of the material that you are sewing. I don't know how much truth there is to that, but that's what they say.