Anyone added an internal pole mod to a HG Journey?

[CVKealey]

I have a HG Journey (actually, a Journey II, the briefly-available Asian-built version) that I've used with a continuous ridgeline and external poles to spread the tie-outs. This has worked OK, but often results in the top section of the tarp being almost flat. I can usually offset this by staking one side of the tarp lower, giving a bit of pitch to the roof. For a little rain, this is fine, but snow is another story.

Anyway, I'm looking to see if anyone has modded this particular tarp (or something similar) for internal poles. Actually, just one in the middle would be perfect. There are 1/2" beastie-Ds in the middle of each side, which are just the right size for the pole tips I have. What I'm not sure about is how to keep the pole centered (lengthwise). I've got some zing-it I could use to fashion an internal ridgeline, but not sure how long to make it or attach it to the ridge tie-outs.

[cmc4free]

You could try this pretty easily if you have some shock cord and a couple mitten hooks or s-biners. I'll add a photo of how the shock cord is secured to the pole.

In the illustration the shock cord looks loose but the idea is that it has a mild, even tension on both sides.

[cmc4free]

Probably need a foot or so less shock cord than the length of the tarp's ridge seam, but might want to start long and retie shorter if needed after testing.

• The midpoint of the pole is wrapped with a small piece of tape (for grip).

• Tie the mitten hooks to the ends of the shock cord and then find/mark the midpoint of the total length.

• Pull a bight at the midpoint, slip on a small cordlock, and then girth hitch / lark's head the bight around the pole, centered on the tape.

• Pull the cordlock tight against the hitch.

• The length from the pole to the mitten hook should be near enough equal for both pieces.

Now when the pole is installed and the mitten hooks are clipped to the tarp ridge ends, you should have equal tension on each piece of shock cord, which should keep the pole upright and not tipped to either side.

There is a more elegant solution, which is just to sew a couple ties into the midpoint of the ridge seam and then seam seal that area. Just tie a bow once the pole is in place. Or buy a tent pole clip, attach it to a loop of ribbon, and sew that to the midpoint of the ridge seam, again seam seal that area. Then the pole clips into place without tying a knot.





I should clip the 'tongues' on those hooks. This isn't an application that needs them.

[CVKealey]

Perfect...thanks!

Probably need a foot or so less shock cord than the length of the tarp's ridge seam, but might want to start long and retie shorter if needed after testing.

• The midpoint of the pole is wrapped with a small piece of tape (for grip).

• Tie the mitten hooks to the ends of the shock cord and then find/mark the midpoint of the total length.

• Pull a bight at the midpoint, slip on a small cordlock, and then girth hitch / lark's head the bight around the pole, centered on the tape.

• Pull the cordlock tight against the hitch.

• The length from the pole to the mitten hook should be near enough equal for both pieces.

Now when the pole is installed and the mitten hooks are clipped to the tarp ridge ends, you should have equal tension on each piece of shock cord, which should keep the pole upright and not tipped to either side.

There is a more elegant solution, which is just to sew a couple ties into the midpoint of the ridge seam and then seam seal that area. Just tie a bow once the pole is in place. Or buy a tent pole clip, attach it to a loop of ribbon, and sew that to the midpoint of the ridge seam, again seam seal that area. Then the pole clips into place without tying a knot.





I should clip the 'tongues' on those hooks. This isn't an application that needs them.

[JollyRoger70]

I added an internal pole mod to a Journey by putting a ridgeline underneath with a loop in it roughly centered (I used an alpine butterfly, but I’ve noticed that my SLD tarp with a professionally done internal pole mod uses prusik loops), and adding short lines with loops to the center tie-outs on the sides. I used dyneema kite string for the internal ridgeline, so the added weight is negligible. I’ve since sold that tarp, but use the same pole with my Quest, just putting it at the head end since that tarp doesn’t have center side tieouts. I used cheap aluminum poles I bought from Amazon (marketed as tent pole replacements).


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[LowTech]

That's what I've done, prussics on an internal ridgeline.
I do a double interior pole setup on my 12' w/ doors and I just tied some light weight cord, that I had, from one ridgeline tieout point to the other. Then I looped it back on itself a bit so that I could tie it off w/ an adjustable friction hitch. That lets me adjust it away from the tarp as much as I want.
To that line I added a couple prussics which my poles go through.
I can slide the prussics along the line to change the pole angle and tighten the tarp as much as I want.

I never even take that interior ridgeline down. It's great for other things like lights, or clothes that need a place to hang, even if I'm not packing the poles w/ me everywhere.

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[Crawldaddy]

pics please?

[BigGreenMoose]

I've done the exterior poles over my ridgeline, but the interior mod seems to create even more interior space. Planning to add some 1/2" Beastee Dee rings on the four corners of my tarp to be able to use poles internally.

How did you guys determine pole lengths?

[cmc4free]

I believe the convention is just to make the pole(s) match the width of the tarp at the attachment point(s).

[LowTech]

Agreed, the width of the tarp min and could be a few, or several, inches longer since the interior poles do not have to go straight from point to point, they can lean more towards the door end or more towards the center. If the tarp has any stretch having poles a little longer means that when you slide the middle of the curved poles more to a direct line between points it will tighten the tarp.

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