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  1. #1
    Senior Member Hang Williams's Avatar
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    Wind river range - 7 day trip



    Ever since I got back into backpacking 3 years ago, I've been eyeing a trip to the wind river range. There have been many reasons it took this long to go and eventually I decided to just go solo rather than delaying it even further after 2 friends had to back out. Life's too short, make the most of it.

    I will say, I had a lot of time to think on this trip and during planning about a trend I've noticed where people go on backpacking trips that are cookie cutter routes. In discussing with others, THE Skurka wind river high route or THE cirque of the towers loop kept coming up. There were people I met going out of the Big Sandy trailhead who'd never heard of major destinations like Baptiste or Grave Lake that are arguably most easily accessed from that trailhead. Now, these were friendly conversations and all is meant well, but if it's my first time in this mountain range and your fifth and I have a better feel for where everything is located, then are you really exploring and adventuring? Also, God forbid, are you equipping yourself to extract yourself if something were to go wrong? It's just odd to me that there seems to be a large number of people that do these major hikes seemingly for the bragging rights of having followed an established "Joe mountain" published route and I think they're robbing themselves of an authentic wilderness experience. On the other hand, that meant that I didn't see another person for a 40, 25, and 20 hr period respectively during this trip despite the trailhead being packed because everyone else was jam packed on certain trails I avoided.

    Now that that rant is over....
    The good: this hike went spectacularly according to plan and one of the two off trail sections was the most beautiful valley I'd ever seen and I had the whole place to myself. I caught my personal best cutthroat and brook trout on this trip. I pretty much caught every fish I saw.

    The bad: the extremely windy conditions days 3-6 forced me to spend more time than desired looking for sheltered sites than my satellite imagery scouting afforded. Between that lost time and the wind itself hampering my ability to scout, fishing was less stellar than it could have been otherwise due to only getting to spend ~10 hrs on the water and it prevented me from fishing Grave Lake except for a feeble 20 minute attempt. Nothing could prepare me for the pass on day 6, though. Winds had to exceed 100+ mph up there. There was 0 chance of filming that. One gust almost knocked me over, I caught myself with my trekking pole only to realize 200 yds later that doing so had collapsed one of the sections. My ear drums felt like they were going to burst!!! I also may have broken my foot because, now that I'm off the trail, that foot continues to swell and can hardly put any weight on it. I first noticed the pain on Day 2, then put 5 more days and 50 more miles on it. I've got an appointment on Tuesday for diagnosis.

    I brought my warbonnet Blackbird xlc, wooki 20*, and 12' HG Journey tarp with doors on the trip which all held up as well as can be expected. The linelocs on the tarp ridgeline slipped several times when the wind gusts were over 40 mph. I think that's excusable. I eventually had to throw in a slippery half hitch on my 5th night to get any sleep and then ended up praying nothing would break when gusts were coming through strong enough to blow the sides of the tarp into the hammock with enough strength to move the hammock. Basically only got a half night's sleep between night 4 and 5 because of the wind and rain and that's after hiking an extra mile or two each night to find the most sheltered site.
    Last edited by Hang Williams; 09-03-2023 at 16:18.

  2. #2

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    Thanks for sharing the video. Sounds like an awesome trip. Did you do a gearlist online somewhere?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Hang Williams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinktheman12 View Post
    Thanks for sharing the video. Sounds like an awesome trip. Did you do a gearlist online somewhere?
    https://lighterpack.com/r/xdne50

  4. #4
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    Sounds like you got out their and grabbed it by the hojos. I've done a multi-day on a bad ankle, and you going five days on a bad foot is going hard. Hope it heals up or at least you get an accurate diagnosis soon. I hate, hate, hate high winds like that. They don't call it the Still River Range!

    Your (rather benign) rant is why I ditched hanging out with the ultralight crowd. Too much gear talk, too much peakbagging, not enough relaxing and exploring.

  5. #5
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    Dude! I have been dreaming of going to the wind rivers for a while now! That looks amazing. And that was a good sized Brook Trout. I’m glad you had the opportunity for some solitude. There are so many voices competing for our attention everyday. It healthy to get away and have to time to yourself. Congrats again man! Thank for sharing.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Hang Williams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ratatosk View Post
    Sounds like you got out their and grabbed it by the hojos. I've done a multi-day on a bad ankle, and you going five days on a bad foot is going hard. Hope it heals up or at least you get an accurate diagnosis soon. I hate, hate, hate high winds like that. They don't call it the Still River Range!

    Your (rather benign) rant is why I ditched hanging out with the ultralight crowd. Too much gear talk, too much peakbagging, not enough relaxing and exploring.
    I appreciate it. This was definitely the most extreme hike I've ever done with hands down the best scenery. I think my preference for my next week-long hike will be to slow down and do that extra relaxing. Maybe instead of 60 miles hiked and 10 hrs fished over 7 days, 30/30 ratio. For my weekend hikes, I really want to focus on upping my food game (no more knorr rice sides).

  7. #7
    Senior Member Hang Williams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach L View Post
    Dude! I have been dreaming of going to the wind rivers for a while now! That looks amazing. And that was a good sized Brook Trout. I’m glad you had the opportunity for some solitude. There are so many voices competing for our attention everyday. It healthy to get away and have to time to yourself. Congrats again man! Thank for sharing.
    It was as amazing as I'd dreamed. The views are on such a grand scale compared to anything else I've experienced that it's hard to describe. I'm used to places like the Sawtooths where the view from the main road is amazing and, while it's still pretty, you might get a single peak dominating a basin but not sweeping vistas from anywhere but the passes. In the Winds, the cirques just have these sweeping majesty about them that the pictures don't do justice. In the first off trail cirque I went to, the peaks were so tall that the entire valley was shaded 5 hrs before sunset and I just sat by the lake a few hundred yards away from such a massive cliff face in awe.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hang Williams View Post
    I appreciate it. This was definitely the most extreme hike I've ever done with hands down the best scenery. I think my preference for my next week-long hike will be to slow down and do that extra relaxing. Maybe instead of 60 miles hiked and 10 hrs fished over 7 days, 30/30 ratio. For my weekend hikes, I really want to focus on upping my food game (no more knorr rice sides).
    Short of buying a dehydrator, I can highly recommend Packit Gourmet. Not cheap, but great tasting. Momofuku noodle packs are the best Ramen-ish packets i've found.

  9. #9
    richtorfla's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing. Beautiful review. Video showed how spectular the places you visited were. Awesome. Caught some beautiful fish.

  10. #10
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    Sounds like a great adventure..

    My son has been on me about going, but Ive spoiled myself glamping and not really looking forward to meeting the most comfortable root or pointed rock to sleep on.. You like your hammock over a tent in the winds?

    Also wondered about surviving out there if you stayed put.. I wish I knew which lakes were good, because Finis Mitchell didn't stock them all.

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