Japan Southern Alps NB Solo Hike (5 days)

[alt.thomas]

Long story short: Planned for 6 days and summit Japan’s second highest peak (3192m) but spent two straight days in heavy winds, rain and low temps and I wanted to leave trail on a good note.

Day 0: Planning and false start
Many thanks to David Lowe who runs https://ridgelineimages.com and happened to have trekked southbound on the same course a few weeks prior to my planned start. I learned some more details and especially the places that were available for camping.

6.5 days worth of snacks and food, sleeping pad and bivy in case I needed to sleep on the ground.


After packing and getting everything sorted, Typhoon #7 was being tracked to pass through western Japan a couple of days before my start on the 16th.


Made decision to postpone trip. l changed my train and bus reservations. The typhoon passed and based on the news I’ve read, damage was relatively light.

However it did wreck havoc on the planes and trains with services suspended and/or delayed. It took days to finally recover.

[alt.thomas]

Day 1: Starting off



Left on Aug 21st with Shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station to Shizuoka less than an hour half away.
https://i.imgur.com/VYxtHI8.gif

From Shizuoka, waited for the 10am bus to take me to Hatanagi Dam. I was surprised seeing this huge bus roll in to take 8 passengers.


The ride took 3 and a half hours up winding and narrow roads with two rest breaks in between.


There were two stops along the course and I was shocked to see everyone leave first. I learned that all would be taken to another shuttle further up road where they would stay at a lodge before hiking around the southern sections.

It was now just me, the guide and the driver making our way to the final destination.


On my own at the start of the Southern Traverse


Spent 30 minutes with a road walk before spotting my first bridge crossing.


Start of the trail


Crossing the bridge (caution: language)
https://imgur.io/a/yI1do8a.mp4

Funny seeing the gradual degradation of the bridges the further in I go.








Met 5 people heading the other way and learned the trail was in good condition after the typhoon.

Camped by myself at an abandoned hut at Yokokubosawa that had running water and toilets.


There was even a clothesline and hangers to dry my washed clothes.


Day 1 by the numbers…

[alt.thomas]

Day 2

I did not sleep great and later realized that my “normal” sleep schedule aggravated this. I am a late sleeper often going to bed after midnight so there was no way I was going to sleep during hiker midnight. Lesson learned and will need to gradually ease into an earlier sleep schedule days before overnight hikes.

Legs felt fine and coffee did its thing and was able to finish the major ascent.


Reached the first lodge and campsite: Chasu Hut




Sat down and had breakfast.


Enjoyed the view of Fuji


Continuing upward and onwards






Turned east towards next hut and campsite at Hijiridaira.


There were two good places to hang and I opted for the one furthest away. I asked the caretaker if it was ok to set up my hammock but he had not seen somebody use one before. He said that I was ok so long as I don’t take up a neighbor’s space. Curious, he later came over and I explained my setup.


Taking up less than half of my allotted tent space.


Cooked dinner at the communal benches and talked to other folks about their trip. I spotted few of my fellow travelers who rode in with me on the bus and were now staying the night in the hut.

It rained overnight and I slept through most of it.

Day 2 by the numbers…

[alt.thomas]

Day 3: Weather quickly turns

Morning started well but turned on me after first ascent from the campsite.

Got colder


Got wetter


Got windy
https://i.imgur.com/aNi7z4X.gif

I felt all three magnified approaching my first ever 3000m peak on Mt. Hijiri (3013m)


Moving on through the suck




Spotted the emergency shelter and made my way there


Not spooky at all


But was renovated and very clean inside


Briefly spent time adding a layer of clothing and snacking before heading out again.







Made my down to next campsite at Hyakenborayama but they had no place to hang.



I did not want spend a miserable night on the ground so opted to spend 11,000 yen (10,000 yen if you reserved beforehand + 1,000 penalty if you did not).



They thankfully still had space in their lodge and gladly paid my fees. Needless to say I remained dry and warm inside.


Day 3 by the numbers

[Zach L]

That place looks amazing! It’s always a good time explaining how amazing hammocks are to people who haven’t used them. Glad you had a good trip! Thanks for sharing.

[alt.thomas]

Day 4: type 2 fun at its best

Woke up to morning mist which opened to a sun rise whilst climbing up from the hut.



But the weather gods had other ideas and reverted to even more colder, wetter and windier day the higher up I ascended.



Was freezing by the time I neared my first summit. It was around 2c here and was probably 32c in Tokyo right about now.

Shivering, I approached sanctuary and the caretaker welcomed me to rest in front of a heater. He bemusedly warned me not to stay too long else risking my will to move on.


After adding two more layers and a change of gloves, headed back outside for my first peak of the morning

Mt. Akaishi (3120m)


Continued onwards…




…through the suck.
https://imgur.com/a/bo7l7LU.mp4

Heard distant rumbling of thunder and I was reassured to find someone at the top of the next summit saying he heard the thunder too but did not see any lightning.

Mt Arakawa (3069m)


Here’s where things got interesting. Continuing on from Arakawa, I suddenly lost the trail. After rechecking my maps and backtracking a few times, I realized the trail had been washed away and an alternate route was made through the shrubs.

Photo I took looking back - I started at the ledge in the background and made my way through the wet slippery branches, through the winds and rain.


Thinking the worst over, I came across another washout and a narrow ridge line.

Taking a breather before my next adventure


I scrambled down wet rock and boulders before hitting the tree line.



The weather started to clear up in the afternoon as I reached another abandoned campsite (or was possibly closed early for the season).


Takaurayama


Plenty of good places to hang.




Took the site closest to the hut and outhouse.


I realized I forgot to pack my tarp ridge line system at the previous campsite and I had to improvise using my guylines from the Tensa Treez I brought along for the trip.


I took up 2 and half spaces and felt bad later in the day as other other hikers had to set up their tents farther away.


Day 4 by the numbers…

[alt.thomas]

Day 5: Leaving on a good note

Slept really well and refreshed.

Started little later than usual and started seeing more people on the trail.



Mind and body felt better and I had a really good feeling that it was going to be a great day.


Hello stranger


Just cruising along








Trail map: I started at the body of water in the south and have made up to the orange dot.


By the time I reached the next major hut/campground, I already made the decision to finish my hike. I had such a great day that I did not want the whims of the mountain weather gods to spoil my final day. Plus, it gave me reason to come back in the spring and finish the course.



Sanpukutoge Hut with two places to hang at the very end of the tent sites.


The prices of the items sold here






Made my way down to a bus stop that’ll take me back to town.

Had hours to kill and dried off EVERYTHING



First of many stops before reaching home



Final day by the numbers



The whole trip at a glance

[xMagnolia]

WOW!!! that's amazing. I wouldn't have made it past that last bridge, though. Your pictures are beautiful. Thanks for taking us along!

Charlotte

[Adventurous_Angler]

A place I never knew I wanted to explore.... Loved the pictures - Thanks for sharing!

[alt.thomas]

That place looks amazing! It’s always a good time explaining how amazing hammocks are to people who haven’t used them. Glad you had a good trip! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks! Unfortunately I donated my Stingerz and lines to him when I left them there. Hope he makes good use of it.

WOW!!! that's amazing. I wouldn't have made it past that last bridge, though. Your pictures are beautiful. Thanks for taking us along!
Charlotte

Thanks Charlotte, that bridge swayed more than i thought it would. Had constant thoughts of what would have happened if a person tried to pass coming the other way.

A place I never knew I wanted to explore.... Loved the pictures - Thanks for sharing!

Thanks! My pleasure