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  1. #1
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    DIY airline-portable hammock stand

    First time posting, after lurking for quite a while…

    I am getting ready for a trip where I’d like to bring my camping hammock. Tree connections are not allowed at the park, so looking to DIY a stand for a zero tree hang. My thoughts on requirements:

    1. Must fit inside airline luggage.
    2. Planning to use my rental car as the 2nd tree.
    3. I have never used a stand, but feel that I would worry less about a bipod stand as opposed to a single pole (for additional stability).
    4. Hoping to DIY with funds on a Home Depot gift card.
    5. Equipment is a 10.5 foot One Wind hammock + underquilt plus a cheap Wise Owl tarp.

    I have seen a number of DIY stands, with portability on the airplane a key consideration. I am thinking of trying to build something like in the “J. Falk’s Portable Hammock Stand” video, and would appreciate any thoughts. Would particularly like to hear the experience of anyone who has built and used one (or something else that would meet my requirements). Any other design that would be better??

    Thanks!

    https://youtu.be/paJipIw5E_c

  2. #2
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    Tensa Solo may be a good solution for you. You can see one 1:00 into this video below.
    Packs down small and light.
    Shug

    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by joelrsails View Post
    3. I have never used a stand, but feel that I would worry less about a bipod stand as opposed to a single pole (for additional stability).
    The main point of failure of either bipod or monopod stands is the anchor(s). As long as the anchors hold, both are quite stable. It stands to reason that 2 anchors to share the load are more reliable than one whenever anchor integrity is questionable. But a monopod has advantages over a bipod, especially but not only if you're already using 2 anchors and lines.

    Because only 3 points on the ground are required for stability, the redundancy of the 4th point on the ground with a bipod and 2 anchors has a cost in material efficiency. A single pole is lighter and/or cheaper for a given material. A pound of aluminum will bear more compression as one fat vertical tube than as 2 skinnier tubes in an inverted V.

    No matter how many anchors, a bipod is about as stable as the spread of its feet, and only on level ground unless the height of the legs is highly adjustable (adds complexity). A monopod, on the other hand, can always easily be oriented vertically regardless of slope, and its anchors spaced widely, say 6 or 8' apart, to allow say swinging in the hammock without the hammocker swinging beyond the spread of the bipod's feet. A monopod can be moved out of plumb deliberately to shift the load to a strong anchor away from a weaker: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIo6XWYKG5Q

    Finally there's the matter of the tarp. Typically, you want this higher than the hammock attachment point for better headroom, and directly above it to be centered on the hammock. With a bipod, you're now talking a third element that's not inline with either of the legs, for more cost and complexity. With a monopod, the tarp extension can be simply a continuation of the pole higher than the hammock and guyline attachment point.

    A bipod does offer more convenient setup when a single reliable anchor is available, say a solitary tree stump, boulder, or wheel of a vehicle unsuitable as a hang point. Its two feet are less liable to sink into soft earth than a monopod's, absent an anti-sink plate/rock etc.

    [warning: commercial pitch] Tensa Solo weighs 30oz, packs to luggage-friendly 1.5x21", includes integral tarp extension, and costs $77 at time of writing without anchors and lines, offering a hang point at 59". If you can do better DIY, you probably should.
    Last edited by Latherdome; 05-04-2023 at 11:28.
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    Tensa Outdoor, LLC, maker of the Tensa4, Tensa Solo, and Tensa Trekking Treez hammock stands: http://tensaoutdoor.com/

  4. #4
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    As suggested, I gave the single pole a try, and was really pleasantly surprised how easy and well it worked. Please ignore the redneck 2x4 and 100-feet for $5 “rope” construction in my test.

    I do think I will explore using fancier stakes or 4 stakes instead of 2, just for added piece of mind (and for use where the soil does not hold as robustly).

    The solo stand is looking like a pretty serious contender for what I am trying to do here…


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  5. #5
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    It gets more complex trying to dynamically balance the load across more than 2 anchors. 2 good (deep) anchors are a lot better than several more shallow ones lacking pretty sophisticated rigging to equalize the load.

    Our 40cm (16”) Boomstakes or DIY analog would be my suggestion for simplicity. These anchors began here on Hammock Forums as Alamosa anchors after the original poster.


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  6. #6
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latherdome View Post
    It gets more complex trying to dynamically balance the load across more than 2 anchors. 2 good (deep) anchors are a lot better than several more shallow ones lacking pretty sophisticated rigging to equalize the load.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm not sure I totally agree w/ that. I think that the dogbone run through a loop at the end of the line equalizes the pull because it can slide as needed to balance it out. Of course I could be wrong since I'm not a physics major.

    Here are a couple multi-stake methods I use,
    The first one can be three stakes, or just two if you leave the middle one out.
    The second one is a tried and true method used by big tent riggers and vehicle winching.

    "Sent w/o me knowing"

  7. #7
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    I get how the second photo works. I think the physics of it are partially comparable to how a boomstake works in preventing the top of the primary anchor from moving as much, making it so failure would require dragging the buried stake body sidelong through the ground. Regardless whether you see it that way, it’s definitely an effective method.

    The first photo, I’m not seeing how it equalizes the load across those 3 anchors. If you removed the middle one and just let the dogbone slide to equalize load on the 2 outers: I understand that working. But the middle anchor seems like it could prevent the side anchor lines from even getting taut, unless the middle is already pulling out, leaving the sides to bear most or all the load.


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  8. #8
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latherdome View Post
    I get how the second photo works. I think the physics of it are partially comparable to how a boomstake works in preventing the top of the primary anchor from moving as much, making it so failure would require dragging the buried stake body sidelong through the ground. Regardless whether you see it that way, it’s definitely an effective method.

    The first photo, I’m not seeing how it equalizes the load across those 3 anchors. If you removed the middle one and just let the dogbone slide to equalize load on the 2 outers: I understand that working. But the middle anchor seems like it could prevent the side anchor lines from even getting taut, unless the middle is already pulling out, leaving the sides to bear most or all the load.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That is exactly how I see it functioning. I was testing a longer, but lighter gage "sand stake" recently and had it bend over the top 3" where the ground was the softest. I figure it would have worked better if I'd attached the line halfway down the stake and made a little trench for the line so it didn't try to pull it up. Again, same concept, different method.

    On the two and three stake lines I do feel like the two stake method is the self balancing method and the three stake method is, as you say, a backup for a stake that may want to pull loose. It just happened to be something that I threw together quick in a moment of need.
    I am playing w/ a way to have three that balance out using one longer dogbone instead of the two that I was using in that photo. We'll see how that works after some testing

    "Sent w/o me knowing"

  9. #9
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    Hey joelrsails, it's possible that you may have already found the solution you were looking for!

    Storytime ... I once attended a kayaking seminar where the presenters shared their adventure stories. Each one had their own unique way of transporting their kayaks to the launch sites. However, there was one person who stood out from the rest. Instead of using having a kayak transported, he brought along a box of wood, a few supplies, and some tools. Upon arriving at his destination, he visited a local kayak museum that he knew had an exhibit of an Eskimo kayak frame. He used that frame as a model and built his own kayak in just two days! He spent the first day constructing the frame and the second day attaching the skin. After letting it set for a day, he was ready to hit the water.

    So you can just get where you are going, visit a Home Depot-type store, and buy a 2 x 2. My experience is, if you ask nicely, they will make a cut or two for you so you can reduce what might be an 8 ft length down to 6 ft. Then you can use it as you did your 2 x 4 in the photo. You'll have to use lashing instead of the I-bolts (unless you can get Home Depot to drill the holes too), but it is certainly doable.

    Some have tried a bipod design, adding a line to keep the ground end supports from spreading. But in another post, Latherdome has mentioned that all things considered, a single pole with two anchors usually works better than a bipod with one anchor - something like that. (apologizes to Latherdome if I got that wrong).

    Whichever way you go, mono or bi, It's just a stick or two at a hardware store, some lashing, and anchors (which you'd bring from home).

    One more comment on your photo ... in the past, there have been other comments about using the car luggage hardware as an anchor. One poster mentioned that because that rack is designed just to stabilize luggage (and let's face it - is seldom used), the rack might be attached just by sheet metal screw through the roof; i.e. not very secure. When I use the jeep, I attach to the kayak rack that "knows" it will be holding a load and is bolted on securely. But once I realized I didn't need two good trees (correct distance apart, nothing to interfere with the tarp, not border disputes with adjacent campsites), I just needed one tree and a second pretend tree, it opened up so many more acceptable campsites.
    Last edited by cougarmeat; 05-08-2023 at 13:08.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the reminder about the luggage rack. I had seen that concern in another video, and am using their recommendation of a strap running between the door and car frame, with a marlinspike'd dowel on the other side to hold it tight under load.


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