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  1. #1

    New Dutch hammock and ridgeline recommendations

    Hi. Dutchware has a 30.00 special right now on a camo 70d rip nylon/dwr coating 11' hammock, so I picked one up yesterday. Anyone have this fabric? Like, not like? Also, I'd like to make an adjustable ridgeline for it, so I can experiment with slightly different lengths. What is a simple but effective way to do that? Thanks in advance, tk

  2. #2
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    I can't speak to the fabric but you can add a ridgeline easily Easy knot on end to mess with using utility cord or get an adjustable whoopee sling ridgeline....https://dutchwaregear.com/product/ad...nes/#type-size
    Shug

    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  3. #3
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    A question is, are you going to use that ridgeline just as a yardstick to set the hammock end distances and maybe hang a few things from (organizer for cell phone, headlamp, etc.) or are you going to use it to allow hanging at less than optimum hang angle?

    If you just want it for a yardstick, about any kind of line will do. Just adjust your sag so it's in the "baby bear" category (just right), then tie your (non or minimal stretch line to one end, bring it over the the other end, tie it there and cut off the extra. Or you can put some kind of clip (S-biner) on an end so you can remove it.

    In setup, you just hang one end of the hammock and adjust other end so the line is about as taut as it was when you first set the length. I don't recall if the hammock ends get a little closer or further away when you get in it. If they move further away, your line and connections need to deal with that.

    That why many people use a structural ridgeline - one that can hold much more of a load - they are usually made of 1.75mm or 2.25mm LashIt or ZingIt (amsteel). You need to learn how to weave an eye at each end. Or you can buy one from the many vendors mentioned in the forum. Make sure it's adjustable because you don't know what length works best for you. The adjustable, structural, ridgeline is just a long whoopie sling. There's an eye at one end and the other end allows adjusting the overall length.

    Once you finalize the length that works for you, you can make a fixed line for that hammock and have the adjustable one for your next hammock. There will always be a "next hammock"
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  4. #4
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Amsteel made into a modified whoopie sling. It would be adjustable.
    To get a better grip on splice, make bury a foot long.

    Adjusts quickly and easily.
    You might like a 7/64 amsteel hammock ridgeline, while changing pants and loosing your balance, it will be good to know, you can grab hammock ridgeline to brace yourself if you are starting to fall, with one leg in your pants and the other stuck halfway.

    Good luck.

    I use a fixed length amsteel hammock ridgeline.
    It’s kept me from falling over, while changing clothes more than once.

  5. #5
    Guess this means zing it and lash it don't tie knots well? And yes, I would like to end up with a structural ridgeline. funny pants story, and thanks for the video Mr Shug.

  6. #6
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    I'm making a 2 mm Lash-it whoopie-sling for mine. Or maybe I'll try a UCR. If I do a UCR, anyone have guidance on the bury length?
    Iceman857

    "An optimist is a man who plants two acorns and buys a hammock" - Jean de Lattre de Tassigny (French Army General in WWII)

  7. #7
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceman857 View Post
    I'm making a 2 mm Lash-it whoopie-sling for mine. Or maybe I'll try a UCR. If I do a UCR, anyone have guidance on the bury length?
    I use a UCR for my hammock suspension and I made it from Myers tutorial. I can also check mine a bit later for bury length.
    https://youtu.be/ryrXxv7XuBU

    I also know that he has some on ridgeline mods.

    "Sent w/o me knowing"

  8. #8
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iceman857 View Post
    I'm making a 2 mm Lash-it whoopie-sling for mine. Or maybe I'll try a UCR. If I do a UCR, anyone have guidance on the bury length?
    Iceman, I’ve used whoopie-slings, but not UCR.
    If I was going to make UCR, I’d watch several YouTube UCR build videos. And then I would probably lengthen the bury. If they use a six inch bury, I would splice a twelve inch bury.
    UCR can be bumped and loose it’s grip.
    Usually a slip and grip knot-prusik is part of UCR to keep tension on far end of splice.
    A whoopie-sling is more likely to keep its grip, because of tension on both ends of outer bury.

    One of cool kids, who sometimes comes to Yates, has UCR and it works great!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    And then I would probably lengthen the bury. If they use a six inch bury, I would splice a twelve inch bury.
    I played around with splicing a UCR for hanging my hammock once, and learned the hard way about the bury length needed. I kinda figured since there's only supposed to be ~10-20 pounds of tension on the ridgeline anyway, that a UCR wouldn't likely slip as easily as it would for a hammock suspension. Since I have a little extra cordage laying around, I figured I would try an experiment with one UCR at the recommended-length bury, and one that is a few inches longer. I'll bring all the UCRs to the next Yates hang to get feedback from y'all.
    Iceman857

    "An optimist is a man who plants two acorns and buys a hammock" - Jean de Lattre de Tassigny (French Army General in WWII)

  10. #10
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    tomykay12, The woven line - ZingIt, LashIt, Amsteel - whatever you call it - is not designed for knots. The line is usually slippery on purpose. And if a knot is made, and it holds, it may be very difficult to untie after it's cinched up.

    So connections are usually made by weaving the line inside itself. I'll use the term Amsteel as those woven lines are usually made from that or a similar product of various sizes. In the forum the common sizes are 7/64th inch, 1.75mm and 2.x mm.

    The loop (ring) is called a "continuous loop" - sounds redundent, doesn't it? It means the loop is made by weaving one end into another (think of a snake swallowing its tail), rather than by using a knot to tie the ends together.

    An "eye" is a loop at the end of some line. A "dogbone" is a line with an eye at both ends. Then you get to various utility pieces, like lines that be extended or shortened - two common names for slightly different designs are "Whoopie Slings" and UCR. The term "knot" does come up when making sort of a ball stopper at the end of a line (used to holds a loop) - like on a soft shackle. Two common names are diamond knot and button knot.

    I've never been able to memorize how you make those. I have to watch youtube videos several times with stop action.

    For me, the final trick was learning to make an eye at the end of a line without having access to the other end. At first I figured I didn't need to know how to do that, but it comes in handy from time to time.

    To learn these, I invested in about 5 feet of thicker Amsteel - like maybe .5 inches or 5/8ths, something like that. It was easier to learn with a bigger example.

    A set of tools are required. knitting needles help, and there are "grabbers" to pull the line through. These are often found in sewing supply stores (Joanns).
    Last edited by cougarmeat; 01-27-2023 at 18:07.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

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