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  1. #11
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    Thanks for the clarification.

  2. #12
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Nice hammock! If you don't mind me asking, what are the dimensions? Is that a seam at the narrowest part of the hammock? (Also, what is your height, and are you a side sleeper?). The last thing I need is another diy project, but..............................
    Last edited by stevebo; 07-04-2022 at 23:25.
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  3. #13
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Stevebo, this hammock would be plenty long enough for your 6'4" frame. In fact, I worried that I made it longer than necessary. I'll let Syb answer that. There is, indeed, a seam at the narrowest part of the hammock. Syb wanted 1.6 oz. hexon for the torso section and 1.2 oz for the leg section. On consideration, I don't think much weight is saved, and the extra effort of sewing two pieces of lightweight fabric together is not worth it. By the same token, the pleat I used to put there when using a single piece of fabric for the whole hammock is not needed. That's especially true for a hammock intended for side sleeping. My current suggestions are: one piece of fabric for the entire hammock. I like 1.6 oz. hexon (or similar), but I have also made myself (140 lbs, these days) a PBH with 2.2 oz hexon. It doesn't seem heavy. There is more weight to be saved elsewhere than in the fabric. Syb's PBH is 52" wide at the head end, 33" wide at the center ridge, and 52" wide at the foot end. There is 58.5" between the head spreader and the center ridge, and 22" between the center ridge and the foot spreader. The hammock extends 12" beyond the head spreader to provide storage room. (6" would have been enough, in my opinion - I use less on my hammocks.) The origami end cap at the head end, a la Grizz, adds to the storage space, giving more usable volume for the length. It takes another 16" of fabric. The height of the center ridge can be changed for side sleeping by shortening the foot end spreader bar and, to a lesser extent, by adjusting the ridgeline. One thing I found with the canoe end was that it caused tension on the sides of the fabric under the foot end spreader and in the storage area. To partially alleviate that I connected the fabric to the main suspension line with a bungee loop, but had to run the triangle suspension tendons separately to the same point. I think using Grizz's origami end cap on the foot end, but with a longer extension beyond the spreader bar ( e.g. - 15") gives as much storage space and makes set-up/take-down simpler. It also uses less fabric, but construction is a bit more complicated. You would need to experiment with different foot spreader lengths before adding a bug net to this hammock. If a bug net that requires tension above the spreader bar is added, center ridge adjustment would done with the ridge line on first set-up.
    Another suggestion: the Peoples' Bridge Hammock was conceived as one that would be easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and comfortable. Hence, avoid making a Cadillac. Use 1/2" polyester webbing for the edges with Dutch's aluminum bridge hardware, instead of tendons in channels with Grizz-type soft shackle connections (unless you can already tie a lanyard knot in your sleep). You don't even need extensions beyond the spreader bars. I haven't tried HikingDad's end cap design, but it looks good. Hangnout had a simple end cap design, too.
    For a hammock like Syb's, you'd need about 4.5 yds. of fabric. Using origami end caps at both ends, you'd need less than 4 yds.
    I'm working on a set of instructions for a PBH that would fit someone under 6ft. Stay tuned. Also, ultralight spreader bars grow on trees, but they require pockets.
    David

  4. #14
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    Stevebo, this hammock would be plenty long enough for your 6'4" frame. In fact, I worried that I made it longer than necessary. I'll let Syb answer that. There is, indeed, a seam at the narrowest part of the hammock. Syb wanted 1.6 oz. hexon for the torso section and 1.2 oz for the leg section. On consideration, I don't think much weight is saved, and the extra effort of sewing two pieces of lightweight fabric together is not worth it. By the same token, the pleat I used to put there when using a single piece of fabric for the whole hammock is not needed. That's especially true for a hammock intended for side sleeping. My current suggestions are: one piece of fabric for the entire hammock. I like 1.6 oz. hexon (or similar), but I have also made myself (140 lbs, these days) a PBH with 2.2 oz hexon. It doesn't seem heavy. There is more weight to be saved elsewhere than in the fabric. Syb's PBH is 52" wide at the head end, 33" wide at the center ridge, and 52" wide at the foot end. There is 58.5" between the head spreader and the center ridge, and 22" between the center ridge and the foot spreader. The hammock extends 12" beyond the head spreader to provide storage room. (6" would have been enough, in my opinion - I use less on my hammocks.) The origami end cap at the head end, a la Grizz, adds to the storage space, giving more usable volume for the length. It takes another 16" of fabric. The height of the center ridge can be changed for side sleeping by shortening the foot end spreader bar and, to a lesser extent, by adjusting the ridgeline. One thing I found with the canoe end was that it caused tension on the sides of the fabric under the foot end spreader and in the storage area. To partially alleviate that I connected the fabric to the main suspension line with a bungee loop, but had to run the triangle suspension tendons separately to the same point. I think using Grizz's origami end cap on the foot end, but with a longer extension beyond the spreader bar ( e.g. - 15") gives as much storage space and makes set-up/take-down simpler. It also uses less fabric, but construction is a bit more complicated. You would need to experiment with different foot spreader lengths before adding a bug net to this hammock. If a bug net that requires tension above the spreader bar is added, center ridge adjustment would done with the ridge line on first set-up.
    Another suggestion: the Peoples' Bridge Hammock was conceived as one that would be easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and comfortable. Hence, avoid making a Cadillac. Use 1/2" polyester webbing for the edges with Dutch's aluminum bridge hardware, instead of tendons in channels with Grizz-type soft shackle connections (unless you can already tie a lanyard knot in your sleep). You don't even need extensions beyond the spreader bars. I haven't tried HikingDad's end cap design, but it looks good. Hangnout had a simple end cap design, too.
    For a hammock like Syb's, you'd need about 4.5 yds. of fabric. Using origami end caps at both ends, you'd need less than 4 yds.
    I'm working on a set of instructions for a PBH that would fit someone under 6ft. Stay tuned. Also, ultralight spreader bars grow on trees, but they require pockets.
    David
    Thanks for the info!!!! As always, you are a treasure trove of great information!
    Last edited by stevebo; 07-05-2022 at 21:05.
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  5. #15
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    WV, are you saying to use 1/2 inch webbing for the sides of the hammock? With webbing, how did you handle the "V"? Is the webbing cut into 2 pieces and sewn together at the "v"? If so, how did you fold the fabric around the webbing at "v"?
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  6. #16
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevebo View Post
    WV, are you saying to use 1/2 inch webbing for the sides of the hammock? With webbing, how did you handle the "V"? Is the webbing cut into 2 pieces and sewn together at the "v"? If so, how did you fold the fabric around the webbing at "v"?
    The first time I used webbing for the edges I folded it at an angle to match the internal angle of the fabric when it was lying flat, so I used a single piece. The ends were folded back about 8" and sewn with 10 rows of longitudinal stitching. I noticed that in use, that is, under tension, the angle disappeared and became part of a curve on the edge, so the next hammock I simply sewed the webbing to the edge without folding it. I pulled the fabric straight to pin it in place. Worked fine, and it was easier to fold the fabric over the webbing to finish it and add strength. The internal angle gets reinforced with a 4" piece of Wright's Blanket Binding. I use an 8" piece at each corner, over the sewn webbing loop. I'm planning a video of my next hammock build as soon as I accumulate the materials, but I'll send you a photo to show how I cut the fabric 1" oversize and wrap it around the webbing.

  7. #17
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    The first time I used webbing for the edges I folded it at an angle to match the internal angle of the fabric when it was lying flat, so I used a single piece. The ends were folded back about 8" and sewn with 10 rows of longitudinal stitching. I noticed that in use, that is, under tension, the angle disappeared and became part of a curve on the edge, so the next hammock I simply sewed the webbing to the edge without folding it. I pulled the fabric straight to pin it in place. Worked fine, and it was easier to fold the fabric over the webbing to finish it and add strength. The internal angle gets reinforced with a 4" piece of Wright's Blanket Binding. I use an 8" piece at each corner, over the sewn webbing loop. I'm planning a video of my next hammock build as soon as I accumulate the materials, but I'll send you a photo to show how I cut the fabric 1" oversize and wrap it around the webbing.
    A photo would be great WV!!!!!! Looking fwd to your video! Also, what fabric would you recommend for a person who weighs 240 lbs?
    Last edited by stevebo; 07-07-2022 at 17:01.
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  8. #18
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    Interesting design. I'd like to learn more.

  9. #19
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    I'm working on a set of plans that incorporate some more improvements. They don't have to be as fancy as Syb's to be really comfortable.

  10. #20
    Senior Member Syb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WV View Post
    I'm working on a set of plans that incorporate some more improvements. They don't have to be as fancy as Syb's to be really comfortable.
    It’s almost as if you’re calling me fancy.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Syb
    Enjoy the elevation

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