Every sil nylon I’ve had sagged like crazy every time it rained. Sil poly doesn’t .
Every sil nylon I’ve had sagged like crazy every time it rained. Sil poly doesn’t .
If you prepare for failure you will probably succeed.
Getting your tarp taut is not only a fabric issue, but also a design issue. I mostly use Warbonnet silnylon tarps and have had no problem to set them up without sag. But tarps with edge binding have always sagged. Probably because the edge doesn't stretch enough to match the inner.
Catenary edge cuts help a lot. Put more tension in the center of the panel.
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Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
“If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton
I agree with Hutzelbein in terms of tarp design affecting the "tautness" of a tarp's pitch. I would also add that the geometry of the way the tarp is cut can also cause certain areas of the tarp to not pull as taut as other areas. I think it's important to run the guyouts in the same direction that the corner pullouts are sewn. But depending on how the cat cuts are made (or if there are even cat cuts at all), following the natural angle of the pullouts may not stretch the tarp tight enough.
That said, I've had very good luck with my silpoly Warbonnet Mountainfly, and have no issues pitching it nice and tight. And the best part about silpoly is that once it's tight, it STAYS tight!
Catenary edge cuts help a lot. They effectively lengthen the edges which distributes more tension to the middle of the panel.
One must also pay close attention to achieving optimum guy line angle away from the tarp. And I think it actually helps to suspend the tarp under a CRL which avoids the very high tension in the RL portion and spreads forces more equally over the entire tarp.
Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
“If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton
Thank you everyone! I really appreciate your consideration and input!
I have a long trek to live under my new tarp (to continue), so I really want to make sure it's what I need. Your posts have helped a lot.
Ditch the shock cord if using it, don't use split rings, and crank it down if its a hex with cat cuts. The more aggressive those cat cuts are, the more it stays taut. Had my Maccat and other hex's 10+ years.
"I wonder if anyone else has an ear so tuned and sharpened as I have, to detect the music, not of the spheres, but of earth, subtleties of major and minor chord that the wind strikes upon the tree branches. Have you ever heard the earth breathe... ?"
- Kate Chopin
Singingcrowsings, hang your own hang of course, but know that opinions differ.
I use might use a Split ring on one or both sides of the ridgeline as sort of a fuse (if backed up by some cord so it doesn’t completely blow out). I’ve been in wind that was so strong it turned that “ring” into an oval. Better to destroy a split ring than a tarp. And Bungee isn’t just for getting a taut pitch. It allows the tarp, with enough wind force, to deform and “spill the wind”, then spring back into shape. Also, should someone trip over a guyline, there’s a little give before the force is completely loaded in the stake/guyline/tarp.
If I’m using my little MiniFly, I may not take those precautions. But if I’m using something with much more surface area, and there’s a chance the weather won’t be friendly, I might add some or all of what I’ve mentioned above.
But don't fret about it. The first time you camp in 25 - 30 mph wind, it will all become clear. You may find your tarp performed just fine with no extra split ring or bungee cord. Or not.
Last edited by cougarmeat; 04-30-2022 at 11:58.
In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.
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