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  1. #1
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    Unhappy So Confused UQ/TQ

    Ok all I have been reading and reading threads for a couple of days and im super duper confused. I'm wanting to make my own UQ and possibly TQ cause im a working man with a family and don't have a lot of money. from what I understand I need a breathable fabric for UQ is that the inner layer that goes towards the hammock? The outer layer shouldn't it be non breathable so it can be waterproof? Calendared non-calendared (I think that's how its spelled) all these different types of insulation. What would be the best kind of Fabric to buy to do this for I want a full UQ I do sleep kinda hot 11 foot hammock. Is this even possible for less than $70 bucks? 1.1 ripstop 1.9 ripstop is the only difference the amount that the fabric weighs? I don't even know where to begin I know that there is a lot here in this message and I am sorry but I am at a loss right this minute. Thank you in advance for any help with this!!

  2. #2
    Senior Member sidneyhornblower's Avatar
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    I've never made a top quilt but I have made an underquilt. If you want to make it yourself, I can recommend the kit from Ripstop by the Roll. It'll come with everything you need, more than you need, really. I had enough scraps left over for several stuff sacks and another small partial quilt that I use as supplemental insulation, plus a pair of booties.

    The outer layer of the quilt, the side that faces AWAY from the hammock, should be calendared material. It doesn't need to be water resistant and mine is not, but it does need to be calendared for wind resistance. The inner layer, the side that's up against the hammock, can be calendared or not. I don't think it makes much difference. Calendared material keeps the wind from robbing warmth by blowing through the quilt. You don't need 1.9 ripstop for a quilt. 1.1 or any of several other lighter weight fabrics will work just fine because they're not supporting your weight, only the weight of the quilt itself.

    RSBTR has instructions with the kit, but I'd recommend reading some threads here in the DIY section and watching some of the recommended videos to get a better idea of what you're up against. For instance, I think RSBTR includes grosgrain for the end channels, which I don't like because it's too stiff. I made mine out of ripstop nylon instead. But the kit is still a great way to get everything you need in one package. Link below.

    https://ripstopbytheroll.com/collect...t-blanket-kits
    "...the height of hammock snobbery!"

  3. #3
    Senior Member sunsetkayaker's Avatar
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    Calendared material is heated after it is made to close holes between strings. Both sides of the quilt should be calendared if you are using down. It keeps the down in. If you want water resistance you need an underquilt protector because there is more risk from holding condensation from your body in than the quilt becoming wet from weather. You can use the UQP when needed and take it off when not.
    The essential part of me can not be discussed here. Ask me in person.

  4. #4
    all secure in sector 7 Shug's Avatar
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    I'll offer some intel on fabric. Took me a while to learn all this but may give you some insight.
    Here are some downproof fabrics.....https://ripstopbytheroll.com/collect...nylon-fabric-1
    Shug


    Whooooo Buddy)))) All Secure in Sector Seven

  5. #5
    gunner76's Avatar
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    Making a TP andor UQ with down insulation is more complicated due to all the baffles. Making quilts using synthetic material ( I use Clamashield ) is much easier as you do not need baffles. As others have said if using down you will need
    to use calendared fabric as the heat process helps to keep the down from pushing thru the fabric.

    Check out Arrowhead as they offer Clamashield quilts at very reasonable prices if you are on a budget.

    Before you start ordering materials to make the quilts, price out the materials needed, down / Clamashield; fabric; baffle fabric; thread and needles ect. Factor in the time ( your labor cost per hour ) to make quilts and you may find it is cheaper in the long run to order a quilt from a vendor.

    Stay away from the quilts sold on Amazon as 99.9% of them are not worth the money.

    For $70 you might be able to make a quilt using Clamashield but not down.

    Estimated costs: for a down quilt

    Calendared fabric $5 per yard x 6 yards = $ 30
    1 lb of 800 fill down $25 per 3 ounces x 5 = $125
    Baffle fabric $7 per yard x 2 yards = $14
    add thread ect

    Also check out Rip Stop By The Roll as he offers some Quilt kits with every thing you need for making a quilt using Clamashield for insulation.

    Check the vendors as they do have sales and sometimes they have factory 2nd quilts. Also check out the Market Place on the forum for used gear being sold.


    What ever path you take, I wish you the best of luck.
    I am still 18 but with 52 years of experience !

  6. #6
    SilvrSurfr's Avatar
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    Quilts need to be breathable, so don't use waterproof fabrics. You also don't want a waterproof UQP. Check out the cottage vendors - they don't sell waterproof UQPs. Many years ago, 2QZQ sold a waterproof UQP but they stopped making them and went to breathable fabrics.
    Last edited by SilvrSurfr; 09-22-2021 at 20:08.
    "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds." Ralph Waldo Emerson

  7. #7
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    Thank you all for all the info so I have 1 last question as of right now. with the climashield I see that there are different weights from 2.5 Oz per square yard to 10 is the higher the ounce number the colder you can take the UQ, what would you suggest for teens - low 20's? Thank every one again

  8. #8
    PopcornFool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gayle08 View Post
    Thank you all for all the info so I have 1 last question as of right now. with the climashield I see that there are different weights from 2.5 Oz per square yard to 10 is the higher the ounce number the colder you can take the UQ, what would you suggest for teens - low 20's? Thank every one again
    Temperature ratings are very subjective. Some folks sleep warmer than others.

    Check out this link: https://ripstopbytheroll.zendesk.com...mashield-Apex-

    It should should help answer your question.

    And welcome to the forum. You'll find a ton of insight and a welcoming community here.
    ~ All I want is affordable, simple, ultralight luxury. That’s not asking too much is it?

  9. #9
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    Just a couple of tips.

    You need a fabric that is downproof.
    This is generally considered to be threadcount of 250 or over-this is the number of threads that are in 1 square centimeter.
    Anything smaller and down escapes through the gaps.

    Most synthetics exceed this.

    Shop around at fabric stores if you want the best deals or use the pro shops advertised here for the kits.

    I just finished my top quilt 2 days ago(after being in the works for 3 years)

    If you are going the whole hog and doing everything yourself,here is a little tip for longtidudinal baffels-stops the down shifting to the sides and leaving the top with cold spots but still allows you to shift down up and down the length.

    Start by marking your baffel lines on the top and bottom fabric and fold and sew a single run lengthwise.

    Cut your baffels whatever height(this would be the width of the strip when cutting it) plus a sewing allowance of 10mm for each side.
    Sew one edge seam good faces together,turn everything rside out and do a double seam-one run at a time unless you have a twin needle.

    Starting from closest to this seam sew your baffel to the "rib" previously created on top and bottom.

    The last outside seam you need to sew together blind (double seam from outside because you cant get to the inside)

    In the diagram the black and red are the top and bottom of the quilt,the purple is stitching placement and the green is the baffels.

    One thing to note is that down gets everywhere.
    Fill the baffels in an unventilated room that is easy to clean up after and use a facemask-easy to get in these covid times.


    Sorry for the diagrams being sloppy-drawn on my cellphone.

    And the final one is the job done-without the footbox zip yet as everything is still in lockdown
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    Im gonna have to add my 10 cents worth here.

    My quilt ,just finished 2 days ago is posted seperately in diy and on this thread.


    My fabric cost $3 per meter.
    9 meters of fabric used and not even all 9 meters due to one length being for the 9 baffels at 80mm wide each-from a 1500mm wide drop.

    My down was from a "donor" duvet sourced from the sallies-high quality goose down-for $15 dollars.

    And all these prices are in New Zealabd dollars which is somwhere around 80% value of yours,AND the fact that EVERYTHING is so expensive down here due to shipping to the *** end of the world,and 4 lots of dam tax on everything.

    YOU ALSO DO NOT NEED TO FACTOR IN YOUR TIME to make these.

    Your not doing anything else with the time so its NOT CHARGEABLE as if you were in business and selling the end product.

    Any time spent is MONEY saved.
    We all have some time to spare even if its needs to be reorganized.
    NEW materials are not tge only way forward either as my second hand duvet proves-i bought this 3 years ago specifically for my quilt project and ive only just finished the tq 2 days ago(3 day build and about 9 hours all up while on lvl 4 covid lockdown)

    I just need to turn my remaining duvet into an underquilt.
    Last edited by jadekayak; 09-23-2021 at 23:54.

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