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  1. #1

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    How many times to wrap a tree strap?

    I am fairly new to all this. I have 1” straps that I generally wrap at least twice. Sometimes three times which I am starting to doubt myself about. It is sort of a pain to get the end lined up right and if you need to adjust the height it is definitely more difficult. And longer hangs would be very difficult as the height would make multiple wraps complicated.

    But more wraps give you a more secure anchor on the tree and reduce pressure. At least in my opinion though reading historical posts, this may be a contentious issue. I view the tree as a pulley if the straps can move freely. I think more block and tackle (with some frictional losses) and each loop is a direct reduction in normal force (1/2, 1/3, 1/4, ...) per strap. Diminishing returns for sure after the first wrap with added annoyance if one needs to change height.

    And how much does that pressure reduction matter? I bet it depends on the type of tree a lot. Bark thickness has to matter how much the tree will even notice.

    So yeah. What do people do?

    I am sort of thinking one extra wrap would make a solid anchor on most trees and be fairly easy to adjust. Though maybe if I am hanging off a good sized conifer just once as the rough bark is going to make for a good anchor.

    Last edited by Sean McC; 09-14-2021 at 00:16.

  2. #2
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    Most of the time, most people only go once around the tree. You're correct in thinking that extra wraps are easier on the tree. It can be a bit of a pain but, if you're willing to do it, that's a nice thing. Of course, as you note, it probably doesn't matter at all on a tree with heavy bark. In most cases I don't think extra wraps are typically needed to achieve a solid anchor. Sometimes an extra wrap is just a way to "use up" surplus strap.

  3. #3
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    My take is that this might be true if the bark had little or no friction and the strap were free to naturally equalize the forces. So it might apply to some extent to trees with smooth bark.

    What is more important (as I put on my pretend-engineer hat) is the length, and therefore angle, of the V formed by the strap at the tree end. Just as a shallow hammock suspension angle puts more stress on the straps, so does a shallow angle created when the tree straps are snugged right up to the tree, as compared to a longer V when the connection (apex of the V) is some distance away from the tree.

    A couple of times I've experimented with some of the very light (3.3g/ft, 900lb rating) polyester straps, cinched right up to the tree, and one fine day it occurred to me that this probably isn't a good idea. Really dumb, in fact.

    The problem with the longer V, of course, is that the strap tends to slide down the tree while I'm trying to set up the hammock, so I've been thinking lately about ways to address this. Not as big a problem with rough-barked oak as with beech. In this instance the extra wrap you suggest would definitely help in holding the strap up while the connection is made.
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
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  4. #4
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    While most hammock campers put straps around tree once, I put straps around tree twice. I believe the round turn (two wraps) gives a more secure grip on tree.

    This tighter grip on tree can lessen chances of strap sliding down tree, lowering hammock and scraping bark and scraping tree strap

    With larger circumference trees, I use only one wrap. With more strap on the tree, there is more friction to hold strap securely. And fatter trees take up more strap length

  5. #5
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    While most hammock campers put straps around tree once, I put straps around tree twice. I believe the round turn (two wraps) gives a more secure grip on tree.

    This tighter grip on tree can lessen chances of strap sliding down tree, lowering hammock and scraping bark and scraping tree strap

    With larger circumference trees, I use only one wrap. With more strap on the tree, there is more friction to hold strap securely. And fatter trees take up more strap length
    I've been using 10' straps for a while but might have to re-think this if I'm going to multi-wrap *and* make a longer V!

    Or maybe just leave well-enough alone? Grrrr....
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmoulder View Post
    I've been using 10' straps for a while but might have to re-think this if I'm going to multi-wrap *and* make a longer V!

    Or maybe just leave well-enough alone? Grrrr....
    I just don't envision any substantial "V" in the hammock suspension. Typically a "V" would occur in the tarp suspension, if at all.

  7. #7
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TominMN View Post
    I just don't envision any substantial "V" in the hammock suspension. Typically a "V" would occur in the tarp suspension, if at all.
    Correct, just a V at the tree end. I'll do some pics when I get a round tuit.

    I thought I was done experimenting but I reckon I'm not!
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  8. #8
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmoulder View Post
    I've been using 10' straps for a while but might have to re-think this if I'm going to multi-wrap *and* make a longer V!

    Or maybe just leave well-enough alone? Grrrr....
    Cmoulder, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
    One of the pleasures of hammock camping, is you get to craft your own unique image into your campsite.
    If something has been working for you, the last thing you wanna do is mimic any of your hammock friends, least of all PG dude—with Barney Rubble eyes

  9. #9
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    I carry 5-foot huggers in 2-inch for anything they will reach around and 15-foot straps in 1-inch for larger trees. I will sometimes double wrap because once the suspension has been weighted it is less likely to want to move and dyneema straps are slippery.

    Seems like a lot to carry but I am rarely in established campsites and use everything above quite frequently especially when using straps on the tarp ridgeline. My leave-no-trace standard extends beyond not harming the tree to ideally not being able to tell someone hung at the location entirely. No more impact than a couple of deer bedding down for the night. The PNW has ridiculous trees of all shapes and sizes and they are often covered in delicate moss or lichen or have platy or easily markable bark. I also prefer having good tension on my tarp ridgelines so often use straps because nothing slices like 1.75 dyneema in a windstorm.

  10. #10
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    One picture being worth 1K words... here's 2K To maintain the V config, however, requires a fixed knot and not an Evo loop, slipped buntline or other sliding friction knot. Bowline would be good, but I use a Lapp knot which is easier to tie... no reeving.

    Extra wrap, with knot tied away from the tree to make a longer V:



    View from the back:

    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
    “If everybody is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.” ~ Gen. George S Patton

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