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  1. #11
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    I’ve never had a UCR, all me wondering and guessing
    Some things that reduce chances of UCR failing and lowering you to the ground.
    Have an adequate length of bury
    Milk the bury
    Use a small diameter cord at far end of bury tied in a prusik or klemheist to help prevent any motion from loosening bury

    Outer part of bury or sheath 7/64 amsteel
    Inner part of bury or core 1/8 amsteel!!!
    Hard to splice, but it can be done—and your UCR will have a death grip, hanging on for dear life…never letting go

    Quick field fix, if your UCR lets you down while on a camp out.
    Set UCR and hammock suspension close to desired height
    Milk bury
    Tie bury in a tight overhand knot, tightening overhand knot and milk bury again on both sides of overhand knot.

    If you cant or don’t want to disconnect hammock from suspension
    Set hammock close to desired height
    Milk bury
    Tie marlin spike hitch in bury
    Tighten MSH and milk bury again on both sides of MSH

    The toggle used in this application must be strong and crushproof (no twigs)
    Also toggle must be smooth, not sharp so it’s ends do not cut your tarp.
    For toggle, you could use a carabiner or a spoon or even some wadded up rope or strap or a stinky sock rolled real tight

    Also after setting UCR and milking bury, there will be loose amsteel hanging down at bury exit. You can tie a slip knot in loose amsteel about an inch from bury exit. A slip knot, not to be confused with a slipped half hitch!
    If UCR slips, it will slip only that one inch—the slipknot is too fat to travel through bury!

    Good luck

    If I got paid to tell lies
    It just wouldn’t be as much fun
    Most of the basics you list I've already done except the knotting and as others have said, it defeats the purpose.

    The splicing w/ a smaller over a larger line I found interesting when you mentioned it on another thread. Of course all my splicable line got used making up dogbones and shackles so that experiment will have to wait.

    Oh, and I don't have an issue of it slipping. Well once when it was new and the line seemed really slippery, but once I got it a bit "dirty" from use that stopped.
    Last edited by LowTech; 09-13-2021 at 16:19.

  2. #12
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    physics wise, it's the same, as gravity is inconsequential here, to keep the tail tensioned (you need other means to ensure that, unless you're okay to hang something as you mentioned)

    i consider bury to the hammock and main line to the treestrap the "correct" way for a very simple reason: the adjustment stays at the hammock, where i want it. on longer hangs, this becomes significant (longer also means higher up the tree, to maintain a reasonable angle).

    to maintain tension on the tail, i either use a good quality friction hitch (VT, or blake), or (lately) a rigid piece that will bend the tail part of the bury (this is extremely effective, and much nicer imho that the friction hitch), for both these solutions gravity is irrelevant. i quickly discarded the idea of hanging something heavy on the tail, too many logistical questions: if it rains, do i mind if that thing i hung there gets wet (cause the tarp will likely not cover it), the shoes are not an option, i want them by me so i am not forced to walk barefoot unless i want to (in the middle of the night...), how heavy should the object be, how much will it bounce when getting in and out, arggghh, just no
    I see your point about it getting farther away from the hammock used that way. Which could make it harder to access.
    I do have the loose end attached to the main line. Not w/ a prussik, but using the method that Myers uses of having it wrap around the main line a couple times.
    The part about the weight bouncing around and out in the rain is valid as well.

  3. #13
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    (a bit offtopic, but maybe it helps)

    here's a few pics i took for the other thread where i explained how to _totally_ slip-proof a ucr just by bending it a little.

    the carabinner is not my favourite method, but it's something you will very likely have handy, and very easy to test. the abused one in the pic is a crappy keychain aluminum carabinner, maybe 4mm thick or so. the s-hook is way overkill, but makes for good photography to demonstrate the principle (it's steel and about 8mm thick iirc, quite heavy. for practical use, i just use 4 or 5 mm s-hooks, that are maybe 2cm long or so. they don't need to be strong, just rigid enough. this method is, in my testing so far, the most reliable and the least fidly to use (maybe not as light or compact as a friction hitch made of atwood microcord, but oh well)

    Attachment 186452

    Attachment 186453

    Attachment 186454
    I saw where you'd posted that up on another thread. It's interesting but I would have to have a good reason to add more metal back into my pack. As it is I don't even carry binners any more, it's all soft shackles.
    And like I said previously, I'm not having a slipping issue just mental thought exercise.

  4. #14
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    i am exactly the same, all softshackles and pieces of chord of various materials and sizes. this is why it took me so long to go back to one of the first ideas i had when i was trying to find a solution to stop slippage and at the same time make it easy to operate: i knew this worked, i just didn't want anything rigid and metalic in my setup. it turns out that with the 4mm s-hooks one adds very very little weight, and they are so small that they are not offensive (the one in the picture above is huge, of course, i wouldn't use that regularly). i still want to make these rigid pieces out of composites, but i haven't had time so far (i made one attempt which was a...ahem partial success. i need to correct some things and try again).

    what i like about this solution, and what convinced me to accept it is the best i found so far, even though it's [sigh]hardware is how easy it can be made to work, it works so well that, strictly speaking, the ucr doesn't even require milking anymore (although it's still recommended). you can literally have a one handed operated UCR, which i think is nifty, if not groundbreaking. this means it is very easy to even hand it to beginners, without having to explain too much about how to use it. i still need to document the whole setup properly, but things have been busy here, so i don't know when i'll get around to it

    Quote Originally Posted by LowTech View Post
    (...)
    And like I said previously, I'm not having a slipping issue just mental thought exercise.
    yeah well, i'm the duke of thought experiments, so careful what you wish for

  5. #15
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    Stroudsburg, PA
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    When I use a UCR, I attach the "constrictor" to the hammock or tarp. and then have a prusik on the other side to maintain tension.

    In my testing the prusik doesn't need to hold very strong.. Just enough to add a little pressure on the far end of the constrictor. Once it gets a little tug, it forces it to constrict enough to were the prusik is no longer holding anything.
    I guess I just always feel safer with the hammock attached to the constrictor, so my weight is pulling it tighter.

    But to be honest these days, I only use the UCR for the tarp. and I use a whoopie sling for my hammock.

    I still have a couple sets of UCR's hanging around, so if you have any other questions, just let me know and I can set it up and take some photos.

  6. #16
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Phantom guess 34567
    If while camping your friends UCR has slipped, lowering to ground.
    A quick and easy camp fix

    Adjust UCR suspension to height
    Milk bury
    Take a short length of zingit or other tarp guyline
    Tie a slipped double constrictor knot around bury.
    Make sure bury is milked tight
    Tighten slipped double constrictor knot around bury—real tight
    Make sure bury is milked on both sides of slipped double constrictor knot

    This should put enough crimp in bury to prevent slipping
    And in morning easy enough to remove slipped double constrictor knot by yanking the ripcord (loose end)

    You will find double constrictor knot in Grog Knots app—animated knots
    You will have to add the slipped part

    If you get out there and have forgotten slipped double constrictor knot….reasonable enough
    Tie a slipped double overhand knot instead!
    Tighten the fool out of your knot.

    Good luck

    Maybe one of my solutions will help someone out of a jam one day. And then again…No

    That’s ok, I have fun trouble shooting, solving problems, as long as they are not too complex

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    ...

    That’s ok, I have fun trouble shooting, solving problems, as long as they are not too complex
    That was hardly complex at all!

    All you left out was the stitching and soaking in epoxy or superglue!

  8. #18
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Lol hahaha

  9. #19
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    Buford, GA
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    My UCR has the tailpointing away from the hammock, but thats because the fixed eye on the UCR connects to my hammock as an SLS. This allows the main line to hang naturally to the ground through the UCR. The UCR tail is tied into a prussik on the main line but I also have a 16+" bury on 3/16" Amsteel. I've never had the first problem with slipping in more than a year. I did get some slippage on 7/64" Amsteel but may have been attributable to a slightly short bury and a 260 lb rear.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  10. #20
    I hang my hammock from the shuttle end of the UCR, if nothing else it gives you an extra water break.

    IMG_20210916_164259.jpg
    IMG_20210916_164358.jpg

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