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  1. #21
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daibhead View Post
    Cool, thanks! Yeah, that would solve the dyneema prusik problem for sure! Have you tried that particular method yourself? I’ll have to give it a go, as soon as I can get my hands on some more amsteel.
    I haven't, but I do have a UCR on one end of the hammock, and I have two made up so that I could use one on the other end of I wasn't using just a dogbone. That would let me move farther away from the tree at that end, or if I had a longer span that I needed to center myself within.
    Each UCR that I made has about 12' of line that it can adjust along. Do I need that much? Probably not and will end up shortening the line down to want I "really" need once I've used it a lot and figured that out.
    It was the 12' on each side, if I set up w/ a UCR on both ends, that had me thinking "what it they weren't two separate 12' lines and just one main line that they both rode on?"

  2. #22
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    I use about 75' of line to get across a maximum of about 30-35' of span between trees. More than that and the sag in amsteel (even when pulled straight prior before stretching) puts me on the ground (or within inches of it) even with the tree straps 8' up. That rope started at 100' but I quickly found 50' between trees was just impractical as well as unnecessary. A fixed eye on one end and a UCR on the other has been a great approach IME.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  3. #23
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daibhead View Post
    Hey everyone, I’m looking for some input on a couple ideas I had.

    First, why doesn’t anyone create a continuous ridgeline of amsteel suspended between two trees, and then hang their hammock from prussics on that ridgeline? I’ve seen it done with rock climbing rope because that’s what was on hand. Seemed to make sense, and it could potentially use less amsteel than a whoopie at either end.

    My second idea is similar to the first. If you’re going to use two amsteel whoopie slings and a zing-it structural ridgeline anyway, why not create a zing-it dogbone ridgeline, then make your adjustable loops of the whoopie slings thread trough the bights on the dogbone? It would permanently connect the three, effectively creating a bi-material, adjustable, continuous ridgeline. Then you can use toggles or carabiners to connect your hammock to the dogbone.

    Has anyone tried either of these methods, or have any good reasons not to bother trying them?

    Thanks!

    Btw first time posting!
    Prusiks don't work with Amsteel... too slippery.

    Just use webbing and tie to hammock CL with a Lapp hitch, Becket or J-Bend. Attach webbing to tree with Evo loop.

    There's no need to make it any more complicated than that, although there seems to be a widespread and irresistible compulsion to do so.

    Just my dos centavos and daily rage against the machine.
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  4. #24
    New Member Daibhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    also do look into softshackles, you might like them

    I love the idea of them. Just not sure I trust them as much as a carabiner. Isn’t the button knot itself a weak point? Also I haven’t been successful tying a button knot yet anyway…




    Quote Originally Posted by cmoulder View Post
    Just use webbing and tie to hammock CL with a Lapp hitch, Becket or J-Bend. Attach webbing to tree with Evo loop.

    If I understand you correctly, wouldn’t that require me either to find perfectly spaced trees every time, or to carry a lot of webbing? And it still leaves me needing to attach a separate structural ridgeline.
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  5. #25
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    softshackles (the "classical" ones) are not a drop in replacement for carabinners, that's why we call them soft-shackles rather than soft binners, i guess. (i have been working on designing and testing something more carabinner like, in terms of ease of use, but i have yet to document that).

    still, having said that, for some purposes they are superior or just as good. an "average" (so not great) softshackle made of dyneema will be good for 200% the single line strength, with most 3mm dyneema that means nearly two metric tones, which is very near to a climbing rated carabinner. having a soft, light, climbing rated carabinner ready in my pocket, without getting in the way, is something only dyneema softshackles can provide.

    on the other hand, they do have low melting point as dyneema starts to go "soft" right around water boiling point (and melts altogether not long after that), and not being rigid they have some limitations (but also some advantages their lack of rigidity provides). in most cases, if you don't need to connect and disconnect every few minutes, and if high speed/friction applications are not in the profile, then softshackles are most likely better. if light weight and lack of impact damage (as in: won't kill you if it's slung your way at high speed) are also important, then softshackles are the only solution.

    in other words: figure out for yourself what they are for and what they are not for, but "you have to know" .

    ps: the button knot is not the weak link in the current softshackle design, the brion toss button knot was designed to be strong enough so the shackle breaks elsewhere first, namely where the single strand of dyneema makes the u-turn just under the head of the knot, so it's basically the "Capture loop" not the button knot which fails, in a modern good quality soft shackle (and this is how they reach well over 200%, 250% iirc is common for a well tied and tightened one, with the button knot)

  6. #26
    LowTech's Avatar
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    I've been using Myers "fast shackles" which use a double overhand knot on a section of back splice.
    I've used them both as a soft shackle in a loop and w/ just the eye of a dogbone on the knot.
    Haven't found any rolling of the knot at all.

    They are so easy to make that I wipped out a doz pretty fast.

  7. #27
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daibhead View Post
    If I understand you correctly, wouldn’t that require me either to find perfectly spaced trees every time, or to carry a lot of webbing? And it still leaves me needing to attach a separate structural ridgeline.
    The conventional setup for a GE hammock is built-in structural ridgeline and continuous loops that are separate from the suspension webbing or cord. It is done this way so that the suspension can be replaced, since it is very likely that the suspension webbing (or other material) will wear out before the structural ridgeline will need to be replaced, if ever, since an Amsteel structural ridgeline will in all probability outlast the hammock itself.

    I don't know what you mean about "perfectly spaced trees every time" because the knots can be tied anywhere on the suspension webbing, whether 6" from the tree or 10 feet from the tree or anything in between.

    Last edited by cmoulder; 09-06-2021 at 12:07.
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ)
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  8. #28
    New Member Daibhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowTech View Post
    I've been using Myers "fast shackles" which use a double overhand knot on a section of back splice.
    Ok so I was messing with a scrap of amsteel and created exactly what you’ve described, then read your comment a couple days later. Armed with the assurance that others have created these fast shackles as well, I’ve been using them in my suspension. Turns out I do, in fact, enjoy soft shackles if a double overhand knot is sufficient. I also happened to come across an article by a caver who has break-tested double overhand knots, and the knot itself is at least as strong as the cord used to tie it. So hey, works for me!

    Cmoulder, thanks for the clarification. And the pic! Very helpful. I did not, in fact, understand you correctly.
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  9. #29
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    I have used this system myself and you are correct-it is not common.
    I cant see why its not used more-very simple and light system.


    There are 2 solutions for the "prissic" problem.
    1 use spectra at about 4mm diameter.it is a dyneema like core with a polyprop sheath.
    The polyprop will grab on the prussic,but the cost is weight.

    2 dyneema still binds really well on devices so the simple drawing attatched is ideal-one on each end,easy to adjust but locks really tight with no slippage.the loop is only there so the device is "captured" on the line and never lost.
    The hook ends need to face each other to attatch the hammock loops to.
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    Last edited by jadekayak; 09-26-2021 at 09:24.

  10. #30
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    , with most 3mm dyneema that means nearly two metric tones, )

    Sorry but there is no such thing as a "metric tones"
    The correct word would be "tonnes" and calling it a "metric tonne" is an oxymoron.

    A "tonne" is automatically METRIC.

    on the other had thete is an imperial ton, and the US variants-short ton,long ton and standard ton-all of which are slightly different weights.

    A tonne is exactly the same weight no matter what-1000kg.


    Have said that its still a fair amount of breaking strain for hammocking.

    I always use 3mm dyneema sk75/78 rated to 1000kg.

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