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  1. #11
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    but there's a problem: if you move the hammock close to one tree and farther from the other, without moving the suspension high on the far tree and low on the close one, then you'll end up with uneven rigging angles (namely, very low angle on the far tree, so overloaded suspension), not to mention tilted hammock ridge.
    I have been dealing w/ exactly that w/ my current setup.
    I'm running short tree huggers to a dogbone and directly to my CL.
    The other end of the hammock goes from the CL to a UCR and then the hugger.
    The dogbone end is closest to the tree and usually my foot end, which is about a chakra higher than my head end.
    The hugger at the head end gets placed based on how far of a span I have to bridge. I get as close to 30° as I can but trees can be scarce around here.
    I think this be came my "standard" from doing so many one tree hangs. Where we are it just bumps the hang options into the "acceptable amount" range.
    The above description is when we do have two trees that will work. When I have only one tree my head end is the pole and my feet go to the tree. "Usually" the tree will be taller than the pole I use (6') and my foot end can be higher.
    Last edited by LowTech; 09-04-2021 at 00:07.

  2. #12
    New Member Daibhead's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the great responses! This forum is awesome. I have a whole bunch of new strategies in my mind to explore later. I wish I could reply to every response but I am on mobile and this is honestly a bit tedious. So I will respond to one for now:

    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    what problem are we trying to solve through it
    Hopefully less material used, shorter setup time, “aesthetic.”

    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    prusiks on dyneema don't really work properly for tarp loads, let alone hammock suspension needs
    Even when the prusiks are a smaller diameter cord and/or have an extra turn? And have about 160lbs divided between them? I have only just started experimenting with dyneema cordage in the last month or so, so I am still relatively unfamiliar with it.


    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    in the meantime, i'm not sure what it solves, or what benefit it brings (even if it's just for aesthethic /intelectual pleasure, i'm curious, the question is not rethorical)
    Honestly that is 90% of it. Aesthetic is a big part of my “why.” I like things to work well and look good doing it, even if that means it is a little more complicated. And I am all about experimenting. Even if I know something won’t work, I have to try it myself sometimes in order to understand the mechanics of why it doesn't work. I am a very hands-on learner. I made my own whoopie slings just so I could study a whoopie sling lol.

    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    i might be missing something, but this is a common setup: whoopie sling suspension with a fixed length structural ridgeline. the order in which you connect carabinners to dogbones "may vary" (well, it's generally best to not tri-load carabiners, so strictly speaking the order shouldn't vary, but let's not go there).
    I think where my proposed setup differs slightly from others (and maybe I am the one missing something) is that the whoopies are permanently affixed to the dogbone ridgeline and the carabiners merely clip onto the system in order to attach the hammock. They would hold no weight and take no force in any direction until I occupy the hammock. (Btw as a rock climber, I understand the perils of tri-loading carabiners, not to worry!)
    “I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.”
    – George Bernard Shaw.

  3. #13
    New Member Daibhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowTech View Post
    My thought has been to have the hammock CLs attached to a couple UCRs on the main line.
    “CL” = “continuous loop,” yeah? Sorry, what is “UCR”?

    Also that SLS you shared is not quite what I had in mind but looks very interesting! I’ll have to play with that setup a bit.
    Last edited by Daibhead; 09-04-2021 at 01:40.
    “I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.”
    – George Bernard Shaw.

  4. #14
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daibhead View Post
    “CL” = “continuous loop,” yeah? Sorry, what is “UCR”?
    Yes.
    UCR = Universal Constrictor Rope. It's like a Whoopi sling w/o it being all one line that loops back to itself.
    A UCR will have a main line w/ a "shuttle" that the main line is burried through. The shuttle has about a 6" tail the the hammock (in this situation) would attach to.
    Being like a whoopi they can slide along the main line and then once "milked" they hold in place.
    It would serve the purpose of the pussic.

  5. #15
    New Member Daibhead's Avatar
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    Cool, thanks! Yeah, that would solve the dyneema prusik problem for sure! Have you tried that particular method yourself? I’ll have to give it a go, as soon as I can get my hands on some more amsteel.
    “I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.”
    – George Bernard Shaw.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daibhead View Post
    Thanks for all the great responses! This forum is awesome. I have a whole bunch of new strategies in my mind to explore later. I wish I could reply to every response but I am on mobile and this is honestly a bit tedious. So I will respond to one for now:


    Even when the prusiks are a smaller diameter cord and/or have an extra turn? And have about 160lbs divided between them? I have only just started experimenting with dyneema cordage in the last month or so, so I am still relatively unfamiliar with it.
    yes, even then . dyneema really dislikes knots (for various reasons), and it particularly laughs at friction knots, as it is very slippery (in fact it is self-lubricating, one of the rare solid materials that do that). people use 5 wraps or more for tarp ridgeline, where the loads are in the order of a few kg/lbs, and they find that it barely holds for those loads, and at the same time tends to jam. although there are much better knots than the prusik, using a prusik or something like it on dyneema is a bit like designing a braking system to constantly smear grease on the brake discs. ucr (long buryes in general) do work though

    (...)
    Hopefully less material used, shorter setup time, “aesthetic.”
    (...)
    Honestly that is 90% of it. Aesthetic is a big part of my “why.” I like things to work well and look good doing it, even if that means it is a little more complicated. And I am all about experimenting. Even if I know something won’t work, I have to try it myself sometimes in order to understand the mechanics of why it doesn't work. I am a very hands-on learner. I made my own whoopie slings just so I could study a whoopie sling lol.
    fair enough, all good reasons, especially the experimenting and learning part (i take the same approach, i need to make and break stuff to be sure i figured out how things work)

    regarding less material: the whoopie sling is the main culprit there, replacing that with UCR's will be the biggest immediate gain and will maintain full adjustment ability.

    I think where my proposed setup differs slightly from others (and maybe I am the one missing something) is that the whoopies are permanently affixed to the dogbone ridgeline and the carabiners merely clip onto the system in order to attach the hammock. They would hold no weight and take no force in any direction until I occupy the hammock. (Btw as a rock climber, I understand the perils of tri-loading carabiners, not to worry!)
    okay, i see. it does come down to the order in which you clip (and if you use carabinners, this is one way to avoid tri-loading, so i think it's the reasonable way in fact). having the suspensions (whoopies or what have you) permanently attached to the ridgeline might not always be an advantage, but you'll need to try it and see how you like it for your purpose.

    i'd still suggest to put your ideas in practice first with "good honest rope" (as static as you can find around), and see if you like how it works, and decide based on that if you want to make it work with dyneema (if it is worth it enough for you that you will spend the time to try and engineer some solutions to get around dyneema's limitations). this way you can quickly test some proof of concepts.

    also do look into softshackles, you might like them

  7. #17
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    UCR—utility constrictor rope

  8. #18
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    Hello,

    Here are my thoughts on a continuous ridgeline.

    1. I agree that trying to use a prusik on amsteel is not very effective. I have had good results with a prusik using bank line, however I would not use that to support me in a hammock.
    a. The solution here is to use a constrictor, i.e. UCR
    2. If you use a UCR type constrictor you would need to use 2 of them. One on each side.
    a. One issue here would be the minimum size of a UCR contstrictor that could hold weight, about 18 inches. so the minimum hang distance would be the size of the hammock, plus 3 feet.
    b. In order for this to be adjustable, you would need to have either an extended "rope" section of the UCR, or very long tree straps. Either way you would need "extra" material.
    c. I think in overall savings you would be saving about half of an whoopie sling.
    d. I think that this system would overall, increase the difficulty and time of set-up, as a UCR contstrictor needs "pressure" on both sides in order to stay tight. so you would have your hammock on one side, then a small prusik on the other.

    I hope this helps.
    Let me know if I made any mis-calculations.

  9. #19
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    One note, you can do this with a UCR tail on just one side and a fixed eye on the other end.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  10. #20
    LowTech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    UCR—utility constrictor rope
    My bad. Had the wrong "U" definition.

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