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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walker View Post
    I see! That explanation helps. I think I have a good idea of how I could implement this. Definitely look forward to whatever pictures you can provide. With the initial paracord tension knot pushed all the way up to the tree are you able to eliminate the issue of hammock sway moving your ridgeline and therefore pulling on your guylines? That's the only potential downside I can see to this setup. But I imagine with that knot pushed up tight to the tree it might not be an issue. I use the EVO loop/shackles from Myers Tech on my straps at the tree so I think I could potentially get the paracord tension knot up high enough to the point it's touching the tree and not moving when the hammock sways.
    exactly, the closer to the tree, the less movement will be transmitted to the tarp. even if you're a few inches or so from the tree, it already won't matter (movement transmitted will be so little it will be irrelevant)

    using any kind of softshackles on the straps helps a lot, it's definitely the way to go.

    just make sure if you slide it really close to the tree, that the ridgeline which attaches to it goes through the softshackle loop, not around it (so when you pull the ridgeline tight, it just settles the treestrap nicely, instead of trying to twist it off the tree)

  2. #12
    New Member
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    Jun 2021
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    exactly, the closer to the tree, the less movement will be transmitted to the tarp. even if you're a few inches or so from the tree, it already won't matter (movement transmitted will be so little it will be irrelevant)

    using any kind of softshackles on the straps helps a lot, it's definitely the way to go.

    just make sure if you slide it really close to the tree, that the ridgeline which attaches to it goes through the softshackle loop, not around it (so when you pull the ridgeline tight, it just settles the treestrap nicely, instead of trying to twist it off the tree)
    That's good to hear! What cord do you like for your ridgeline, ridgeline tension knots, and mending loop? Do you use the same adjustable setup on both trees or just one?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walker View Post
    That's good to hear! What cord do you like for your ridgeline, ridgeline tension knots, and mending loop? Do you use the same adjustable setup on both trees or just one?
    i used several kinds of chord, typically the same cord works for the ridge line/guylines and the knots, when using good friction knots, like the blake and the VT. i've been using 2mm paracord (the one designated 100, or type 1 i think), because it's "enough" and it's quite light. i'm now testing to switch to good quality ppm rope of larger diameter (polypropylene multifilament), it's very cheap, it's lighter than dyneema, and doesn't absorb water, so it looks promising. being so light i could get away with using 3 or even 4mm ppm, so it is much nicer on the hands and with knots and such (but we will see how that goes, still in early testing stage). some people use dyneema, i think it's a bit overkill, and the lack of stretch is counterproductive. the nice thing with using knots is that you can use almost anything you like, you're not locked into some narrow range of line diameter that the hardware was designed for. with dyneema on dyneema, because it's so slippery, using smaller diameter for the knots than for the ridgeline seems to be a good idea (but i would avoid dyneema on dyneema, and at least make the knots/soft shackles out of normal cord, if the ridgeline must be dyneema)

    i have the same tensioning system on both trees, and same softshackles with friction hitches on the tarp tieouts too (even though i use a continuous ridgeline), this means i have several options to center the tarp, and because i can tension from both trees, it means i don't have to slide the tarp half a mile to center it, and at the same time have a healthy amount of ridgeline in case i need it. i find having quick adjust on all tieouts makes setup more versatile and less fidly, and because i make my own, why not? (it just takes a few minutes more for a few extra ones, when i pre-rig the tarp, and then it's good for the lifetime of the rope)

  4. #14
    New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    i used several kinds of chord, typically the same cord works for the ridge line/guylines and the knots, when using good friction knots, like the blake and the VT. i've been using 2mm paracord (the one designated 100, or type 1 i think), because it's "enough" and it's quite light. i'm now testing to switch to good quality ppm rope of larger diameter (polypropylene multifilament), it's very cheap, it's lighter than dyneema, and doesn't absorb water, so it looks promising. being so light i could get away with using 3 or even 4mm ppm, so it is much nicer on the hands and with knots and such (but we will see how that goes, still in early testing stage). some people use dyneema, i think it's a bit overkill, and the lack of stretch is counterproductive. the nice thing with using knots is that you can use almost anything you like, you're not locked into some narrow range of line diameter that the hardware was designed for. with dyneema on dyneema, because it's so slippery, using smaller diameter for the knots than for the ridgeline seems to be a good idea (but i would avoid dyneema on dyneema, and at least make the knots/soft shackles out of normal cord, if the ridgeline must be dyneema)

    i have the same tensioning system on both trees, and same softshackles with friction hitches on the tarp tieouts too (even though i use a continuous ridgeline), this means i have several options to center the tarp, and because i can tension from both trees, it means i don't have to slide the tarp half a mile to center it, and at the same time have a healthy amount of ridgeline in case i need it. i find having quick adjust on all tieouts makes setup more versatile and less fidly, and because i make my own, why not? (it just takes a few minutes more for a few extra ones, when i pre-rig the tarp, and then it's good for the lifetime of the rope)
    Thanks so much for all the information. I'll keep that ppm rope in mind as I experiment with all this stuff.

  5. #15
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    I do similar to what nanok is suggesting: connect tarp ridgeline directly to hammock straps.

    You can do this by either
    1) tying a line into your existing carabiner, fixed-eye, or crossover point on the strap, or
    2) put an extra prussik or klemheist loop on the hammock strap and just attach the tarp with a clip (my method).

  6. #16
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    Thanks! What are you using for straps and the prusik or klemheist? Do you have any issues with those knots jamming or slipping? So far I tried paracord on my dyneema/poly straps and that held nicely.

    I worry about dyneema on dyneema causing slippage and fraying. I read on one forum post here a guy had his becket hitch slip and cut right through his hammock continuous loops. Or vice versa or both. I can't remember.

  7. #17
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    I just use pre-tied loops of paracord or cheap Walmart nylon line. For tree straps I’m using regular 1” hardware store poly webbing. None of it needs to be fancy.

  8. #18
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    no need to bother with dyneema on dyneema here, the weight savings are marginal, and the added strength is meaningless for a tarp ridgeline. paracord, or really anything you have handy in reasonable size (i'd say 3-4mm to make it acceptable to work with) will do. aka, what leiavoia said. (except, i'm very paranoid about tree straps, and i like 20+ kN rated webbing, and "tollerate" down to 15 or so kN for "ultralight", but that's me)

  9. #19
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    I like dyneema over paracord for tarp ridgeline mostly because it doesn’t stretch - more important to me than just weight alone. Paracord was designed to stretch, and given windy conditions your tarp will have far more sag overnight than with Dyneema. Maybe less concern for the soft shackles and/or prusik knots, but still introduces unwanted stretch/flex into the system.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Twistytee View Post
    I like dyneema over paracord for tarp ridgeline mostly because it doesn’t stretch - more important to me than just weight alone. Paracord was designed to stretch, and given windy conditions your tarp will have far more sag overnight than with Dyneema. Maybe less concern for the soft shackles and/or prusik knots, but still introduces unwanted stretch/flex into the system.
    I agree with this assessment and also prefer minimal stretch cordage... Dyneema and other cords with very little and even less (Spectra, Kevlar) stretch.

    However, one thing that is true is that although nylon *does* stretch quite a bit by comparison, it eventually reaches a point where it doesn't stretch a whole lot more. I kept this in mind in the old days (pre-hammock!) when pitching my silnylon Duomid (pyramid tarp) and made sure to leave in a bit of room in the corner cordage to give in one more generous snug-tug after it had a couple of hours to 'settle'.

    Even so, for hammocking—and the rare occasion I must revert to ground—I still vastly prefer a DCF tarp and very low stretch cordage which appeal to my strong preference for absolute simplicity... one and done.
    Five Basic Principles of Going Lighter (not me... the great Cam Honan of OZ) Instagram (me!)

    “To equip a pedestrian with shelter, bedding, utensils, food, and other necessities, in a pack so light and small that he can carry it without overstrain, is really a fine art.” ~ Horace Kephart, 1906

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