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  1. #11
    Senior Member Redoleary's Avatar
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    I've made finger patches with the same weight fabric, which was a lot of work but I mostly wanted the aesthetic the next tarp I used one layer of "way overkill" 500d cordura the cordura being much easier to work with than a couple of layers of sil. In both cases I didn't really concern myself with the direction of the bias etc. I've had no problems.
    EOdDxzCCD7BOo4LNuv3nj3y8LrT-vZaqaQemOjLtJ8nNy7FhRUBbGoEPDpY_-bYDe41Iz2nl5Mw7sFV2oFPY34Sj-xdKga9T.jpg l4ocUbmcfI4eCQL12xmyBW6DAcXFR8sXDxHkAuGtAspYBXO-anFx3JguM8-QYYyjXDP-Cwg5L6P6rPVhGW_U77DO6j4vaNMC.jpg
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    RED

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  2. #12
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    I made some tarp sewing the reinforcement patches, but I never liked the idea of that. One day I started to glue it with silicone. The same fabric. No stitch. The oldest one has one year with no issues.












  3. #13
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    thank you for the "silicone glue long term report" complete with pics, infrastellar, that's quite valuable, as i've been meaning to experiment with that. would you care to share what mix you used (if you dilluted it at all, or straight from the tube), and what procedure, comments etc. imho glue that is "suitable" will be a better solution for this than sewing, for all the obvious reasons.

  4. #14
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    Here's the RSBTR post about reinforcement patch stretch and gluing patches - https://ripstopbytheroll.com/blogs/t...s-and-shelters
    Better weight than wisdom, a traveller cannot carry - Viking proverb

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    thank you for the "silicone glue long term report" complete with pics, infrastellar, that's quite valuable, as i've been meaning to experiment with that. would you care to share what mix you used (if you dilluted it at all, or straight from the tube), and what procedure, comments etc. imho glue that is "suitable" will be a better solution for this than sewing, for all the obvious reasons.
    I work only with silnet that is sold in tubes. I learned how to put it with less silicone possible, not to make a mess, and to look nice. Always have a tissue close, to clean my fingers and also accident if that happens. If you drop some silicone somewhere you dont want to, it is very easy to remove some 30 - 60 minutes later with tissue paper. After every patch I clean my hands with tissue paper. One that leaves no trace. I work on old newspapers, after every patch and apply, I exchange the newspaper for new one. Do it slowly. Apply the silicon just with your finger, I dont use any tools. From the center towards the outside, the edges at the end. Be careful about the silicon on the newspaper, you dont want the patch to catch some on the other side. I spread the fabric on the floor, and fold it the way that I save space in my living room. But the places for patches are visible and free to work with, applying pressure, removing the bubbles from the center towards the edges. If I make mess, first I clean lightly, and then after 30-60 minutes I can remove the unwanted silicone.

    I tried to cut the patches at the same direction of the stretch as the tarp panel, and also, I tried to cut the patches and gluing them at 90 degree of the stretch towards the tarp panel. This is easier to observe with visible ripstop fabrics. Till now, I see no difference in behavior between these two attitudes.

    However I like this method much more than sewing the patches. As the stitch line will always be the weakest point, and might behave like toilet paper.

  6. #16
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    wow, that's the whole manual right there. dekuji!

    your results look really neat and clean, indeed. and that's what i mean by "gluing it properly will be better than sewing": it distributes the load better, and it avoids hotspots, thread damage, etc.i would in fact be tempted to figure out how to integrate the tieouts in such a way that they are also glued (or at least bot glued and stitched, but better primarily glued)

  7. #17
    Wish there were some like buttons for these replies, awesome info and thank you everyone for good input!

  8. #18
    By the way, I found this video quite interesting and it's always cool to watch professionals at work.




    I saw that they use spray adhesive (3M Super 77) to position the patches and keep them from slipping during sewing. Could maybe be a good alternative to basting tape in some situations.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nanok View Post
    wow, that's the whole manual right there. dekuji!

    your results look really neat and clean, indeed. and that's what i mean by "gluing it properly will be better than sewing": it distributes the load better, and it avoids hotspots, thread damage, etc.i would in fact be tempted to figure out how to integrate the tieouts in such a way that they are also glued (or at least bot glued and stitched, but better primarily glued)
    for example grosgrain ribbon doesnt last glued to the tarp very long. I glue the grosgrain reinforcements over the patch on the inner side of the tarp, just to keep it in place while sewing the panel pulls on the outside of the tarp on the other day. It is just to keep the grosgrain in place while sewing it with the pullout, it is very slippery with the tarp panel in between. The grosgrain reinforcement is not stick to the tarp panel after several uses /deployment, packing/. Stitching the grosgrain tabs through the reinforced tarp corners or panel pulls doesnt hurt at all. There is already no such force on the stitching.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by infrastellar View Post
    for example grosgrain ribbon doesnt last glued to the tarp very long. I glue the grosgrain reinforcements over the patch on the inner side of the tarp, just to keep it in place while sewing the panel pulls on the outside of the tarp on the other day. It is just to keep the grosgrain in place while sewing it with the pullout, it is very slippery with the tarp panel in between. The grosgrain reinforcement is not stick to the tarp panel after several uses /deployment, packing/. Stitching the grosgrain tabs through the reinforced tarp corners or panel pulls doesnt hurt at all. There is already no such force on the stitching.
    yeah, that's clear, thanks for confirming; i think the contact surface is too small on one hand, and perhaps the grosgrain might also be the "wrong" material to bond to the silicone? but i'm thinking rather to redesign the tieouts in such a way that the contact patch with the reinforcement patch is much bigger (integral maybe), this might indeed mean to not use grosgrain or webbing at all. just thinking out loud, thanks for sharing your experience with it, it helps a lot with my "gedanken experiments"

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