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  1. #1

    Cord For Structural Ridgeline and Continuous Loops EU

    I'd like to order some cord to make a fixed length structural ridgeline and loops for my hammock.
    I'm confused trying to convert the imperial measures of recommended cords on US sites to metric measurements and about knots weakening the cord.

    I'll order enough to make one set with knots and to try splicing another.
    I'll use the triple-fishermans and overhand knots for loops and the ridgeline as per DIY Gear Supply but I've heard knots can weaken some fabrics? https://diygearsupply.com/diy-guides/hammock-guide/

    Extremtextil has low price shipping to my country but I'm open to other EU suppliers.
    Please can I get some recommendations on what to buy. I've heard that the ridgeline doesn't need to be a strong as the loops?

  2. #2
    Senior Member sidneyhornblower's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hfjje View Post
    I'd like to order some cord to make a fixed length structural ridgeline and loops for my hammock.
    ----------snip------------
    Please can I get some recommendations on what to buy. I've heard that the ridgeline doesn't need to be a strong as the loops?
    While I'm not an expert, I'll jump in with some observations. Maybe someone who knows more can then correct me or add to this.

    In my experience the ridegline does not need to be as strong as the suspension. I've used Zingit for my ridegelines since 2014, so I've got one ridgeline that's lasted at least that long. Zingit comes, so far as I know, in 1.75mm and 2.2mm sizes. I believe I'm using the 1.75mm version. I'll include a link to Ripstop by the Roll, where I buy my stuff. I don't know what's available where you live, but the info on the site might help you compare.

    By loops, I'll assume you mean fixed loops at the ends of a gathered end hammock? If so, I use something stronger than Zingit, like Amsteel.

    How much and whether knots derate rope strength is a deep, black art dependent upon which knot, which rope and probably other factors. Most of us are guessing when we offer figures on how much breaking strength is affected by knots, but assume anywhere from 25 to 50 percent and you'll at least be in the ballpark.

    Zingit link: https://ripstopbytheroll.com/product...nt=29006463501

    Amsteel link: https://ripstopbytheroll.com/product...ant=5208778369
    "...the height of hammock snobbery!"

  3. #3
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    I use amsteel for hammock ridgeline and continuous loops. Some use 7/64 amsteel, I use slightly larger 1/8 amsteel, I realize 1/8 is not needed.

    Sometimes my hammock ridgeline is a bit tight. I figure amsteel breaking strength will help cover my excesses.
    Also sometimes I put much of my weight on amsteel hammock ridgeline when I use it to help me get in and out of my hammock, as well as to aid my balance while slipping into a different pair of shoes or changing pants.

    Learning to splice is loads of fun. Frustrating at first, but after some practice, and watching several splicing videos you will get better.

    When splicing, always taper the end strands, to make splicing easier.

    Two other knots you might want to learn are, diamond knot and alpine butterfly loop.

    If you have a computer or a smart phone, to convert inches to metric or metric centimeters to inches.
    Type into search engines, Google or Safari:
    Example:
    Convert 110 inches to centimeters
    or centimeters to inches.

    When ordering amsteel and zingit, I always order twice as much as I need, to help cover my mistakes. That’s even more important if shipping rates and import fees are high.

    Watch a variety of YouTube videos to learn splicing from more than one person.

    Good luck

  4. #4
    Senior Member packman9000's Avatar
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    I use 1.75mm Zingit for non-load bearing ridgelines (eg, anything but the hammock). Never had anything even remotely considered a failure or a potential failure.

    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    I use amsteel for hammock ridgeline and continuous loops. Some use 7/64 amsteel, I use slightly larger 1/8 amsteel, I realize 1/8 is not needed.

    Sometimes my hammock ridgeline is a bit tight. I figure amsteel breaking strength will help cover my excesses.
    Also sometimes I put much of my weight on amsteel hammock ridgeline when I use it to help me get in and out of my hammock, as well as to aid my balance while slipping into a different pair of shoes or changing pants.

    Learning to splice is loads of fun. Frustrating at first, but after some practice, and watching several splicing videos you will get better.

    When splicing, always taper the end strands, to make splicing easier.
    Plus the taper also contributes to strength, so it's win-win.

  5. #5
    If I could find Amsteel and Zingit/Lashit, I'd order it.

    The conversion from inches to cms isn't a problem, it's the breaking strength. I see Amsteel listed at '1600 pound breaking strength', but ''pound breaking strength' isn't a measurement of force that can be converted to daN. There's 'pound-force' but I'm not sure that's the same thing.

    I'm not so worried about learning to splice, it's just that the overhand knot ridgeline looks so easy.

  6. #6
    Senior Member WV's Avatar
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    Many people use Zing-it and lighter lines for ridgelines, but they are not making structural ridgelines, which in some circumstances (e.g. - trees very far apart) bear the same loads as the hammock's suspension and should be fastened accordingly (splices, not knots). Because most people don't hang in a way that puts too much stress on an "indicator ridgeline", they do fine, like packman9000, but they should follow his example and know when their lines are loadbearing or not. In general usage on this forum the distinction is often blurred.

  7. #7
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    My understanding is that knots don’t hold in Amsteel etc because it’s so slippery, so splicing is a must.
    I’d have thought a quoted breaking weight would be of more use to a hammocker than a force in Newtons. 2600lbs is 1182kg which is more than enough for most people.
    I prefer 3mm Dyneema as its less fiddly to splice and has less of a “cheesewire” feel to it than the thin stuff.
    I think the ridgeline doesn’t need to be as strong as the end loops because you won’t end up on the floor if it snaps


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    I’d have thought a quoted breaking weight would be of more use to a hammocker than a force in Newtons.
    I want to pick a cord with an equivalent breaking strength

  9. #9
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    Best stuff I have found is Lawson cord, although only used it for tarp ridgelines and guys as I have never made a hammock structural.ridgeline. He does ship to the UK, although it will cost about £15 I think. His stuff is really good and holds knots very well without tangling. I don't think you can splice it, but if I understood well your main objective for splicing is to prevent slippage. That would not be required

  10. #10
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemlock View Post
    My understanding is that knots don’t hold in Amsteel etc because it’s so slippery, so splicing is a must.
    I’d have thought a quoted breaking weight would be of more use to a hammocker than a force in Newtons. 2600lbs is 1182kg which is more than enough for most people.
    I prefer 3mm Dyneema as its less fiddly to splice and has less of a “cheesewire” feel to it than the thin stuff.
    I think the ridgeline doesn’t need to be as strong as the end loops because you won’t end up on the floor if it snaps


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    For a CL, a double fisherman's bend works fine with Amsteel, and a simple overhand or bowline will work for a loop on the end, such as would be needed for a dogbone or structural ridge line. For hammock suspension, look up J-bend which is one of the rare knots that works well Amsteel-on-Amsteel.
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