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  1. #1
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    Comfort Bridge Mk II

    I have been having a lot of fun with DIY gear and have completed a new gear set (tarp/UQs,TQs,GE hammock) and it all worked great. Soooo .... looking for new stuff to do, I made a new bridge, to the following specs:

    36" x .625" spreader bars (Easton)
    2 x 1/2" kevlar ribbon edge suspension
    Dutch titanium bridge hardware set
    Nylon Ripstop 1.9 material
    Length 80" x 48" (Depth 15"), cat cut 6"
    Dogbones 30"
    Sewn in encaps (double to make storage pockets)

    This is directly from Kitsapcowboys post : https://hammockforums.net/forum/show...-Beta-Version)

    I won't bother with pictures or construction (just showing where the project started), it would just be a repeat of what has been posted (if you want to see it, the link is there) .... after setting up and trying out some pads/underquilts and various hang scenarios of this bridge, it gave me a bit of shoulder squeeze and the middle section seemed a bit narrow, for figure 4 sleeping, plus I use a CPAP at night and i needed a place to set that up.

    Starting with that basic shape and pivoting the cat curve out, at the head end, yielded ~ 4" more at the narrow/middle part and gave a lot more shoulder room as well. To lessen the shoulders squeeze, a bit more, I flattened the drop of the curve, for the head end, by ~3" and that has yielded, what I consider a good comfy geometry.

    Extending the hammock past the head bar to create a head end storage area presented the challenge of dealing with an internal pole, but I think it worked out well for the intended purpose. The extension is not designed for the sleeper to lay beyond the head bar into the storage area, it is meant strictly as a gear loft area.

    Saddle bags were added to both sides and external gear hooks, at regular intervals, along the sides provide options for various uses. Internal gear hooks were also added to the head end storage area for hanging lofts and such.


    Features include:
    - widen head end to both widen and flatten the support arc (shoulder squeeze), as well as adding a few inches to the center area (found a bit narrow)
    - 1/2" tubular PolyPro side suspension for strength and economics
    - side storage pockets
    - head storage area
    - external gear hooks along the zipper line
    - internal gear hooks storage area
    - full zippered bug ney
    - double layer for bug protection and "feel"

    This design can be built with or without the head end storage area, I have materials to build 2 more units, and haven't decided whether these will be without the head storage area. One will be a "regular" and one will be a "Larger" ..... in those terms the regular will use 1/2" tubular polypro with 7/64" amsteel dog bones, the larger will substitute 1" kevlar strap folded in half with 1/8" amsteel dog bones. So within reason you can sub materials depending on the users stats ... in this case the larger is built for ~350 pounds ... hopefully the increase adds enough strength.

    I made a couple of prototypes and tested them out in 2019 and was happy enough with them, that I went on to make a "final" version for me. I have been a bit delinquent in posting as I had also started a new canoe and that took a lot of my attention. Now it seems ... we all have a bit more time on our hands and I am finally getting around to posting/sharing my build(s).

    As a preface, i have done a lot of reading and learned a lot from the pioneers/masters around this site, i don't believe this is a copy of anyone elses work, but it certainly uses a lot of the shared wisdom. This not an "Light" version, it is intended for canoe camping, however, with a bit of material substitution it could be made as a light version quite easily IMO.

    Comfort Bridge Specifications:

    Front width: 55", Front pole: 43" x .725" (Easton)
    Foot Width: 47", Foot pole: 36" x .625" (Easton)
    Overall Length : Hammock 80", Head Storage 28"
    Edge/Suspension 1/2" tubular PolyPro
    Double Layer
    Dog Bones: Head 43", Foot 36"

    For my prototypes I used HyperD 1.1 inner and Ripstop 1.9, the 1.1 inside for hand feel and the 1.9 outside for strength, both selected for function and cost effectiveness. The final version swapped out the 1.9 ripstop for 2.2 Hex70 .... this was some what based on a remark by "Just Bill" to the effect that a bridge hammock may benefit from hex weave material, due to the multi directional forces on it (that was over year ago, don't quote me and if I got that wrong, I am sure Bill will correct me), which made sense to me, and I had to order more fabric anyhow.

    Saddle bags were added to both sides and external gear hooks, at regular intervals, along the sides provide options for various uses. Internal gear hooks were also added to the head end storage area for hanging lofts and such.

    This is a pic setup at camp, head bar is internal and foot bar is external. There are 2 large storage pockets (10" x 30") on each side, dual zipper tabs on each side .... plus the zipper can be run back to the foot end and the bug net rolled up and out of the way.



    Above the head bar, there is a 28" space for additional storage, I use it to get the quilts and such out of the way when setting up.




    There are also evenly spaced external gear hooks down the length of the hammock, for a variety of purposes, as shown here on one of the prototypes. Ok, they are not evenly spaced on this prototype ... but I was more careful on the final version.



    The prototype, prior to bug net installation (the zipper is installed though) ... I opted for a hardware less pole install



    Closeup of the pole install





    If there is interest, I will post the plans and a build overview of the project.



    Brian

  2. #2
    ObdewlaX's Avatar
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    Wow, that's quite a project & nice end results.

    Looks like a great option for hanging when canoe camping since you don't have to be as concerned with weight as you do when backpacking.

  3. #3
    Senior Member BigGreenMoose's Avatar
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    Great looking setup. Really sharp in the red!

    I'll have to look into the pattern. I'm on the larger side of most bridge options, so I might do some research into making a DIY version.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigGreenMoose View Post
    Great looking setup. Really sharp in the red!

    I'll have to look into the pattern. I'm on the larger side of most bridge options, so I might do some research into making a DIY version.

    Well, I think first trip in it was the EGL French River trip, I think you were there, I am not completely at home with all the EGL folks forum names yet yet. I have worked out the solution for a larger person, so maybe I can give you a headstart on the project ... Ajax is only 20 minutes away.



    Brian

  5. #5
    Senior Member BigGreenMoose's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruiser51 View Post
    Well, I think first trip in it was the EGL French River trip, I think you were there, I am not completely at home with all the EGL folks forum names yet yet. I have worked out the solution for a larger person, so maybe I can give you a headstart on the project ... Ajax is only 20 minutes away.



    Brian
    I missed that trip... Sadly!
    Like ships in the dark, I don think we've met yet, Brian.
    Thanks for the offer to show and tell. I'm not allowed to start a new project until I complete a few that I have on the go already. My wife is patiently waiting for some cabinet doors and a walnut winerack to complete our basement reno.

    Once I complete those, a pair of mukluks that need uppers attached, and a tarp that's been waiting for thread injection, I'll take you up on it.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    As I stated in the opening, I have made several prototypes and refined the process a bit as I learned, the pics may not be of the final build, but are presented simply to illustrate the steps being presented.

    Continuing on with the plans and an overview of the build, this a pic of my current working plan (I don't do CAD atm)



    Since I knew I would be making a few versions, I went ahead and made templates for the body and endcaps

    The main body is 108" long, so the template is in 2 pieces, there is a small extension to complete the head section not shown here



    The side curve was made using XTrekkers Cat Curve Calculator found here : https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...rve-Calculator

    Hammock Body

    Cloth for the main body is laid out, marked using the template and adding a 1" sewing allowance to all dimensions.

    Smooth the cloth, pin around the edges and cut out the shape. I use a hot knife which seals the edges and fuses the 2 pieces together, I still use the pins to hold that initial alignment.

    Stitch around the perimeter, remove the pins, then hem the foot and head ends with a double rolled hem.






    For the foot endcap I just used Grizzly Adams EndCap Calculator, found here : https://www.hammockforums.net/galler...php?i=2719&c=4

    I did flare it out a little so that width measurement is closer to 20", it is better to have the endcap a little wider, you lose for sewing allowance and then again when you actual sew the endcap in, template looks like this



    Cloth cut out



    and hemmed, just about 37" wide, so with "sew in" it will be close to 36" (pole length).



    The head endcap isn't really a parabola, so developed this shape partly by trial and error, the important points are the width at the top and the length/perimeter of the curved part, with the width being most important, you can always add a few small darts if the curve length is a bit long. On that point, to sew in the endcaps, I like to start pinning at the top of each side and work my way to the middle, creating small darts as needed as I near the center.

    This is the template (with dimensions) and the head endcap ready for hemming.




    I hadn't planned on going into too much detail, so if there are any questions or suggestions, as we go through this,, just post them. Next post will cover off getting the suspension sewn in and possibly getting the endcaps installed ... it isn't written yet so I will have to see how long the post gets.


    Brian
    Last edited by Cruiser51; 06-28-2021 at 09:15.

  7. #7
    Senior Member packman9000's Avatar
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    That looks really sharp, I love the "making of" pictures too.

    EDIT: Actually I have a question too while I'm at it, and since you mentioned it...is the strip of Hex70 between the zipper and the body stitched on to the inner seam of the rolled hem over the webbing? I've been looking at your pics off and on and can't quite make it out. I love how you handled the zipper going on, btw.

    ....I have that same LED desk lamp. I like that I can adjust the temperature of the light for the time of day I use it.
    Last edited by packman9000; 06-25-2021 at 15:48.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by packman9000 View Post
    That looks really sharp, I love the "making of" pictures too.

    ....I have that same LED desk lamp. I like that I can adjust the temperature of the light for the time of day I use it.

    I splurged and bought it AFTER a tarp I was making hit the halogen predecessor .... only good thing about the hole is that it was at least sealed which made it easier to repair. I also think these can throw more light as well.

    Brian
    Last edited by Cruiser51; 06-25-2021 at 18:50.

  9. #9
    Senior Member P-Dub's Avatar
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    I would be interested in more details of your construction, in case you are on the fence about continuing!

  10. #10
    Senior Member Cruiser51's Avatar
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    The 2 main suspensions are based on either cordage or webbing, I opted for a webbing based suspension.

    The choice of which webbing you use can be based on strength, cost or weight or a combination of all three.

    My personal preferences for the suspension rails are limited stretch and about 1500 pounds breaking strength, about 18' is required and weights below are based on that.

    For this build I selected 1/2" Polyester Tubing (RSBTR) at 4.2 g/ft, yielding a weight of 2.75 oz, 1600 #s per rail and a cost of $6.75 for the 25' piece

    Other options I considered

    Venom 1" folded (RSBTR) at 2.2 g/ft, yielding a weight of 1.4 oz, 1800 #s per rail and a cost of $30 for the 25' piece
    Kevlar 1" 3.3 (Dutchware) at 3.3 g/ft, yielding a weight of 2.1 oz, 2000 #s per rail and a cost of $20 for two 10' pieces
    1/2" Kevlar Doubled (Dutchware) at .6 g/ft, yielding a weight of .8 oz, 1000 #s per rail and a cost of $36 for four 10' pieces

    Any of these options are viable depending on your needs, for the Kevlar option, if a small piece of cloth is sewn on the suspension loop prior to installation, any UV degradation can be avoided on exposed portion.

    On with the suspension, I use 1.5" x 6" patches of HyperD 300 at the major connection points (head/foot/middle), this is a pic of the templates, patches and the dogbones. The dogbones are coded red for head (43") and black for foot (36"). There is an order of operations here, so either follow the steps or make sure you plan ahead.



    Foot end dogbone being installed, there is a slight angle on one end to match the intersect angle, this just saves a bit of trim work when it is rolled. Stitch the head and foot patches on the outter side



    Middle, pin and leave for now



    After placing the patches, it is time to create a channel for the head dogbones, they support the head storage area, but otherwise are not intended for any real loading. Stitch the head side middle patch along the edge, and do about half of the other patch to the foot end



    Now make a 1.5" mark, at regular intervals, from the head to the middle. Fold and make a 1/4" hem



    Once the hem is done, fold the edge to the mark, pin and stitch in place. This forms the channel for the dogbones



    Cut an 8' piece of the polyester tubing and prestretch it, fold over a 6" flap at one end and stitch it. Place this at the middle patch and align the end to the patch end



    Then tightly roll the tubing twice ... when this gets rolled, it starts to overlap the dogbone channel, so this is figuring out where the main suspension intersects the dogbone channel. Make a mark where the end falls on that channel



    Unroll the edge , insert that little wooden tool (so you don't cut all the way through) and make a cut on the mark to open the channel at that point



    A better pic of that little tool ... it is used to open channels, and help manipulate the amsteel larks head etc.



    Align the folded suspension with the patch again and pin in place ... stitch it down the middle, attaching it to the hammock body, STOP about 6" short of the foot end patch, the pic stops a little too close to the patch, the second flap will be done now and it is easier if there is a bit of loose tubing to play with





    Fold the tubing back to leave 1/4" past the patch (keep this accurate side to side), pin and sew the flap (pic is earlier version using a bar tac), go back to where you stopped sewing in the tubing and complete the stitch line



    Next roll the tubing tightly (think hem) and run the stitches down the inside edge (~1/8" from edge), roll again and run the stitches down the inside edge again. The suspension end at the middle will look like this at this point



    I use these steps to assemble the suspension, although I suggest you wait to do the actual install, there is more sewing on the edges and the presence of the dogbones makes it more difficult.

    For the middle, use the little wooden tool to work the suspension loop open and exposed, then larks head the dogbone in place





    Run a unbent coat hangar with a loop through the dogbone channel from the end to the middle, push it through the channel we created and pull the dogbone through





    The foot end is simply larks headed directly.

    That covers the suspension install, next will be the "addons", saddle bags, gear hooks, and strain relief for the zipper install.


    Brian
    Last edited by Cruiser51; 06-28-2021 at 19:05.

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