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  1. #11
    gunner76's Avatar
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    Dec 2009
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    Use NamaClaws, they do not slip
    I am still 18 but with 52 years of experience !

  2. #12
    Senior Member Rolloff's Avatar
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    Use the Bonefire Suspension.

    Eliminates the need for prussiks or any other hard/software
    Signature suspended

  3. #13
    Senior Member
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    Jul 2020
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    Little Rock, AR
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    Thanks for the responses. That gave me some things to narrow down. I definitely think the prusiks could’ve been the culprit if it had had stopped after night #2, but I didn’t use them on night #3. That’s exactly why I didn’t use them. I did hang from one smaller tree on night #3, which was maybe 3”-4” in diameter (not circumference). I’m only 125lbs, but I might’ve had the angle a little tight, creating more pressure on the tree. That’s definitely a possibility.

    I’m the most interested in OneClick’s original reply, since I’d been wondering if that might be what I’m doing wrong. I HAVE been using my trekking poles for tarp mode with the handle down. Maybe that had something to do with it. My knots on the ridgeline were still secure, as I’d backed them up with half hitches - although it WAS new zing-it line. It seems like the tie-outs were the floppy ones that last night. In that case, it was an improper pitch. The first two nights, it’s likely the prusiks were to blame. Along with an improper pitch, since I pitched it the same way all 3 nights.

  4. #14
    Senior Member
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    For what it’s worth, I’ve been tying the guylines to my shepherd hooks with a clove hitch, and I’ve been using a MSH with my Y and V stakes. I’ve found the clove hitch harder to loosen with those stakes.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    I might give the Lawson cord a try, since so many people seem to really like it. I’d looked at it before, but on the website, the starting price looked like $46. I thought, “holy cow! I can buy a mini spool of zing-it for less than that!” Now I see that it’s actually $8 and change, since I tried selecting an actual option. Much more reasonable...especially since that’s about what I paid for the paracord.

  6. #16
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    Aug 2012
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    AmberG, if you decide to go with Nama Claws know that they don’t want your ridgeline to be thicker than 1.75mm. Also, sometimes it’s easier to put garth hitch a small 1.75mm loop to the D-rings (or split ring) at the tarp’s end and put that cord in the Claw. If you make your own ridgeline. Double check that you have the Claws facing the right way (opening toward the line ends) before you splice in any “Claws can’t escape” bulge. Just say’n.

    The only thing I’ve found that eliminates tarp flap is some shock-cord at the tarp guy out points. Sure, different cut tarps can minimize it. But I’d think it would be very difficult to guy out with the tension required to eliminate any slack. And even if you did, it would only be taut until the fabric stretched a bit. Which is a feature because you have “give” and “break”. If you eliminate any “give” all you have left is ...
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
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    Aaaah...yeah, I didn’t think of it that way, but we don’t want that. I’ll put some of the shock cord back on and just use a lighter one and less of it. I got some flyz in a couple of days ago, so I’ll play around with it and see what I end up liking best. The last system sounded good in theory...such is life.

  8. #18
    TallPaul's Avatar
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    Charlotte, NC
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    What am I doing wrong??

    My setup is pretty simple. I use a CRL with Nama Claws. On the guylines, I use Zing it and use a MSH to attach it to the stake.
    I don’t get a flappy DCF tarp. It may not be pulled as taut as a silnylon but I wouldn’t consider it flappy
    Nothing against trying out different cordage and adding back in shock cord but something still seems odd why removing the prussiks didn’t help.

  9. #19
    Senior Member
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    That’s pretty much when I figured I might be missing something. I do think cougarmeat made an excellent point. Hard to argue with physics (although I’ve tried a time or two). I’m going to try again with my trekking poles tip down and add back a few shock cord loops and see what happens.

  10. #20
    Senior Member OneClick's Avatar
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    If your pole tips fit well inside the Dring or whatever you have, I like doing that. So you have two hard objects taut with the line holding everything. No "weak links".

    If you do tips down and the cord wrap deal around the handle, you have a solid object (tarp), cord, object (pole), more cord. That's already creating a huge disadvantage that will never be fully taut. And that's before any sagging or "bad" angles.

    Just my take after switching back and forth.

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