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  1. #1
    Senior Member packman9000's Avatar
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    Turtle Ties for a Bridge Hammock?

    I finished making my own bridge hammock, and outside of a couple minor changes I'll do on my second build, I'm trying to work out how to rig suspension. Currently, I'm using the typical dogbones to whoopie slings (with multi buckles in between, but I'm exploring lighter methods with better adjustability so I picked up a couple turtle ties. The tricky thing is how to fix the turtles to the end of the dogbones.

    The other part of it I have figured, huggers & amsteel and the amsteel adjusts through the turtles. It's attaching the dogbones to the turtles that has me stumped...they'll handle one dogbone larks headed on real easy, but there's no way you'll get them both on there.

    I'm not opposed to one long dogbone lark's headed in the middle at the turtle (I've read up on that already), and sewing the one end into the loop of webbing on the hammock body, but that means the suspension can't be change without cutting it off...a possibility of which I'm not fond.

    Am I missing something? Amsteel on amsteel (eg, dogbones to soft shackle...and then the turtle off the shackle) isn't a good idea, is it? ...or did I misunderstand the few threads on that topic?

    I'm new to bridge hammocks so this is still fresh territory for me. Thank you for your help.

  2. #2
    I use the turtle ties on my Ridgerunner. I spliced a continuous loop through both ends of the dogbones and attached the turtle ties to that.

  3. #3
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    Initially there were questions about using the “horns” on the Turtle ties for the bridge hammock suspension lines because I think the original idea of the turtle tie was a alternative to a Loop Alien. I don’t recall a definitive answer about using the Turtle Tie as part of the hammock suspension. I first read your comment as, “I’m not supposed to …” rather than, “I’m not opposed to …” interesting how the meaning completely changes.

    I’d imagine that larks heading the two suspension lines to the larger hole of the turtle would eliminate any concern about the loops slipping off the horns (feet/flippers) of the turtle.

    So far, easiest for me has been to just put both loops on one light weight (but strong enough - like WB sells) biner and clip it into spider daisy chain. Derek’s new book has a photo suggesting not putting two lines on the carabiner but I think the point in the illustration is not to put a force near the gate jaw opening. With the RR, both loops snuggle down next to each other where a single loop would be - so the pull is still along the strong structure of the biner.
    Last edited by cougarmeat; 03-25-2021 at 21:15.
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  4. #4
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    Can't you just lark's head the two dogbones simultaneously to the Turtle Tie?

  5. #5
    Senior Member packman9000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grubbster View Post
    I use the turtle ties on my Ridgerunner. I spliced a continuous loop through both ends of the dogbones and attached the turtle ties to that.
    Thanks...I'll give this a try. Now we'll see how small I can get a continuous loop.

    Quote Originally Posted by TominMN View Post
    Can't you just lark's head the two dogbones simultaneously to the Turtle Tie?
    The center hole in the turtle isn't big enough for doubled larks heads. :/

    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    Initially there were questions about using the “horns” on the Turtle ties for the bridge hammock suspension lines because I think the original idea of the turtle tie was a alternative to a Loop Alien. I don’t recall a definitive answer about using the Turtle Tie as part of the hammock suspension. I first read your comment as, “I’m not supposed to …” rather than, “I’m not opposed to …” interesting how the meaning completely changes.

    I’d imagine that larks heading the two suspension lines to the larger hole of the turtle would eliminate any concern about the loops slipping off the horns (feet/flippers) of the turtle.
    The turtle has to go head-out to be adjustable with the suspension. The flippers I think would hold so long as there's any tension on them at all, but it negates the ability to adjust things. I have carabiners, but they don't make it adjustable, and if I'm going to use any hardware I'd like it doing double duty.

  6. #6
    Phantom Grappler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by packman9000 View Post
    Thanks...I'll give this a try. Now we'll see how small I can get a continuous loop.


    The center hole in the turtle isn't big enough for doubled larks heads. :/


    The turtle has to go head-out to be adjustable with the suspension. The flippers I think would hold so long as there's any tension on them at all, but it negates the ability to adjust things. I have carabiners, but they don't make it adjustable, and if I'm going to use any hardware I'd like it doing double duty.
    Packman, you might want to substitute an alpine butterfly loop for continuous loop.
    Make loop as small as needed.
    Alpine butterfly loop resists ringloading. Ringloading is the same force that continuous loops are good at resisting.
    Ringloading is like pulling the loop in opposite directions to stretch or pull apart the loop.

    Only problem is now your loop would have a bump on it in form of a knot.

  7. #7
    Senior Member packman9000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phantom Grappler View Post
    Packman, you might want to substitute an alpine butterfly loop for continuous loop.
    Make loop as small as needed.
    Alpine butterfly loop resists ringloading. Ringloading is the same force that continuous loops are good at resisting.
    Ringloading is like pulling the loop in opposite directions to stretch or pull apart the loop.

    Only problem is now your loop would have a bump on it in form of a knot.
    Thank you! I make continuous loops with a locked brummel, which leaves a little bump but I don't mind, but it gets around the bury-only method that can slip when not under load.

    I've toyed with making one long dogbone and sewing in the larks heads where it attaches to the hammock. In this case, instead of the larks head at the turtle, you're right the butterfly will hold better...I'll give it a try.

  8. #8
    Senior Member fugalster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TominMN View Post
    Can't you just lark's head the two dogbones simultaneously to the Turtle Tie?
    It can be done, but it takes some fiddling to get everything to lay flat. Once installed it works fine except that the center hole is a bit smaller so some more dexterity is required when tying it to your suspension. I would suggest using a continuous loop and larks head it to both the turtle and the two dog bones.

    As far as bridge hammocks in general, they do put more tension force on the suspension (and therefore turtle) than a typical gathered end hammock. As a point of reference, I'm a bit under 200 lbs and I use them on my Ridge Runner without the extra flipper lock. But it I were much heavier I would be doing extra wraps.
    Inventor of Turtle Ties
    Founder of Fugal Innovations, LLC
    fugal-innovations.com

  9. #9
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    I just recieved my Turtle Ties today (along with the fantastic Bridge Buttons). I've used a larks head for each of the dog bones on my Ridge Runner, one going one way through the main hole and the other one going the other way, so that there is enough room for the continuous loop from my buckles to go through the main hole and around the head of the turtle. This seems to work well.

    Having these made it really easy to install my Spindrift Sock, and should be handy for when it's been raining for a while and I want store my suspension seperate from my hammock.

    PhotoGrid_1634000572509.jpg

  10. #10
    Senior Member jadekayak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    Initially there were questions about using the “horns” on the Turtle ties for .

    What "horns.

    Ive never seen any orns on these things.

    Feet flippers and upper flippers and a head is all that protrudes on this device.

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