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  1. #1
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    Question Continuous loop splice types

    Good day!

    I was hoping to pick everyone's brain about some of the various splices used to create Amsteel continuous loops.

    I've been hammocking for more than a decade and a half but just recently found this amazing forum!

    Over the years I've bought suspension systems and continuous loops for various places. I've also made my own. I've also seen many YouTube videos how them. I've seen 3 main ways Amsteel continuous loops have been spliced. I've also seen conflicting information about what to call each type of splice.

    So my question for you awesome people today to, what are the names of the 3 types of splices seen below?

    Splice1.jpg Splice2.jpg splice3.jpg

    I've spliced these only for demonstration, I left them loose in order to better see the technique.

    I'd also like to know what spice people prefer and use in their own suspension systems?

    And had anyone ever had any of these splice types fail on them? (not theoretically)

    Thank in advance!

    Nick
    Last edited by Cdn_Nick; 03-17-2021 at 11:24.

  2. #2
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    As far as I know, #2 is called a locked Brummel splice, and is what I use. Or rather I think what you've shown is a variation of it, because in the version I'm familiar with, the tails double back in the direction they came from. Step by step (and other info about it) shown here:
    https://www.animatedknots.com/grog-sling-knot

    There have been reported failures using style #1
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ntinuous-loops

    Theoretical here, but I would think style #3 would be as or more prone to this type of failure as #1. I haven't actually seen this method used.
    Last edited by cmc4free; 03-17-2021 at 12:24.

  3. #3
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    Can_Nick, I see this is your second post; welcome to the forum. There is a forth style not represented. You weave like Splice #2 but turn the line back on itself, the blue is buried in the blue, the yellow is buried in the yellow. That creates a small “bead” at the connection point. I’ll call it Splice #2b

    There’s a YouTube video out there comparing Splice #2 with what I described above. Spice #1 is not used because there is nothing keeping the line from sliding out should the weave loosen - which it might do just sitting around with no tension on it. Splice #3 is not used because it is more work and can result in fiber against fiber rubbing/friction. Plus the small loops could catch on something.

    The video discussing the merits of Splice #2 and what I described as Splice #2b. The main concern with splice #2 as is, is it could also loosen and something could catch the buried cord at the junction and pull it out. Those scenarios seem only demonstrable “in the lab”. Like if you put a loop on something with a half-hitch and make sure the connection point is part of the half-hitch (garth hitch?), that connection point is not exposed “to the wild”. I recall the report said most commercial loops on hammocks and such use the Splice#2b style because it eliminates the possibility of something catching the line and pulling it apart (keeping the legal team happy) and uses a little less Amsteel. I’m not sure how that “little less” measured out but if you were making a LOT of loops, the small difference could add up.

    After all that, I see you were asking for their names. If you Google Locked Brummel Continous Loop YouTube, you’ll see lots of examples and somewhere in there you’ll find an answer. If you are lucky, or someone includes the URL in their post, you’ll find the video that describes the difference between your Splice #2 and what I’m calling Splice #2b (that you don’t show).
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  4. #4
    silentorpheus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougarmeat View Post
    If you are lucky, or someone includes the URL in their post, you’ll find the video that describes the difference between your Splice #2 and what I’m calling Splice #2b (that you don’t show).
    I think this is the link you're referring to:

    https://youtu.be/QSyLAO92iHs

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4free View Post
    As far as I know, #2 is called a locked Brummel splice, and is what I use. Or rather I think what you've shown is a variation of it, because in the version I'm familiar with, the tails double back in the direction they came from. Step by step (and other info about it) shown here:
    https://www.animatedknots.com/grog-sling-knot

    There have been reported failures using style #1
    https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...ntinuous-loops

    Theoretical here, but I would think style #3 would be as or more prone to this type of failure as #1. I haven't actually seen this method used.
    Thanks!!

    Yah Splice #3 is a locked brummel, but the angle i took the picture at makes it look like its just two loops hooked through each other.

  6. #6
    cmc4free's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cdn_Nick View Post
    Thanks!!

    Yah Splice #3 is a locked brummel, but the angle i took the picture at makes it look like its just two loops hooked through each other.
    Indeed! That's what I thought it was.

  7. #7
    Senior Member cmoulder's Avatar
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    recall the report said most commercial loops on hammocks and such use the Splice#2b style because it eliminates the possibility of something catching the line and pulling it apart (keeping the legal team happy) and uses a little less Amsteel.
    I don't know what the real reason might be although it might well involve your guess that it uses less material, and I'd add mine that it's less work and quicker, the other big factors where large scale production is involved. One thing we know is that people have had commercially made #2b CLs fail on them. Probably insufficient bury, but who knows?

    We've seen that argument that #2 buries could be pulled out, but I'd be comfortable saying that if the crossover point is larksheaded inside the channel of a GE hammock that there's no scenario in the Known and Unknown Universes whereby that splice is going to separate.
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  8. #8
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    First off: Welcome to the boards, Cdn_Nick
    AFIK
    # 1 is called a long bury splice. It's strong, but you need to stitch the bury to keep the splice from sliding apart without tension. Amsteel is extraordinarily slippery and I wouldn't trust this splice: I haven't seen it used in amsteel, but I've seen it slip apart in nylon braided line

    #2 is a Brummel splice. It's the splice I prefer. Doesn't slip like #1 or weaken the line nearly as badly #3.

    #3 looks like a variation on two interlocked Brummel eye splices, but I think you're saying it's a version of the Brummel where the blue line and yellow lines interact but each gets buried back into itself. It will hold well, but it weakens amsteel significantly.

    Amsteel is strongest in straight lines. The tighter the turn, the more it weakens the line, and the 180 turn in #3 creates a real weak spot. In the real world, amsteel has more than enough safety margin to handle any weakening from #3.

  9. #9
    Senior Member rweb82's Avatar
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    I remember seeing Jeff Myers post or do a video on the pros/cons between the straight bury vs locked brummel. He pointed out that a straight bury is the stronger of the two, and that the potential issue for it to come undone is essentially nonexistent, due to the small circumference of CLs along with using a bury of adequate length. As long as each bury is long enough, no matter how the CL is positioned through the hammock end channel- or which direction it is pulled, it will always pinch on a section of the bury- preventing any slippage from happening.

    I've used the straight bury splice on CLs, and have had no issues whatsoever. I believe the main reason why cottage vendors use the locked brummel method is because it requires less material. And for the record, the locked brummel is plenty strong for hammock applications.
    Last edited by rweb82; 03-18-2021 at 13:46.

  10. #10
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    No. 1 is indeed a long or straight splice.

    The part that looks like a Locked Brummel in No. 2 really isn't locked at all! You can pull it apart easily before the buries are done. All of the strength comes from the buries. Compare that to a true Locked Brummel as it's used in a spliced eye where it cannot slip at all, even before doing the bury. (That said, the strength of the loop still depends on the bury.)

    No. 1 is actually a bit stronger than No. 2, thereby being the strongest of the three. It can be secured with a locking stitch and then becomes quite secure. No. 3 is adequately strong and will not slip. I stress adequately because, as it turns out, it is probably the weakest of the three. It's the fact that it won't slip that makes it particularly appealing.

    BTW, with No.1, only one of the buries has to be relatively long. The other one can be quite short. That makes it possible to make smaller CLs.

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