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  1. #11
    cougarmeat's Avatar
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    Aug 2012
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    Bend, OR
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    If you want to keep your splt ridge line and you find the lines are long enough to go around the tree and back to the tarp, then you could put a figure-9 on a split ring on the ridgeline D-Ring. Just go around the tree and hook off on the figure-9. You could also attach that figure-9 to the ridgeline cord with some prusik (and usually smaller cord than that used for the ridgeline) and slide it where it works best for you.

    I do appreciate Dutchware hardware and there are many “toys/bling” that will work in place of a figure-9. But looking more toward economy instead of weight, you could use REI utility cord for the ridgeline and the figure=9 works with the larger (like 2.5-3mm instead of 1.75 - 2mm) cord.

    If you are into the light stuff and use tiny dynema for ridgeline, a Dutchware wasp at each end is large enough to not be too fussy and easier than smaller stuff to slide where you want it on the cord. If you use a Wasp, remember to lock the cord on the “tail” so it doesn’t slide once you have it where you want.
    In order to see what few have seen, you must go where few have gone. And DO what few have done.

  2. #12
    Senior Member
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    Dec 2016
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    Portland, OR
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    Here's a completely different method that might save knots, time, and annoyance, depending on what other factors are involved:

    I attach the tarp directly to the hammock suspension.

    I put up regular poly webbing straps around each tree for the hammock suspension (nothing unusual). I carry two fixed loops of paracord that i wrap onto the hammock suspension using easy klemheist or prussik knot. Then my tarp clips onto those loops using any mini biner you like (the cheapos for your key rings work fine).

    Using this method, pros and cons:

    Pro: no going around the tree with another set of lines (which also means you don't need to carry them)
    Pro: tarp lines don't interfere with hammock lines.
    Pro: super easy setup. slide and adjust afterward.
    Con: moves when hammock moves, so it helps if you have self-adjusting guylines.
    Con: some weird situations may still require separate lines.

  3. #13
    New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
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    24
    Mini-biner on one end of the tarp ridgeline and a tarp tick on the other is what works for me.

    https://www.warbonnetoutdoors.com/product/tarp-tick/

    A9BC9606-11AD-4301-860C-1EEFDC9FBA9A.jpeg

  4. #14
    Senior Member 1-Hung-Low's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    Hammock
    WB--Dutch-Clark-Amok
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    WB-CC-UGQ-Amok
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    Down and Synthetic
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    CL/Becket~LA/ 7/64
    Posts
    426
    30’ CRL: Fixed Loop Alien on one end, sliding Loop Alien on other end, Nama Claws in the middle.
    No knots, easy quick setup and very easy to adjust tarp to center

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_My...ature=emb_logo
    Livin’ Large ~ Horizontally

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Jun 2015
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    MN
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1-Hung-Low View Post
    30’ CRL: Fixed Loop Alien on one end, sliding Loop Alien on other end, Nama Claws in the middle.
    No knots, easy quick setup and very easy to adjust tarp to center
    I like this basic technique for hanging a tarp. The line goes up first nice and snug. Then the tarp is attached and centered. Many possibilities as to which bits of hardware you use to get the job done.

  6. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Chautauqua Lake, NY
    Hammock
    WBBB DL + 7 others
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    Loop Aliens using Jeff Myers' loop alien threadings, superceding the earlier traditional alien threadings. I use LAs for all tarp hookups and guylines today. And some hammock ridgelines. Also monster farm tarps and all guylines on my 100 foot square summer screen house camp. Also my Dynaglide clothesline on one end, still going strong 3 years now. I hang some heavy stuff on that.

    I have over a dozen official original Loop Aliens, both aluminum and titanium, plus more of the cheap stainless steel knockoffs from ebay which handle extreme loads. Search the forum here for earlier video demos pulling the stainless ones with pro winches with gauges showing the pounds/kilos they handle. I think Gadget did some of the pull tests.

    They never fail me regardless of wind or weather or snow using Myers'. Can tighten or loosen a line in under five seconds, even in the dark or heavy wind and rain.

    Jeff's better methods of line threading LAs on youtube.

    Loop Aliens at their best part 1, twin lines at ridge line
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySlIiNLg9L4
    Also watch parts 2, 3, and 4 showing other hookups.

    Judge for yourself.

    Hope this helps.

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    MN
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    Maybe it's trivial, but I'm not keen on having the RL sawing against itself at the LA if you're going for a 3:1 pull. This can be minimized by pulling it tight before starting the wrap(s) but you lose that bit of leverage. And, of course, passing the bight through the middle is eliminated if you use UFAs.

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Chautauqua Lake, NY
    Hammock
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    Quote Originally Posted by TominMN View Post
    Maybe it's trivial, but I'm not keen on having the RL sawing against itself at the LA if you're going for a 3:1 pull. This can be minimized by pulling it tight before starting the wrap(s) but you lose that bit of leverage. And, of course, passing the bight through the middle is eliminated if you use UFAs.
    As always, try it and see. No problems ever, here, on the lines. Maybe with silk or cotton cord.

  9. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    old dirt
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    444
    Quote Originally Posted by leiavoia View Post
    Here's a completely different method that might save knots, time, and annoyance, depending on what other factors are involved:

    I attach the tarp directly to the hammock suspension.

    I put up regular poly webbing straps around each tree for the hammock suspension (nothing unusual). I carry two fixed loops of paracord that i wrap onto the hammock suspension using easy klemheist or prussik knot. Then my tarp clips onto those loops using any mini biner you like (the cheapos for your key rings work fine).

    Using this method, pros and cons:

    Pro: no going around the tree with another set of lines (which also means you don't need to carry them)
    Pro: tarp lines don't interfere with hammock lines.
    Pro: super easy setup. slide and adjust afterward.
    Con: moves when hammock moves, so it helps if you have self-adjusting guylines.
    Con: some weird situations may still require separate lines.
    that's more or less what i did before starting work on the "better treestraps" i described here (actually i should say tree huggers i guess; you might find that thread interesting btw, as you're clearly on your way there). what you describe is not just a great way, but imho it's the "proper" way to rigup the tarp for a hammock. and even with this setup (meaning regular tree huggers, not the "improved" ones i designed), the tarp can be independent from the hammock movement: after all is setup, before final tightening, just slide that friction hitch on the treestrap until it touches the tree, and basically no movement will be transmitted between tarp and hammock. the only notable issue is it's a bit annoying to setup the tarp before the hammock, as the main strap is not loaded by the hammock while setting up the tarp; but it's not a big deal, and it has so many advantages it's hard to argue with it.

    ah, btw, whenever i present this, i keep hearing "but the tarp would be too high for strom mode". the hammock is attached in the same place, the same way the hammock is so low, the tarp can be too, it's best that the tarp starts high and then is pulled down low, for best strength and wind resistance, anyway (a horizontal ridgeline requires much more tension to sustain the same load if it's straight than if it's bent at 30deg following the hammock suspension, same physics apply as for the hammock)

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