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  1. #21
    Senior Member
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    Thanks, thats sounds great with the 1x25mm and 3 x 22mm I diid try the 22mm inside the 25mm at the merchants and it was a good non sloppy fit, perfect,the reason I was going to use 22mm inside 25mm with a pin lock was so they dont fall apart when I am putting it all together

  2. #22
    Member
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    Aug 2020
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    Montreal, Canada
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    As for maybe not wanting to do Amsteel, there isn't really much to worry about with that in my experience. I used Amsteel for quite some time while either not having a proper solution for the bore hole edges or suboptimal ones and nothing bad happened. Bad things did happen with regular para cord (i.e. it was ripped to shreds in no time).

    I now have this: https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...=1#post2041096 and you can see in other threads on here where people use copper tube and such.

  3. #23
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    Thanks for all your replies, will get cracking on it during our third lockdown which is on at the moment

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff-oh View Post
    I am assuming the 25mm has a wall thickness of 1.6mm (ID ~22.4) for a 2mm radial clearance. That will make a nice fitting join with little play and would only need 12.5 to 15 cm of overlap (min) could go deeper but may not be necessary. But play around with the fit to make sure to lessen any side to side play.

    Here's a thought. Purchase
    25mm :Qty 1
    22mm: Qty 3

    Cut 25mm into 1/4 = 93.75 cm: Yield 4
    Cut 22mm into 1/3 = 125 cm: Yield 9

    Assemble 22 - 25 - 22. Gives 4 poles with total length of just over 3m using a 20cm over lap. Could also cut the 22mm to 107cm and have a 13cm joint. This would make the poles closer in overall length dis- assembled. Or cut all at 93.75 cm for an assembled pole length of 2.56m w/ 12.5cm overlap. This would only require 1x25mm and 2x22mm or 3 poles total.

    Also I'd suggest not using the pin lock. Run a bolt or use steel rivets to make a stop. This has 2 advantages. 1: it allows the torsional relief at the assembly joint. 2: it allows quick assembly and disassembly without messing with fasteners. (structure is under compression so it ill not come apart in use). Also allows for pinning/bolting the Vertexes for ease of building and disassembled pole management.

    Engineering wise, the 3 section design is better as it allows for the poles to be shorter for storage and transport, and it moves the joint (the weak point) away from the highest stressed area (the middle) for an overall stronger design.

    I am assuming the 25mm has a wall thickness of 1.6mm (ID ~22.4) for a 2mm radial clearance. That will make a nice fitting join with little play and would only need 12.5 to 15 cm of overlap (min). But play around with the fit to make sure to lessen any side to side play.

    Without doing the calculations I looks that this would have be capable of holding 150kg with margin.
    H
    I think I am def going to build the three joint set up and use long 10ft poles as well to give me plenty of room inside of it for back garden use, I weigh about 90kg so I think the weight restraints should be ok for me, not that I would know how to calculate the stress limits anyway, until I fell on the floor, It would be nice to know though , presume the stress is vertical and not horizontal and the joints being the weakest point, I have heard of failures on these sections so I am conscious of getting it right, let you know the results


    David
    Last edited by hangerdave; 01-24-2021 at 03:19.

  5. #25
    New Member
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    Jan 2021
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    Austin, Tx
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    Kammock roo double, Soco single
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shug View Post
    The Tensa comes with a head-tether now...so just use that and you will not mousetrap.
    Yes, I tried a taco.

    scared me a bit at first sight i thought your head was cut off
    scared me a bit at first sight i thought your head was cut off

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