Proper UCR orientation

[cody642]

I'm looking for advice related to the orientation of a UCR in hammock suspension setups.

I've recently constructed some UCR for hammock camping. I reviewed quite a few UCR fabrication tutorials and settled on Jeff Myers (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAZ...40L-mYuZrMfhEg) UCR example (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryrXxv7XuBU). Thank you for the instruction Jeff! I'll illustrate the orientation using the components in Jeff's example as follows:
fixed loop of main line --- half turn of shuttle === fixed loop of shuttle --- tail of main line

So, the two possible orientations are:
(tree)fixed loop of main line --- half turn of shuttle === (hammock)fixed loop of shuttle --- tail of main line
... or
(hammock)fixed loop of main line --- half turn of shuttle === (tree)fixed loop of shuttle --- tail of main line

Some of the UCR use examples I've found demonstrate attaching the fixed loop end of main line to the hammock end while others demonstrate attaching this loop to the tree strap.

main line attached to tree end, shuttle attached to hammock end:

https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...-ropes-(UCR-s)
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...To-Make-an-UCR
https://youtu.be/FFhLok3VSz0?t=66 (@ 1:06)
https://youtu.be/NCfrUw3Avf0?t=162 (@ 2:42)

main line attached to hammock end, shuttle attached to tree strap:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBiGD--SOFg
https://youtu.be/Yw6P3pHt8KI?t=377 (@ 6:17)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYPTVzpu1h8
https://youtu.be/W-_qsRXXLsU?t=757 (@ 12:37)

I'm going to try both orientations to see which works best from my own experience, but I'd love to have the benefit of the expertise of those that have tested both or strongly suggest one method over the other. I've also started to think about pros and cons of each.

So...
Which orientation (if either) is the correct orientation?
Why is one orientation better (if either) than the other?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

--
624 625 626

Cody

[cmoulder]

I don't use UCRs although I've made a few.

I'd do it the way Myers does it, especially the trick he uses to maintain tension in the unloaded end of the shuttle. Link to 10:58 in the video.

If ever yer gunna get dumped from a hammock, a badly made UCR is a prime suspect.

[Shug]

For mine I need a little tension knot. Maybe my video will give some insight.
Shug

[nanok]

edit: first of all, welcome to the forum, and nice to see somebody actually doing research and stating their question clearly, much appreciated. cracking first post

as you already see above, ucr is not for everybody (it's not exactly fool proof, so beware. this might be important for instance when you're setting up camp after a long hike, and are really tired, must make sure you are very familiar with your setup before going out, more so with UCR than other solutions i'd say).

i prefer to attach them to the hammock end, so that i have the adjustable end next to the hammock. this might seem irrelevant to people who talk about "the ideal distance between trees", but i don't always have so much choice, and if you know what you're doing, 20ft is quite ideal , that's the nice thing about ucr's: you can have very long suspension for next to no weight, and not too expensive (when you're going into the 20-30ft/10m range and beyond, whoopie slings get to feel a lil bit pricey, though the weight penalty with dyneema is always "meh, whatever").

there's one main disadvantage to keep in mind with having it next to the hammock: this means the free end of the ucr is up, and the fixed loop end is on the hammock. that means that, if somebody, by mistake of course, trips and grabs the line (especially while you're in the hammock, but even when you're not), and their hand slides along the line (which will happen with dyneema), this will release the constrictor section make the ucr slide and most likely damage or at least inconvenience your behind on the way down, and most likely damage the dyneema (by melting it). that is a simple and seemingly innocent event, which can result in a bit too much outcome. i've been thinking about how to solve this but don't have a final solution yet, i'm not in a hurry as this hasn't happened yet, but i see how it might. i discarded the barbed wire idea for now, seeing how it somewhat defeats the weight savings of the dyneema. i haven't yet completely ruled out the high voltage perimeter fence though, i just need to work out where to source some super caps and.. nevermind.

(half) joke aside, apart from ergonomics and interesting paranoid considerations, there's not much difference between one way and the other, so try both and see what you like. another thing some people do, i heard, is hang their boots or something on the free tail of the ucr, in which case having the ucr at the treestraps would be the way. i would say don't bother with that though, and use a friction hitch of some sort (some report good success with a larkshead or half turn or something like that, it depends on the dyneema and how it is woven, best test it and see for yourself); a friction hitch will be self contained and will work in any orientation or conditions.

i'm still considering a combination of whoopie slings and extensions to see if i like it better, due to the issues with the ucr, but i honestly find the ucr much more ellegant as a solution somehow, so i keep coming back to them.

[Phantom Grappler]

See post #8 in another thread Splicing Amsteel
I believe I’ve solved this and prevented possibility of UCR slipping more than one inch.

I can be wrong
I guess a lot
And I have Zero experience with UCR
I hope this helps rather than adding to confusion
Best of luck
If I had a UCR slip, but did not want to use slip knot or marlin spike hitch, when I got back home, I’d re-splice UCR to form a longer bury and also add more wraps-loops to prusik loop.

[Phantom Grappler]

A nifty tip for all my knot friends
How to Really tighten prusik loop

For 2.2 Zingit on 2.2 Zingit (I know better to have prusik smaller diameter cord than standing part or straight cord)
I use 5 or 6 wraps this gives 10 or 12 coils. I don’t use three wraps. Three wraps are weak—not enough friction
I horseshoe the straight cord into a hairpin turn exactly on prusik. Then I pull prusik loop as hard as my short stubby fingers can pull. Then I “dress” or compact the coils into the horseshoe bend. Then pulling again on both the horseshoe bend from both ends (close to prusik) while simultaneously pulling with all my might on prusik loop whilst saying **** real loud. Then I straighten inner cord or horseshoe-standing part.
And give prusik a final pull on straight cord along its length (not at 90* angle to straight cord)

It’s going nowhere

If you do it this way, rather than a three wrap prusik tightened with a simple ineffectual pull, then it will hold under most circumstances for your tarp lines.

[Phantom Grappler]

Another way to get UCR to be more resistant to slipping-failing-falling-dropping you onto forest floor. Try this: outer bury or sleeve made with 7/64 amsteel and inner bury made with 1/8 amsteel. This will grip much better with same length bury.
Your Mileage May Vary YMMV
Best of luck, free thinkers

[cmoulder]

A nifty tip for all my knot friends
How to Really tighten prusik loop

For 2.2 Zingit on 2.2 Zingit (I know better to have prusik smaller diameter cord than standing part or straight cord)
I use 5 or 6 wraps this gives 10 or 12 coils. I don’t use three wraps. Three wraps are weak—not enough friction
I horseshoe the straight cord into a hairpin turn exactly on prusik. Then I pull prusik loop as hard as my short stubby fingers can pull. Then I “dress” or compact the coils into the horseshoe bend. Then pulling again on both the horseshoe bend from both ends (close to prusik) while simultaneously pulling with all my might on prusik loop whilst saying **** real loud. Then I straighten inner cord or horseshoe-standing part.
And give prusik a final pull on straight cord along its length (not at 90* angle to straight cord)

It’s going nowhere

If you do it this way, rather than a three wrap prusik tightened with a simple ineffectual pull, then it will hold under most circumstances for your tarp lines.

From one Apprentice Knot-haid to a Master Knot-haid() .... I played around with this and found that although all the extra wraps with Zing-it Prusiks do indeed provide sufficient grip, it can also be pretty darn hard to get them to release whilst saying **** quite loudly.

I have found that some sort of braided polyester cord (Atwood Tactical cord, Glowire, Triptease, etc) for the Prusik will hold fine with Zing-it.

[Phantom Grappler]

You are just as good at knots as I am—
You are just more modest and do not have multiple posts
Shut up Phantom!

Way I loosen a prusik is to break back that middle bar and push the two parallel cords into the knot.
And I keep unwinding the middle bar, loosening prusik from both ends. Then once both “ends” have been loosened, I squeeze prusik between thumb and fingers. This loosens prusik even more. To slide prusik, (don’t pull prusik it will regrip) instead push prusik down line from outside edge of prusik

Jeff Myers of Myers Tech has a video showing a prusik with a continuous pull loop incorporated into prusik. Can have either a spliced or knotted continuous pull loop.
It works pretty good at moving a tight prusik on tarp line.

My most sincere apologies for high jacking this thread
Ttttttssssssooooorrrry Dxxxxx!

Moderators, we love you, do what you got to do.
My cursive writing is for general entertainment and not meant to hurt anyone
Thank Wooooooo

[cmoulder]

LOL well anybody that can tie a diamond or button knot from memory is waaayyy ahead of me!

One way I handled that unloaded end of the UCR was with a Prusik made with Atwood Micro cord (1.2mm) which has excellent grip with only 2 wraps. As you mentioned earlier, smaller cord being the key... and also it's polyester so better grip.

ucr_prusik_small.jpg

Many ways to skin this kitty.