I can't find anything regarding how to pitch a taut catenary cut tarp using Google, so I've come here for answers. I have a Kelty Noah 12' tarp. I understand that catenary cuts are ideal for diamond pitches, but I can't for the life of me get a tight pitch by just using the four corners.
So, how do I start a new conversation about this? Thanx in advance.
Cat cuts do generally help with keeping a taught pitch by eliminating the mid fabric that would often be left floppy but it shouldn't take any special knowledge to set up vs a flat tarp. I recommend just going out and setting it up until it becomes easier, it can take a little trial and error to get the hang of. Does your tarp have a rolled or a grosgrain type hem on the perimeter? in my experience tarps with a grosgrain hem all the way around never pitch as taught as those with a rolled hem. Also, what are you using for a ridgeline?
Edit: Maybe try using a auto tensioners on your guylines if you're not already, it can make it a little easier to get things taught with them than a static line sometimes, it'll also help keep your tarp from sagging after you have it set up. I like to run a 10" piece of 1/8" reflective shock cord through the tie out ring on my tarp, stretch it as far as it will go, then clove hitch the ends together with my guyline where it ends fully stretched. There are many ways of doing this however and this is just my preferred method for several reasons.
Last edited by Rusty Shackelford; 11-17-2020 at 11:44.
Ironic that you started a thread called "How do I start a thread?" lol
Just poking fun... you got that part figured out at least!
Welcome to the forum. Introduce yourself here if you want.
Your question would be better served by creating a thread in the Weather Protection subforum.
https://www.hammockforums.net/forum/...her-Protection
Welcome to the forum- and like CMC4Free mentioned.... congrats on starting a thread
Since we're here- I don't own one but it is a popular tarp.
Since it is designed to be used in a diamond pitch, IF it has a cat cut it would be along that seam.
So when used in an A frame mode you're working against that cat cut and/or wouldn't have a cat cut ridgeline to help you reduce the sag in the RL itself.
Likely that is the issue you're dealing with. Looking at the website just to refresh my memory I saw this comment:
"Noah's Tarp 12
I have really enjoyed experimenting with this tarp in a base camp setting over the course of the summer. The many guyout points allow for lots of different setup options and the included guylines make it easy to secure the corners. The catenary cuts make it a bit challenging to get the entire tarp taught in certain configurations but I am very happy with the design overall."
If this is your issue:
After you have the ridgeline up-
It might be helpful to guy out the two corners that are on the RL seams first.
From there you may want to split the line and tie off to two points running to a single stake.
Either use the corner plus the adjoining tie out along the baseline edge, or use the tie out to either side of the corner. This will alter your pull against the cat cut RL to help reduce that pucker that forms.
Generally-
A cat cut tarp is ideal when used in the configuration it was made for, not so much though when used in other pitches.
A flat tarp (no cat cuts) is much more versatile to use, but if it is a larger tarp you will always get sag in the RL, especially in a diamond pitch.
One other option- You can use the Noah in diamond mode, but use the two adjoining tie outs rather than the corner of the RL to reduce the overall length of the tarp. This is a good method if trees are tight and works best if you use a found stick as a spreader bar at each end.
I HAVE been configuring it in a diamond layout. I run it corner to corner across a good 550 cord. Tried it on a stiff ridgeline, a slack ridgeline (for a concave center), and everything in between. I, of course, use tensioners- didn't think anyone did it without. I believe it's a flat double stitch, not a rolled hem. I don't believe I SHOULD have to use more than four tie-off points for a reasonably good pitch. As stated, catenary cuts are supposed to be suited for just this sort of minimal set-up. Am I wrong?
Also, I'm unsure of how exactly you are suggesting using the spreader bars. Can you provide me a picture for reference?
Also, this is my second Noah 12' tarp. I got the new version after a tree fell on my last one- same issue.
Should have quoted to begin with. New to this- is the quote thingy supposed to get your attention. Or do get notified regardless? Jesus. I'm gonna end up making a mess of this thread. Lol.Originally Posted by Just Bill
Welcome to the forum- and like CMC4Free mentioned.... congrats on starting a thread
Since we're here- I don't own one but it is a popular tarp.
Since it is designed to be used in a diamond pitch, IF it has a cat cut it would be along that seam.
So when used in an A frame mode you're working against that cat cut and/or wouldn't have a cat cut ridgeline to help you reduce the sag in the RL itself.
Likely that is the issue you're dealing with. Looking at the website just to refresh my memory I saw this comment:
"Noah's Tarp 12
I have really enjoyed experimenting with this tarp in a base camp setting over the course of the summer. The many guyout points allow for lots of different setup options and the included guylines make it easy to secure the corners. The catenary cuts make it a bit challenging to get the entire tarp taught in certain configurations but I am very happy with the design overall."
If this is your issue:
After you have the ridgeline up-
It might be helpful to guy out the two corners that are on the RL seams first.
From there you may want to split the line and tie off to two points running to a single stake.
Either use the corner plus the adjoining tie out along the baseline edge, or use the tie out to either side of the corner. This will alter your pull against the cat cut RL to help reduce that pucker that forms.
Generally-
A cat cut tarp is ideal when used in the configuration it was made for, not so much though when used in other pitches.
A flat tarp (no cat cuts) is much more versatile to use, but if it is a larger tarp you will always get sag in the RL, especially in a diamond pitch.
One other option- You can use the Noah in diamond mode, but use the two adjoining tie outs rather than the corner of the RL to reduce the overall length of the tarp. This is a good method if trees are tight and works best if you use a found stick as a spreader bar at each end.
I highly suggest using a cord with less stretch than 550, esp if you're weight conscientious. I suggest using something made from UHMWPE like Zing-It or Reflect-It. I have heard good things about Lawson's GloWire but haven't tried it, Zpacks has some popular cord called Z-Line which is braided polyester with a Dyneema core which I also have no experience with. There are many options out there for lightweight low stretch lines out there. I like to use 1.8mm Reflect-It for my guy lines and 1.75mm Zing-It for my ridge line because I use Dutch Stingerz and the Zing-It seems more durable for use with hardware imo and having a reflective ridge line is not important to me.
I appreciate the thoughtful reply. So, you're suggesting that perhaps the drag on the ridge line is preventing the sides from drawing tight? Is this your experience with catenary cut tarps?
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