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  1. #1
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    JRB BEAR MOUNTAIN BRIDGE HAMMOCK QUESTION

    Hey guys, im playing around with a bridge hammock diy idea , and would like to start out by looking at specs of existing hammocks. If any one has a jrb bear mountain bridge, I would like to know the dimensions of the hammock bed (including the narrowest part ) and the spreader bar lengths. (not looking to make a clone, but was curious about about what others have done before I go off on my own) Thanks!
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  2. #2
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    There are 2 JRB BMBHs. One is called the UL, and is single layer and shallower than the original. I have both, but can not conveniently set them up to measure the fabric right now.

    The "UL" spreader bars are 32". with about a 1/2" deep notch on EACH end for the rings to fit into, for an effective width of 31" . The original(which I think is he same dimensions as the one they now call the Deluxe) bars are 31.25" wide, including slots for the rings that are about 3/4" deep, so effective width of just a bit less than 30".

    Then there is the newest model, the James river. Those bars are 36.25" on the head end, and 32.25 on the foot end, plus a bit of nipple that sticks out further to fit into receptacles on the hammock suspension. The web site says it is 36" wide by 81" long, but does not give fabric width, which will determine depth. Seems to me the depth is somewhere between the original/Deluxe and the UL.
    Last edited by BillyBob58; 09-25-2020 at 20:39.

  3. #3
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info billy bob! At 240 lbs and 6'4' im probably right on the edge of the weight limit and comfort limit. So.... on the original bmbh, are the foot and head spreader bars the same length? What im trying to do is come up with a hammock solution so i can sleep on my side comfortably. I read a post a while back- some one said the bmbh was great for side sleeping due to the high sides / deep hammock body. Not sure if that would help or not.
    Last edited by stevebo; 09-25-2020 at 14:11.
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  4. #4
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    061D73C8-DFEB-4340-B0C5-CB248DDB1252.jpegYou can find a pretty good pattern on Utube by Bic
    I took his measurements and added some length and width. My pattern take 38 to 40” spreader bars with great results
    Last edited by Redfish; 09-25-2020 at 21:22.

  5. #5
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevebo View Post
    Thanks for the info billy bob! At 240 lbs and 6'4' im probably right on the edge of the weight limit and comfort limit. So.... on the original bmbh, are the foot and head spreader bars the same length? What im trying to do is come up with a hammock solution so i can sleep on my side comfortably. I read a post a while back- some one said the bmbh was great for side sleeping due to the high sides / deep hammock body. Not sure if that would help or not.
    The bars on the original(which I think is the same as the Deluxe except the original had a removable Velcro bug net) and on the 2nd model called the UL, the bars are the same width head and foot. On the James River, the head end bars are wider than the foot end. ( as I think it is on the WBRR?)

    The original BMBH was deeper and narrower than the following models and the WBRR. A lot of folks didn't like that, but after some learning curve and coming to appreciate the relative pros and cons, I decided I liked it about as well as any of the others. The deeper sides had pros and cons. I have had many great nights sleep in it, summer/winter, with an UQ or a pad. Many complained of the shoulder squeeze, and so did I at first. But I finally realized that if I simply crossed my arms over my torso, I had no true squeeze, and was very comfy overall. No knee extension, NO calf ridge, and with a nice pillow it was pretty much like laying in my bed. Using a JRB MW4 UQ simply clipped onto the hammock's UQ loops, I never, ever had any cold spots ANYWHERE, no matter how much I moved around. Just warm from head to heal. And I could sleep good that way, and have done so down to 10ºF, and many times 20 to 40.

    But, my fav in that hammock was to either move just a little on my side, or all the way, and lean back into those deep sides. This was always comfy for me with legs straight, or somewhat fetal. Because the hammock was not very wide, pulling my knees up all the way into fetal was tricky, not quite enough room. But pulling my knees up some was very workable. I could get more fetal, but it was tricky. No matter, I slept good on my side. That eep, narrow hammock was a very snug cocoon in the winter.

    If using that factory model, you would definitely be right at the limit for both height and weight. I am 6'1", an had all the room I needed. My weight has always been up and down between 200 and 226. I think 250 was the limit(EDIT: I mean the hammock's rated limit, not that I was 250), and I think the spreader bars were the limiting factor. Are you planning to build your own, an original model? If so, I will try to get the dimensions to you.

    Also, have you considered building your own in the style of Hammock Tent 90? Comfy with and without a pad, pros and cons to each, but it is truly great for side sleeping, either fetal or legs straight. The current models are only rated for 200 lbs, but of course if building your own you could use a heavier, stouter fabric. No poles needed.

    How do you think you would do side sleeping in this? A single layer JRB James River, I was playing around with my Speer SPE and CCF pad:


    ............................................
    Or this one, my old model(rated 220 lbs)Hammock Tent 90 with a NeoAir All Season in the pad pocket, with a top quilt on top of the pad just for fun and experimenting:


    .................................................. .....
    On my side, fetal position, Hammock Tent 90:
    Last edited by BillyBob58; 09-26-2020 at 14:55.

  6. #6

  7. #7
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    Steve-

    You have a Big Guy or a Luxury? If it's a Big Guy, try switching the poles. If you have a Luxury- at 240lbs you run the risk of damage to do so.
    You will get a completely different bridge with some benefits for side sleepers, in particular folks with narrow torsos and larger hips or those who prefer to sleep in the fetal position.
    Even if you are in excess of the weight limits- the ability to simply see this alternative pitch might help you visualize options.

    The other experiment you could do is to use different poles. If looking for your back to rest against the side of the bridge (via increased depth) you can try placing a shorter spreader into the head end (say 36").
    This will create a completely different bridge as well. I have a few customers who use the bridges this way, primarily as side sleepers, with some who wanted more depth/stability.

    Going further- if you pick up some wooden dowels or .75" Easton poles, you can experiment with a very large range of different bridges simply by changing the pole length in 1" increments. Once you're in the ballpark- 1/2" and even 1/4" adjustments are valid options.

    There are some basic ways to build a bridge, and some basic variables to play with to meet different goals. Each of these variations produces dramatically different results.

    I find bridges interesting in this aspect. A gathered end really only has three variables: Length, width, and sag (RL distance). You can introduce a fourth; shaping the 'blank' or basic rectangle of fabric. Examples of this would be variations of folding, tugging, or manipulating the fabric when using a whipped end method OR the more dramatic shaping of the body via cutting or curving (SLD Streamliner or Ninox). But at some point you're more or less going to produce a relatively fixed thing: a gathered end hammock. By general consensus; Length seems to be a primary variable, followed by sag. Width and shaping are tricks to cheat your way into a larger hammock with less material.

    Finally- those are 'design' variables. The fabric you use is outside those to an extent, but can't be ignored for obvious reasons. But I feel you first have to pick a design, before picking a fabric.

    Point being- you're building a huge half-pipe, or a segment of a circle. In theory and in practice- if you could build a big enough half pipe- you'd find a perfectly flat space to lay in the center. As the radius of the circle increases, relative to the human body you'd eventually find your slice of that circle you lie in could be fairly close to a straight line. We "cheat" this two dimensional segment by adding a third dimension we call 'lying on an angle'. That's why I call it a half pipe- we take this two dimensional arc and add depth via the hammock width. By rotating our body we use more of the segment to feel more 'flat'. Take that to it's extreme and you have a 90* hammock design. It's still a 'gathered end' half pipe. In real life all gathered ends are technically a 'bowl' rather than a half pipe- since the far ends are gathered to a point- but that's more technicality than practicality really.

    If all that sounds overly complicated, perhaps it is. The point though is that bridges are even more complicated and somewhat limitless in your ability to design them.

    Sermon to follow- feel free to stop here or read this if you're so inclined- https://thisgearsforyou.com/myog/
    nothing personal to follow Steve- this is general discussion now.

    I don't want to toot my own horn too hard, but I believe I have a fairly 'balanced bridge'. I often point out that the ridgerunner is a pretty good 'one size fits most' design. I like to think of the Luxury/Big Guy as an improvement on that idea. 'One size fits more' if you like. In addition to design, I also introduced variation via the adjustable RL and ends of the bridge... in this way each user can reshape the bridge slightly to meet their individual quirks. While it is 'one' design, very few folks use it in exactly the same way. While it's not a custom/bespoke bridge, it is customizable.

    I don't promote many of the more extreme alternatives to tuning it further, but above I laid out some basic ones. For example I had a user who was suffering from some circulation problems in the calves and subsequent issues with an otherwise perfect (for them) bridge. The foot end bar was reduced in length by first a half inch (close), then 3/4" (almost there), then 1" (perfect). If we'd just chopped off 2"... the calf pressure issue would have resolved but then the ankle pressure problem would have presented itself. This is an issue in that the feet are smashed together in the relatively 'V" shaped end if you go too far in that direction. In many ways when I mention 'balanced' this is both a structural and design goal. One change is always connected to another.

    I only bring this up because bridges are a rabbit hole that can turn into a death spiral of sorts. I never want to discourage DIY/MYOG as that's why I even have a bridge design to discuss. I also sell that product though... which leads me ultimately to my final point: I could build a 'perfect' bridge for one person. It would cost quite a bit of money do do so, but I feel I could do it at this point. Introduce a second person though, and we need to compromise a little. Add the third, fourth, etc... and you have to meet in the middle someplace or you will never get a product out the door. You also have to introduce a few constraints... the big one is that since we are mainly discussing camping gear... you need to be able to take it into the field. Ideally in a format that you can backpack with. Meet that goal and the paddler or motorized camper can join in the fun too.

    To an extent if you go to an extreme... a Tentsile hammock is a loose version of a bridge hammock. Grizz has built staked out corner based bridges so you didn't need the spreader bars, really the tentsile just takes that idea to it's natural conclusion. In home use you could attach to wall anchors. I play with that 'Mountain Hanger' design but at some point I feel we cross the line I defined for myself- 'backpacking gear'. At some point if we are just building a 'contraption' we don't care what that entails. Size, weight, bulk, difficulty setting up, etc. We also don't care what it costs really. But as I point out to some folks... if you are car camping or fixed camping. Other than the 'cool' factor a hammock presents... do you really need to spend $500 on a fancy bridge, plus a grand or two to trick it out with quilts/traps/etc only to more or less replicate a $150 Aerobed you can equip with blankets and a pillow from home? Pop up a tent, plug in the pump, and Bob's yer uncle camp is made.

    For some- there are dramatic and demonstrable sleep benefits to hammock use over a bed- but if we're talking a weekend out- likely you'll survive.

    Ultimately it comes down to- what is the problem?
    If there is no problem- there is nothing to solve.
    If discussing bridges in particular- I strongly suggest you 'tweak'- not sweep the table and start from scratch.
    If you simply like tinkering- no problem there per say.

    There is an overriding goal worth remembering for any outdoorsperson who is a DIY/MYOG practitioner: We make stuff to enhance our time in the woods.
    If you find you cannot enjoy your time in the woods, that is a problem worth solving by any means necessary.
    If you find the making more satisfying that is okay too I suppose. But often you will find the making of the stuff getting in the way of the time in the woods.

    At this point- calmly step away from the sewing machine, find a door leading to the out of doors, take a long walk, and diligently review your priorities.

  8. #8
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Excellent advice bill ! I will give it a try- thanks!
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  9. #9
    Senior Member stevebo's Avatar
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    Billy bob, thanks for all the great info! I was just curious, is there a sticky or a tutorial on a diy 90 degree hammock? Sounds like an interesting diy project!


    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob58 View Post
    The bars on the original(which I think is the same as the Deluxe except the original had a removable Velcro bug net) and on the 2nd model called the UL, the bars are the same width head and foot. On the James River, the head end bars are wider than the foot end. ( as I think it is on the WBRR?)

    The original BMBH was deeper and narrower than the following models and the WBRR. A lot of folks didn't like that, but after some learning curve and coming to appreciate the relative pros and cons, I decided I liked it about as well as any of the others. The deeper sides had pros and cons. I have had many great nights sleep in it, summer/winter, with an UQ or a pad. Many complained of the shoulder squeeze, and so did I at first. But I finally realized that if I simply crossed my arms over my torso, I had no true squeeze, and was very comfy overall. No knee extension, NO calf ridge, and with a nice pillow it was pretty much like laying in my bed. Using a JRB MW4 UQ simply clipped onto the hammock's UQ loops, I never, ever had any cold spots ANYWHERE, no matter how much I moved around. Just warm from head to heal. And I could sleep good that way, and have done so down to 10ºF, and many times 20 to 40.

    But, my fav in that hammock was to either move just a little on my side, or all the way, and lean back into those deep sides. This was always comfy for me with legs straight, or somewhat fetal. Because the hammock was not very wide, pulling my knees up all the way into fetal was tricky, not quite enough room. But pulling my knees up some was very workable. I could get more fetal, but it was tricky. No matter, I slept good on my side. That eep, narrow hammock was a very snug cocoon in the winter.

    If using that factory model, you would definitely be right at the limit for both height and weight. I am 6'1", an had all the room I needed. My weight has always been up and down between 200 and 226. I think 250 was the limit(EDIT: I mean the hammock's rated limit, not that I was 250), and I think the spreader bars were the limiting factor. Are you planning to build your own, an original model? If so, I will try to get the dimensions to you.

    Also, have you considered building your own in the style of Hammock Tent 90? Comfy with and without a pad, pros and cons to each, but it is truly great for side sleeping, either fetal or legs straight. The current models are only rated for 200 lbs, but of course if building your own you could use a heavier, stouter fabric. No poles needed.

    How do you think you would do side sleeping in this? A single layer JRB James River, I was playing around with my Speer SPE and CCF pad:


    ............................................
    Or this one, my old model(rated 220 lbs)Hammock Tent 90 with a NeoAir All Season in the pad pocket, with a top quilt on top of the pad just for fun and experimenting:


    .................................................. .....
    On my side, fetal position, Hammock Tent 90:
    FYI: If you want to know what type a certain bear is, sneak up behind it and kick it. Then,
    run like crazy and climb up a tree. If the bear climbs the tree and eats you, it's a black
    bear. If the bear just pushes the tree over and eats you, it's a grizzly bear : )


    Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me, either, just leave me alone.
    --unknown

  10. #10
    Senior Member BillyBob58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevebo View Post
    Billy bob, thanks for all the great info! I was just curious, is there a sticky or a tutorial on a diy 90 degree hammock? Sounds like an interesting diy project!

    Yes it does! I have been tempted to work on my DIY skills just so I could make one exactly like the HT90, except perhaps with a different material that would be rated for 400 lbs. I don't care about the few oz that would add to the weight, I'd prefer the higher weight rating. And I might make it just a few inches longer. But I'm not aware of instructions for a DIY 90.
    Last edited by BillyBob58; 09-28-2020 at 18:48.

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