Just got home after spending 3 days and 2 nights hiking around Cumberland Island with my 13-year old son. It was, as expected, hot and muggy. Essentially stayed wet with sweat the entire time. However, we had a great trip seeing almost everything the island had to offer.
Immediately after arriving at the Sea Camp dock Friday morning, we hiked down to the Dungeness ruins, site of a mansion built by Thomas Carnegie, the brother of Andrew Carnegie. On the same lot stood the Greene Cottage, which was built by the widow of Revolutionary War Gen. Nathanael Greene. In 1818, Gen. Henry “Light Horse Harry” Lee died there and was interred in a nearby cemetery for a century before his remains were exhumed and reinterred in the Lee Chapel in Lexington, VA. Besides being a renowned general during the Revolutionary War, he is best known for being the father of Civil War general Robert E. Lee and for delivering the famous eulogy of George Washington as “first in war, first in peace, first in the hearts of his countryman.” The tombstone marking his previous burial there remains in the Greene-Miller Cemetery.
We then hiked to the beach overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. On the way, we were met by a group of wild horses that are one of the most interesting features of the island. We then hiked north along the beach to the Sea Camp trail. Seeing such a beautiful beach without any people was breathtaking. Along the way, we came across numerous horseshoe crabs, shells of all shapes and sizes, and even a huge buoy that had washed ashore and was half buried in the sand.
We then made our way up to Stafford Beach campsite where we stayed the first night. Set up camp right before a thunderstorm moved through. Had a couple armadillos amble through in the rain. The next morning, we walked down to the beach and watched the sun rise over the Atlantic.
We then packed up and headed further north to the Yankee Paradise wilderness campsite where we camped the second night. The next morning (Sunday) we hiked over to Plum Orchard Manor, which was built for one of the Carnegie children. On the way, saw two curious deer and another wild horse, which just trotted harmlessly around us.
We then made the 8 mile trek back down to the Sea Camp dock where we waited for the ferry to pick us up and take us back to the mainland.
Prior to the trip, I was really worried about the bugs having heard that the mosquitoes, sand gnats, and ticks were really bad. Prepared well for that by treating our clothes with Permethetin, dousing ourselves alternatively with Ben’s bug spray and Skin So Soft for bugs. Even tried out a handheld Thermacell for camp (thanks for the tip, Shug!), and that wound up being worth its weight in gold. Had no major issues with bugs, although they were certainly there in large supply (no sand gnats though).
Not sure going in August was a great idea given the heat and humidity. But, it was well worth the trip. Can’t wait to go back.
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