I tried the snakeskins years ago,sorry,never gonna be a fan.A double ended bishop bag works for me and just seems less bulky.It's all about personal preference and pack size.I also tried a Slug Tube but as I recall it weighed about 5 ounces and although it was convenient the decision was made to ditch it along with lots of other gear I have tried....
Just got my Nama Claws and looks like they will work great except I cannot thread them through the Amstel end? The end is thicker than the middle and if I can it on, it will slid easily. Any suggestions? Also, I ran a very small piece of straw over my hooks and pushed it to the top allowing just enough room to get the tarp ring attached. I then slid down the straw to cover the hook and it should avoid the entanglement.
Just got my Nama Claws and it looks like they will work great. How did you get the Amsteel end through the runner portion of the claw? Once over, I am sure it will slide easily but the end of the amsteel is thicker than the line. Also, I have placed a small cut piece of straw over the end of the hook towards the top of the piece. I pushed it up just far enough to get my tarp attached and slid the straw back down over the hook. The ring from the tarp stops it from going down much but the straw over the hook should stop line from entangling in hook.
NamaClaws work best with line that is 1.75mm thick. The smallest Amsteel is is 2.5 mm thick and will not work without a whole lot of work. I normally use Zing It and have gotten line as thick as 2.0 mm to work.
I am still 18 but with 52 years of experience !
Five Tango, you are right about the double ended stuff sack being less bulky and I used the for years. As long as you don’t have to setup in the wind, it’s fine. I switched to snake skins because twice I had to set up in a strong breeze (breeze sounds a little too gentle). With the stuff sack, I and to expose the whole tarp to the wind in order to set the ridgeline. With the snakes skins, I can set the ridge line, then expose the tarp slowly to the wind, guying as I go. Same with putting the tarp away. It is more stuff to fiddle with, but I found it necessary given the success I had with them in situations were previously I failed.
RobertMo, I don’t think Nama Claws were ever designed for Amsteel. From their website:
*** NAMA Claws are designed for use with 1.75mm dyneema line, but will work well with line diameters ranging from 1.2mm up to 1.8mm ***
Note that 7/64th Amsteel is almost 2.8mm
Last edited by cougarmeat; 03-12-2021 at 18:44.
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Thanks for everyone’s responses. I am new so I checked and I do have 1.75 zing it from Dutch hardware. The end is braided so that is the thickest part to go through and where I am having difficulty. Really like them, especially with the hook covered.
The end has a backsplice to keep it from fraying and to keep bling from getting lost. You can cut it off and redo the backsplice after putting on the Nama Claws.
You could also smash the end in a vice, and slip it through the Nama Claw. The end will fluff back out.
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Namaclaws work best on 1.75 zing/lash-it but will work on dynaglide (2.2 iirc) but not as smoothly as on 1.75. I use a purpose built dynaglide line on my turtledog stand where the claws don't move much but would hate it as a normal ridgeline.
The best way I've found to prevent the claws tangling up on a ridgeline is to loop the line through the "hook" two or three times prior to spooling it up. This fixes the claw to a point on the line of your choosing (ie where you will be wrapping the loops with the tail of the line) and fills up the slot where the other loops get tangled allowing you to figure-8 wrap and secure the ridgeline without tangling. The only thing is that you have to remember to unhook it prior to tensioning the line between trees or you'll have to loosen it again. A bit annoying but far less than dealing with a tangled mess while the rain starts.
This little trick turned me from being lukewarm about using NamaClaws over prussic loops to ordering some claws myself and swapping out all my ridgelines.
IMG_20210313_175719358.jpg
Very nice tip! Thank you.
Find your "sweet spot" for the tarp - allow room to adjust - my ridgeline is 30' - but I tied knots behind the claws so they don't come off once I dialed in my sweet spot and then I created a noose for the line that attaches to the claw - that way the line doesn't come off the claw.
Now my whole unit stays in the snake skins and when I unfurl the tarp is ready to roll.
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