Do I Need a Continuous Ridge Line for My DCF Tarp?

**ofuros** · 07-27-2020, 03:32

It won't cost you a arm & a leg to experiment...hang your tarp with & without a Continuous Ridgeline...then make up your own mind on which you like best.

My almost 7yo DCF tarp runs a CR without issues. Tried 2 seperate lines...they work fine too. It's all about the learning & liking. Hang your own hang.

**cougarmeat** · 07-27-2020, 11:24

My first continuous ridgelines were an oval around the trees with the line on one side and tarp on the other. It allowed for easy tarp adjustment; no need to move one end and then the other; just slide the line and the whole tarp would move. But it meant the tarp would absorb part of any stress/force on that ridge line. Also, it was difficult to employ snake skins. This summer I’ve switched to a single ridge line with a tarp hanging off it (via prusiks or Nama Claws) so the tarp is like a hammock hanging below its continuous ridge line. Any force to the Line is not transferred to the tarp (unless the line breaks).

Some was worried about that line rubbing on the tarp. The tarp hangs under it. I doubt, without mechanical assistance, you could suspend the tarp tight enough that the top of the tarp would contact the ridge line. In addition to protecting your tarp from excessive stress along the ridge line, it also can be a clothesline for drying things and a support for external pole mods.

In the winter, because of potential snow load - and no rain - I might run the ridge line under the tarp for more support.

**nanok** · 08-10-2020, 04:06

Originally Posted by Baka Dasai

I like the CRL for a reason that I've never seen anybody else mention. It allows me to set my ridgeline and get it taut and positioned correctly before I take my tarp out of it's stuff sack. That's especially handy when it's windy as I don't have to deal with a madly flapping tarp while struggling to get my ridgeline around the trees and secured.

IOW, the CRL allows a two-stage process:

1. Install the ridgeline.
2. Open the tarp stuff sack and attach the tarp to the ridgeline.

yeees, exactly. besides, for the same reason above, reconfiguring from a-frame to diamond or whatever you fancy is a matter of just chosing where to attach the softshackles.

I don't use the Derek Hansen method for CRLs because it doesn't give me this advantage. I use prussiks on the ridgeline to attach the tarp to, and I don't worry about the "V". (I have tried the V, and it's neat, but ultimately it's not important.)

agreed again. in fact, it's more than "not important", it solves a problem which shouldn't be there, and creates new ones

I'm considering moving from prussiks to Nama Claws. They serve the exact same purpose, but are perhaps easier to slide along the line while being more secure in use. (They offend my "no hardware" sensibilities but maybe it's time for me to loosen up on that score.)

don't on both accounts (not just yet): it sounds to me like you might really like the strange setup i've been playing with lately, and documenting a bit here on hammock forums; i think so because it is no hardware, no prusiks (prusiks are a nice introduction to friction hitches, but that's about it; time to move on after using them a few times

), no re-tying of anything, no V _and_ no interference between suspension lines. and less load on the trees and tarp. if you want to try the whole thing, you also get to not go around the tree with the ridgeline anymore, but instead have anchor points for the ridgeline on the main treestraps themselves, and make better use of the treestraps while at it. it is a bit more of a change than switching to nama claws though (this changes, uhm, everything), but it should be fun, worth it, and, most importantly, will not offend your "no hardware sensibilities" -- no, one should never loosen up on that score, we shall die clutching a knot in our hands! i'm joking, but seriously, why waste time with hardware when you can have fun with knots. ****, that sounds even worse.

i figured out how to link videos inline, so let me show off:

this is how i attach the tarp to the ridgeline (so this would be the nama claws or prusik replacement). you can see how easy it is to move the VT knot, the funny thing is it is as easy and as fine controlled under tension too

this shows how the ridgeline is connected (using the same kind of softshackle, but this one is spliced, instead of just knots), and how easy it is to tension it with the VT

you don't actually need to use my weird treestraps to use this method, you can also do it with normal tree straps (this is how i first developed it, the treestraps are just the latest "invention")

regarding the V, the main idea of the "levitating tarp", regardless of what tensioning system you use, as long as it's a nice quick one (like my system with vt's, or linelocs or such things), you anchor the ridgeline in the same place as the hammock is anchored, at the same height, and the ridgeline comes down at an angle, anywhere between nearly horizontal and same angle as the hammock suspension (30 degrees or so, for best coverage/storm mode); this means you can adjust the position of the tarp also vertically on the fly, in a few seconds, and when the tarp is low, because of the 30 degrees angel, it's much more stable than it would usually be (as it takes a lot more force to move it vertically, given the same tension in the ridgeline, than it wold take if the ridgleine would be perpendicular to the tree)

**nanok** · 08-10-2020, 04:33

to the author of the thread: much good advice has been given already here regarding CRL vs split, but there's just one other thing i would point out: the most likely cause of overtightening the ridgeline (and thus the tieouts, especially when using a split ridgeline) is having the ridgeline nearly horizontal between the anchor points, it requires a lot more tension in the line to hold even the weight of the tarp in that position (not to mention supporting the weight of it plus the downward component of tension required to get the tarp taut), it is much much better to let the tarp suspension follow a downward slope parallel to the hammock suspension, this way the required tension will be a lot less, and the tarp will actually be more stable (it's what i jokingly called a "levitating tarp", mainly because it starts out high above the hammock ridgline, and it can be pulled to any position between that highest point and the hammock ridgline, which makes it look like it is hovering in mid air). i think this will improve the safety of your tarp and tieouts much more than a CRL (although i have to say, i like the CRL a lot for it's simplicity and versatility, and i would recommend it)

**Rex Clifton** · 08-10-2020, 09:33

I use a CRL on all of my tarps and would never go back to a two line system. One benefit not mentioned above is that it allows you to quickly lower your tarp in the event of oncoming inclement weather. Just move the prusiks or Nama claws in an inch or two to create some slack in the ridgeline then tighten the guy lines to take out the slack. No need to reposition the line on the trees, which is a real pain.

**muzbrake** · 08-17-2020, 16:04

Thanks for all of the helpful comments. I have some unused 1.75 Zing it and I plan to set up a CRL with Klemheist knots. I like the the idea of being able to use a trekking pole over the top of the RL to expand the pullouts. I also think it is easy to set up the line by itself first and then clip the tarp in without worrying about the wind or flopping the tarp on the ground. The tarp was a huge investment in gear and I'd like to keep it around as long as I can.

**cmoulder** · 08-17-2020, 17:19

Originally Posted by muzbrake

Thanks for all of the helpful comments. I have some unused 1.75 Zing it and I plan to set up a CRL with Klemheist knots. I like the the idea of being able to use a trekking pole over the top of the RL to expand the pullouts. I also think it is easy to set up the line by itself first and then clip the tarp in without worrying about the wind or flopping the tarp on the ground. The tarp was a huge investment in gear and I'd like to keep it around as long as I can.

A good cord to make the Klemheist knots with is Atwood Micro cord... it is a braided polyester 1.2mm diameter. A larger diameter polyester cord might work, but my experience with Zing-it on Zing-it has not been good for friction knots.